T-Bucket

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Future aquarium hobbyist here...I was originally looking into the Max E series, though many have suggested that I skip and go to the Reefer series right off the bat.

I've since been looking into the Reefer Deluxe with the LED lighting, either 170 or 250.

If you had to put together a shopping cart of budget-conscious, yet quality components to get a 170 or 250 up and running, what would you get?

Are there problems with the Reefer Deluxe with regards to power...i.e., do the LED lights have a European plug?

Once again, I have no experience with aquariums, but I'd like to do it right. Thanks!
Research, research, research! Plan ahead! I spent 4 months slowly building my Reefer 450 and honestly, I could have used more time. There is nothing wrong with the Reefer Deluxe Series, if you like those lights then go with that. As already stated bigger is always better, get the biggest tank you can afford and have space for. You may not think so now, but if you get a small a tank I guaranty you will want to upgrade down the road. Also the more water volume means more stable water parameters. That being said if you are stuck on those 2 then at least get the 250. I can't help much as far as budget friendly equipment goes. If we had an estimated budget to go off of that would help as there is so much different equipment out there. I use all EcoTech products on my tank (minus my skimmer) which is costly but worth the investment IMO. In my experience, Sicce makes good return pumps and are pretty quiet, can control the flow to some extent, and are cost effective. For a budget friendly skimmer you can't go wrong with a Reef Octopus Classic (which is what I use in my tank 202-S). I highly recommend getting a titanium heater especially for saltwater, don't waste your time and money on a cheaper glass one. I use an Aquatop 400 watt titanium heater and it actually has an external controller and it works great. This is just my 2 cents. Hope this helps a little but I'm sure other people can help more.
 

stephen bouck

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What size reefer??
Hard work does pay off. Enjoy seeing this coming downstairs

IMG_0789_zps8lfcdpdd.jpg
 

fightingfish

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Research, research, research! Plan ahead! I spent 4 months slowly building my Reefer 450 and honestly, I could have used more time. There is nothing wrong with the Reefer Deluxe Series, if you like those lights then go with that. As already stated bigger is always better, get the biggest tank you can afford and have space for. You may not think so now, but if you get a small a tank I guaranty you will want to upgrade down the road. Also the more water volume means more stable water parameters. That being said if you are stuck on those 2 then at least get the 250. I can't help much as far as budget friendly equipment goes. If we had an estimated budget to go off of that would help as there is so much different equipment out there. I use all EcoTech products on my tank (minus my skimmer) which is costly but worth the investment IMO. In my experience, Sicce makes good return pumps and are pretty quiet, can control the flow to some extent, and are cost effective. For a budget friendly skimmer you can't go wrong with a Reef Octopus Classic (which is what I use in my tank 202-S). I highly recommend getting a titanium heater especially for saltwater, don't waste your time and money on a cheaper glass one. I use an Aquatop 400 watt titanium heater and it actually has an external controller and it works great. This is just my 2 cents. Hope this helps a little but I'm sure other people can help more.


Thanks a ton! For the record, my post should have read "I'm in no rush," haha.

I don't really have a set budget, per se, I just want to have gear I can count on that isn't top of the line stuff, if that makes sense. I could go cheaper on the tank and stand themselves, but I feel like I'd rather spend the money up front there, then upgrade the rest of the gear as I progress in the hobby.

Thanks again...keep em coming!
 

burtbollinger

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about to set up my Reefer 170. I had read conflicting things about the overflow and what water should be floating where. Do I want a small bit of water going down the emergency overflow or do everything flowing down the main overflow? Thank you!

EDIT: I'm kinda referencing the conversation on p. 62 of this thread...just wanted clarification.
 
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Richyreefer

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about to set up my Reefer 170. I had read conflicting things about the overflow and what water should be floating where. Do I want a small bit of water going down the emergency overflow or do everything flowing down the main overflow? Thank you!

EDIT: I'm kinda referencing the conversation on p. 62 of this thread...just wanted clarification.
I believe you want the water level to be just below the top of the emergency overflow standpipe. That's where i keep mine and it is silent.
 
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Broadfield

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Hi, amazing set up! is there any way you can list exactly what you used to connect the pvc pipes into the display? @Broadfield

If you are just needing to hard plumb the return, then you simply need a 3/4" MPT x 3/4" SLIP fitting. You will unthread the Red Sea barbed fitting and then thread the new fitting into place. NOTE: the Red Sea barbed fitting is a metric thread. So you will want to use around 15 wraps of Teflon tape on the new 3/4" MPT fitting.

If you are wanting to hard plump all three(drain, emergency drain and return), then you will need to purchase 2 additional barbed return assemblies from Red Sea and three of the 3/4" MPT x 3/4" SLIP fittings.
 

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What would Reefer owners recommend for a glass cleaner/scraper? I want to be very careful not to scratch the glass. Has glass scratching been an issue for anyone? I currently have an old Nimble Nano that some individual used to make himself and sell via nano-reef.
 

powers2001

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I was initially aquascaping and lifting a heavy chunk of liverock into place and bumped the glass with it. The rock put a tiny chip smaller than the period in this sentence into the glass, although it is not noticeable unless you look closely.
 

