Thank you very much for the thorough response and advice. Also I assume you are responsible for the idea of my drain style being silent. It’s appreciatedThanks, it will help get to the bottom of things. I will offer my opinion.Thanks for the reply and happy to answer.
Let’s stat here. There is no “ratio” of N to P that needs to be kept. Organisms may consume N, P and C at some specific ratio, but as long as there are N, P, and C in the water column then their relative ratios don’t matter.- my tank seems to either be consuming or using up nitrate at a different rate than phosphate, which seems to be causing my “ratio” to be off.
I am not sure what their “range” or reasoning is. While 0.35 may be “high” according to some people, it is not insanely high. So the question really is, are you having problems? Let’s move on for a moment though.-I wouldn’t necessarily say problem however I can’t seem to get po4 numbers in line with modern reefs recommended ranges.
Fair enough. My advice would be to keep it simple and stick with a method long term instead of hoping around. So, let’s discuss what you have chosen. I would advise making Alk (Ca,Mg are balanced doses in their system) your primary focus and avoid chasing trace numbers or specific N and P numbers. Personally, I would’t spend a penny on ICP unless there was an unexplained problem.- “modern reef” is the second method I have tried. I started up the tank using kalk/esv 2 part and supplementing trace with reef moonshiners. I have been using that method until a few weeks ago when I switched to modern reef. I switched to try to put together an easier and more cost effective program for my tank.
The modern reef base 4 part (it really is 3 part) dosing system appears to be designed to be balanced with already included trace, similar to Triton or TM balling with added A and K. So go with that, and feed the fish. See below.
While I am not a fan of roller filters and only run a skimmer myself, it sounds to me like you have reduced export and increased organic input. It is reasonable for phosphate to rise.with complete reef food and Polypop. Based off of their published recommendations I am trying to remove ALL filtration and sterilization from my tank other than skimmer and UV. Since removing my rollermat my phosphates have been increasing a lot which I why I made this post.
My advice for a new tank? Feed the fish and they will feed the coral. Pouring in bottles of this and that means pouring in more bottles of something and other stuff to counteract the effects of this and that…
Sure, maybe something to settle into over a long period of time if “feeding the fish” is somehow deemed to not be enough. But you should start there and only there. That is, dosing major elements with the included trace and feeding the fish.
Let me explain: Going all-in with Modern Reef’s system means relying on carbon dosing for export and that means managing numerous variables. My advice for most people would be to reserve that level of mess for when all other measures to manage nutrients have hit a brick wall. Why take on the complexity based on promised delivery to the magic land of coral color and polyp extension when “simple” can get you there too?
In other words, use the easy button until it stops working. As time passes, learn what works and what doesn’t with slow changes and metered reactions to problems when they arise.
See above, there should be no need to use complex methods like this to manage nutrients in a young system. LaCl is an “I’m out of all reasonable options, what now” response. That may come years in, but shouldn’t be on the table with a new tank.-lacl seems like it would be the most exact method and easiest to incorporate.
That is my take given my experience.
Good luck with the reef.


If you have the headspace.