Show Off and Discuss Your Red Sea Reefer Series

[TheReefKeeper]

So on the hard line plumbing wouldn't it be easier to just swap out the 3 bulkheads on the tank vs trying to covert metric to standard?

I have never seen the tank in person so thinking out loud and read all this and seen a lot of hard line solutions.

 

[jsbull]

So on the hard line plumbing wouldn't it be easier to just swap out the 3 bulkheads on the tank vs trying to covert metric to standard?

I have never seen the tank in person so thinking out loud and read all this and seen a lot of hard line solutions.

It's all proprietary threading. However, 3/4" MIP threading works fine with lots of Teflon tape.

 

[TheReefKeeper]

Right I get that but what about the bulkheads are they not easily replaced in the bottom of the tank or are the holes a different size in the tank?

Thinking changing out the bulkheads and having all USAA fittings below and cutting the OEM Plumbing with a USA-Metric sleeve seeing it doesn't really matter in the overflow if it's glued or tight or not.

Just figured making a solid connection above the bottom of the tank in the Overflow might just be easier?

 

[jsbull]

Right I get that but what about the bulkheads are they not easily replaced in the bottom of the tank or are the holes a different size in the tank?

Thinking changing out the bulkheads and having all USAA fittings below and cutting the OEM Plumbing with a USA-Metric sleeve seeing it doesn't really matter in the overflow if it's glued or tight or not.

Just figured making a solid connection above the bottom of the tank in the Overflow might just be easier?

Man, you need to see the tank. There are 3 proprietary pipes that screw into the 3 proprietary bulkheads. You could cut 3 pipes, reglue them to new connectors, and replace 3 bulkheads that might fit... or, you could use teflon tape and be done. I can't imagine a scenario where replacing the bulkheads would be easier.

 

[TheReefKeeper]

Got ya so their all screw in from the top?
Yea I'll see the tank soon mine finally shipped should be here Monday.

 

[pelphrey]

Got ya so their all screw in from the top?
Yea I'll see the tank soon mine finally shipped should be here Monday.

Correct all 3 stand pipes screw into the glass inside of the overflow. Once they are snug they aren't going anywhere. I guess you could call the connectors that connect the pipes and run into the sump unions, since they do provide you with easy remove and access.

I am sure you could put new bulkheads on the reefer if you wanted to, I just couldn't imagine any bulkhead over 3/4" working in the holes provided. My guess is at best a 1/2" bulkhead would work, I could be wrong as I haven't tested this theory out. For the return you would have to modify it pretty significantly since the return clips into the top of the overflow. I get where you are going with this, I just don't see any reason to completely modify the plumbing especially for my specific setup. It works fine and I have had zero issues out of the provided gate valve. If you did decide to ditch the plumbing going into the sump you do need the return barb connectors from Red Sea to connect your own plumbing, this would mean that the plumbing inside the overflow is the OEM Red Sea stand pipes.

I did this video a few months back, it may provide you with a better understanding of the setup.

​

 

[Broadfield]

Right I get that but what about the bulkheads are they not easily replaced in the bottom of the tank or are the holes a different size in the tank?

Thinking changing out the bulkheads and having all USAA fittings below and cutting the OEM Plumbing with a USA-Metric sleeve seeing it doesn't really matter in the overflow if it's glued or tight or not.

Just figured making a solid connection above the bottom of the tank in the Overflow might just be easier?

As @pelphrey noted, the Red Sea bulkheads would not be worth swapping out. Their proprietary fittings actually work really nice in my opinion and are a very small profile. Also as he noted, you can simply buy two more of the Red Sea barbed return fittings to convert all of the drains and return over to hard pipe... as you can see it's what I did on mine....

IMG_7689 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr

 

[TheReefKeeper]

Exactly my issue is I just bought a Dream Box from Royal that will be here Monday along with the tank.

I'm going to have to plumb the Overflow lines to the opposite side of the sump (Left) and the Return lines to the (Right)

I will need to do the plumbing unlike anyone else I've seen so far (I know all about the opposite side plumbing LOL was better than waiting 12 weeks for a custom one from Germany)

I'm jumping the gun I'm sure without seeing it but after 10+ tanks and 20 years + in the Hobby I've gotten everything as close to my dream tank as possible this time around.

I'm also in no rush at all get it up, I've learn't a lot and plumbed mazes on tanks before this one should go O.K. just trying to order as much as I can ahead of time (Bulkheads, Metric to standard Plumbing stuff)

I'm just really trying to think this one out as all the equipment is here minus the Cal-Reactor.

I may just measure the holes and see what I need to do to use all the OEM overflow tubes to new Bulk heads. I have had a SCA Tank and changed that all over before wasn't too bad.

If I can swap it over successfully I can make a tight swing screwed to the bottom of the stand on the underside. This way I can carry my Overflows to the Left Side of the Sump and then Swing the Returns to the a Right side of the Sump nice and clean.