ReeferDude916

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about to set up my Reefer 170. I had read conflicting things about the overflow and what water should be floating where. Do I want a small bit of water going down the emergency overflow or do everything flowing down the main overflow? Thank you!

EDIT: I'm kinda referencing the conversation on p. 62 of this thread...just wanted clarification.

I keep about 1" below the top of the emergency tube. It's dead silent and it gives me a little wiggle room for fluctuations in water level.
 

Rory's Reef

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What would Reefer owners recommend for a glass cleaner/scraper? I want to be very careful not to scratch the glass. Has glass scratching been an issue for anyone? I currently have an old Nimble Nano that some individual used to make himself and sell via nano-reef.

I use the Hammerhead Float Plus by Algae Free on my 250 and love it. I like the wood handle better but that's just a personal preference on looks and feel. Like any magnet though, if you get sand in the pad you're likely to scratch your glass.
 

Rory's Reef

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lKFvJaO.jpg


Hi Guys,

Above is my planned hard piping setup for Reefer 350 using Vectra M1 as a return and Teco TK500 as my chiller.

I'm not sure if I get it all correct, please let me know if anything is wrong !

Gonna get all the stuff from http://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/

Man I really gotta learn how to do drawings like that. They seem like they would make things much easier plus they just look cool.

As far as your plumbing goes, I'm definitely no expert but it looks good to me. Maybe some other that have better plumbing expertise can provide some more feedback. I'm assuming that one labeled a 45 is actually a check valve?
 

lake985

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Hi Guys,

Above is my planned hard piping setup for Reefer 350 using Vectra M1 as a return and Teco TK500 as my chiller.

I'm not sure if I get it all correct, please let me know if anything is wrong !

Gonna get all the stuff from http://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/

Thanks so much for posting this! I'm hoping to emulate this as much as possible.

I recently purchased a XL425 and am a total newbie to plumbing and sumps, and have been struggling with figuring out how to connect my return pump. Is everyone gluing/cementing their PVC piping directly into the return pump? How do you take it apart for maintenance?
 

dirtysock

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Man I really gotta learn how to do drawings like that. They seem like they would make things much easier plus they just look cool.

As far as your plumbing goes, I'm definitely no expert but it looks good to me. Maybe some other that have better plumbing expertise can provide some more feedback. I'm assuming that one labeled a 45 is actually a check valve?

Yeah, I had problem visualizing the entire manifold in my head. Hence, decided to draw it out in MS Word.

For the 45 elbow, it's just a normal connector. Is a check valve required?

Thanks so much for posting this! I'm hoping to emulate this as much as possible.

I recently purchased a XL425 and am a total newbie to plumbing and sumps, and have been struggling with figuring out how to connect my return pump. Is everyone gluing/cementing their PVC piping directly into the return pump? How do you take it apart for maintenance?

Yeah, I too was having a heck of a time figuring out how to connect the vectra back to the return barb.

But I'm not sure if the entire setup is correct (piping/union etc sizing) or what can be improved.
 

Rory's Reef

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Yeah, I had problem visualizing the entire manifold in my head. Hence, decided to draw it out in MS Word.

For the 45 elbow, it's just a normal connector. Is a check valve required?



Yeah, I too was having a heck of a time figuring out how to connect the vectra back to the return barb.

But I'm not sure if the entire setup is correct (piping/union etc sizing) or what can be improved.

I don't have a check valve on mine. I guess the 45 is just confusing me. Is it meant to direct it to the back wall of the cabinet? As far as size is concerned 3/4" is good. I didn't use the Vectra M1, but instead I used the RO VarioS-6 and it came with a union fitting so you're able to unscrew the pump from the plumbing to clean it. I would suspect the Vectra would come with one as well, but maybe something to look into. I also had to get a reducer from 1 1/4" to 3/4" from the output of my pump, but again I'm not sure what size the Vectra M1 output is.
 

DLHDesign

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I'm not sure if I get it all correct, please let me know if anything is wrong !
Looks good, overall. Two points:
1) You've got hard-plumbing all the way from the pump to the return. On thing you may want to consider is to use some flexible tubing somewhere in there to reduce the potential for vibration noise. Closer to the pump is better. If you switch the 45 to a barb connection and use soft-line between that and the pump (which you would need a barb for as well), you would eliminate the need for the union there as well. Soft-tubing also allows you to shift the pump about in the sump - which makes cleaning and maintenance easier.
2) My suggestion would be to switch the horizontal gate valve and union next to it. This would allow you to shut off the return line and remove the entire manifold without it draining out. You likely won't need this with the Reefer (the return lines are pretty high up in the tank and don't back-draw much water into the sump when the pump is turned off), but it's better to have the option than not. As you've got it drawn, the gate valve doesn't close anything useful that I can see, so you may as well get something positive out of it.
 

When to mix up fish meal: When was the last time you tried a different brand of food for your reef?

  • I regularly change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 39 22.8%
  • I occasionally change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 58 33.9%
  • I rarely change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 54 31.6%
  • I never change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 16 9.4%
  • Other.

    Votes: 4 2.3%
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