"Seems" like it's time for a new build....

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ReeferMaddness843

ReeferMaddness843

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@Marlon2024 , it's the back left leg that blocks the return line a bit. I'm going to bust out the sander and slim that corner down a bit. (Excuse my hole saw opening, it's all I had at home as all my tools were at the shop and I REAAAALLY didn't feel like making the trip, plus no one will ever know, except anyone on R2R that is. Lol) You may be ok given that extra 1/2" on stand dimension though. I also had to scoot the joist directly against that leg over about 2".
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Cause for concern? Looks like the trim is uneven. The stand is level and planer (wrong word I'm sure). The corner is sliiiiiightly lifted, but, when put my level on the trim, it touches corners and gaps center. This is my first large glass tank and as my acrylic tank is showing seam seperation, am I just being overly paranoid? In the pic you can see the gap on trim correlates to the gap on corner. Should I just shim the top to fit the trim or would that cause unnecessary stress on glass. Whatever the case it's all causing unnecessary stress on me. Haha
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Marlon2024

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From listening to Joey on king of diy all area of the trim should always touch the stand and there should be no high or low points or gaps. Now my question to you is the top plywood level? Is it bowed? I had an uneven stand one time and added a piece of 3/4 plywood to it but it still did not sit plum with the tank so I shimmed under the plywood and then screwed down
 
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the ply on top from side to side and front to back as well as corner to corner sits dead level. The tank also sits dead level at all angles. The gap under the tank is a reversed image of the gap under straight edge on trim. Gonna call the shop today to reassure as well. My only concern if I shim (which I'm going to probably do) is that if the silicone in the trim compresses when full, it will create a pressure point where I have shimmed. When I do shim to meet trim, it throws it off level by a small degree.
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Marlon2024

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Are you shimming under the plywood? Also is your top wood true and flat? You should place the level the longest level you have 4ft preferred or 6 and place it on each side check for a bow and place in the middle check for a hump, if there is you'll see it teeter totter it's better to have a dip then a hump on top. That's why I'm going with 1 inch plywood because usually they will be pretty straight. My stand as I have it now is not true and level. I will fix the issue today before I go any further and I will sand every corner and make sure it's all true and flat
 
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Yep. Shim under the ply. It's a 4' level. No rocking on the board. Tried a 2', a 1', and 2 different 4' levels. All come to same. Level and clean plane. Level front to back both sides. Side to side both sides level. Corner to corner diagonal level. And center level side to side and front to back. Tank top level in all said directions as well.
 

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Most if not all manufacturers recommend a 1/2 -3/4" piece of foam between the stand and the tank to absorb any minor imperfections
 
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@Marlon2024 , so the tank corners on front measure from bottom of trim to top of tank 15 7/8". The center measures 15 15/16". Hmmmmm. I've never had a glass so I'm unsure if this is by design, I've shimmed it all flat to the rim and now is out of level left to right the amount of shim I've added. Head is spinning right now as I want to do this as PERFECT as possible.
 
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After watching that video and explaining the torsion, I'm sticking with my shims and going to level the stand to accommodate. Thanks for that link. It made sense all along, but it really just clicked. Thanks!
 
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Fully shimmed and all imperfections compensated. This was a minor setback so true swap over will be Saturday instead of Wednesday. On to the finish work and plumbing. Will be water testing and constantly checking level tomorrow. I took the day off to take my time and baby the fill and check method. Top bubble is left to right, bottom bubble is front to back. Glad my leveling skills are better than my photography skills.
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