Here is a sample of the complete sump as you see it's opposite and I want to swing the Overflows tight to the bottom of the stand VS 3-4" down inside the stand.

http://royalexclusiv.net/Dreamboxes...o-500-Liter/Dreambox-sample-set-1e::1206.html

 

[Budluvcash]

Hi all , got some pics of the sump divider made for the red sea series , not sure if it's been posted on here yet
So far so good , it's doing a job for me , looks ok aswell , not really to much to it and could of made something my self really for a lot less than I paid for it

I just purchased this same baffle to create a Refugium in my 525XL sump area. Does anyone know of a good Light that works well for the sump???

 

[Vincent100]

I just purchased this same baffle to create a Refugium in my 525XL sump area. Does anyone know of a good Light that works well for the sump???

Hi budluv
I ended up getting a flexi mini ,it's for fresh water planted tanks , sort of newish on the market ....well that's what I was told
It's small but does a great job of growing my cheato , I started of with 3 small balls and they have grown like crazy
I also have a white and blue aquaray hanging in there aswell because I had it laying about but it's not on all the time
The one thing I will say about the flexi mini is its abit pricey for its size but definitely does a great job at growing algae

 

[burtbollinger]

I've got the Reefer 170 running silent now...water is even, at a slight trickle down the overflow drain. I notice that the float ball to the tank is underwater by an inch or so. Does this mean I have my tank overfilled, and I need it to evaporate that much before I could use it?

I'm about to hook up my Tunze ATO, but I wanna make sure I'm not overfilled and the tank's running properly. Thanks!

 

[Wrasse]

I've got the Reefer 170 running silent now...water is even, at a slight trickle down the overflow drain. I notice that the float ball to the tank is underwater by an inch or so. Does this mean I have my tank overfilled, and I need it to evaporate that much before I could use it?

I'm about to hook up my Tunze ATO, but I wanna make sure I'm not overfilled and the tank's running properly. Thanks!

Assuming the float valve on your 170 is the same as what comes on the 250 it should spend most of the time about 1/2 above the water line.

 

[burtbollinger]

thanks! so...should i drain that much out of the tank, then readjust the knob to remove any sucking sounds that start?

 

[Lninwa]

I was leaning towards IM but I could find a stand for sale then found out the stands were flimsy. My LFS said I would love the reefer series as did BRS but I wanted to save money so I ended up with a 33 gal Aqua Max cube which I love but I should have had it drilled. The hob ps and power filter make too many micro bubbles. But I still love the tank

 

[Wrasse]

thanks! so...should i drain that much out of the tank, then readjust the knob to remove any sucking sounds that start?

You likely can remove the excess water from your sump (or display if it's easier) without needing to adjust that pesky knob. The additional head pressure the surplus 1" of water on the intake of your return pump is likely not going to cause a noticeable change.

I'm fussy about salt streaks left behind by drops of water and I'd suggest doing as much of the water work from the sump to avoid drips down the side of the display.

 

[burtbollinger]

you were right. I was able to remove the amount of water I needed without it making noise. thanks for your help.

 

[m0jjen]

Hey guys! I recently ordered a reefer 425XL which will be setup in february. I have a few questions regarding hard plumbing the return. First off, what is the hose connector glued or
threaded? If so can i hard pvc line be connected using a fitting like this?

Thanks in advanced!

 

[Broadfield]

Hey guys! I recently ordered a reefer 425XL which will be setup in february. I have a few questions regarding hard plumbing the return. First off, what is the hose connector glued or
threaded? If so can i hard pvc line be connected using a fitting like this?

Thanks in advanced!

Congrats on the tank purchase! If you are doing 3/4" piping, then you want a 3/4" MPT x 3/4" SLIP adapter... which is what you have pictured. Simply unthread the Red Sea barbed adapter from their bulkhead fitting and screw in the new adapter. Since the Red Sea thread is metric, you will need about 15 wraps of standard Teflon tape on the new adapter.

http://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/836-007-3-4-schedule-80-pvc-male-adaptor.html

There's one gentleman on here that said the electrical conduit adapter is a much closer thread pitch to the metric... requiring a standard amount of Teflon tape. However, they are a lighter grey color than schedule 80... and I'm picky on everything matching. My old plumbing setup on my 450 was perfectly fine for over a year. So I did not hesitate to use the same method of 15 wraps on my new orange plumbing setup.

 

[m0jjen]

Congrats on the tank purchase! If you are doing 3/4" piping, then you want a 3/4" MPT x 3/4" SLIP adapter... which is what you have pictured. Simply unthread the Red Sea barbed adapter from their bulkhead fitting and screw in the new adapter. Since the Red Sea thread is metric, you will need about 15 wraps of standard Teflon tape on the new adapter.

http://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/836-007-3-4-schedule-80-pvc-male-adaptor.html

There's one gentleman on here that said the electrical conduit adapter is a much closer thread pitch to the metric... requiring a standard amount of Teflon tape. However, they are a lighter grey color than schedule 80... and I'm picky on everything matching. My old plumbing setup on my 450 was perfectly fine for over a year. So I did not hesitate to use the same method of 15 wraps on my new orange plumbing setup.

Plan is to do 1" piping. The one fitting i've looked at is 3/4" into 25/32 mm, should work right?

 

[Broadfield]

If you are doing 1" piping, then you will need to do a 3/4" MPT x 1" SLIP... which is what I'm using.

I'm not sure which standard to metric adapter you are referring to, but I have yet to see one that exists, that is correct.