Skimmer Q&A Thread
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Daytonareefing
Active Member
I know its all I use but I must have been looking at a very old post where he said he reviewed everything thing but them so I wondered why.
Intrigued about"some type of automatic water level controller for the sump" The level in my sump changes two ways : Evaporation and when (*)I turn my pumps off to feed my fish and when I feed my Corals. 1) Evaporation issue could be solved by some kind of ATO system. 2) The other is to remember to turn skimmer off then on latter ( I fail miserably on this one) hence my frustration.
(*) If I could resolve this by"some type of automatic water level controller for the sump", I would like to know how to build or buy a devise that would do this. Enlighten me. :-))
luke33
2500 Club Member
You can go a few routes, get an ATO, skimmer baffle or create a baffle or container for your skimmer to stay in a constant water level, or you can recirculate the skimmer. It will be much easier to go the baffle or ato route.
luke33
2500 Club Member
Why are you turning off your pump's when you feed your tank? The current doesn't stop in the ocean when a fish eats : )
cginter
Well-Known Member
After doing some research BM is out due to most of the parts being built over seas and customer service isn't the greatest. The SRO 3000int is good but it's the older style that cannot be taking apart for cleaning unlike the regal. I'm now deciding to go with either the RO regal 220int 9" (only cuz it has the Bubble blaster 5500 pump) or the RO elite 220 ( new design, seamless body). $100 bucks difference. Does the seamless body really make a difference?
luke33
2500 Club Member
Nope, they just cost more to make. Another few lines out there is the skimz and the new nyos. I have used a few skimz and they work well, I haven't had any experience with the nyos but have heard good things. But if your set on the octo you can't go wrong with the one's you mentioned.
I have to turn my pumps off to feed because the" food will go everywhere, under rocks etc." Plus the skimmer then must be turned off because the sump water level rises.
mcarroll
10K Club member
Feeding less, more frequently can help with that too. Same quantity but you critters get X chances to eat it vs one chance.
You might also consider adjusting rock work and/or placement of pumps to eliminate dead zones if possible.
Just $0.02
luke33
2500 Club Member
I'd agree with Mcarroll too. Also just a note, if your turning off and on your skimmer every day it will lower the life of the skimmer pump. Skimmer pump's are not made to be turned on and off like that.
I have no choose. The skimmer will over flow if I don't. My sump level rises when I shut my pumps to feed fish/corals.
The sump has a single divider open at bottom Only, So water level rises when pump is turned off. So Far I'm seriously thinking about removing the skimmer and reinstalling my GFO/Carbon reactors. It's this or a new Sump.
The sump has a single divider open at bottom Only, So water level rises when pump is turned off. So Far I'm seriously thinking about removing the skimmer and reinstalling my GFO/Carbon reactors. It's this or a new Sump.
mcarroll
10K Club member
If you are able to run without a skimmer you probably should. BUT...
The obvious down side is that a reactor is expensive to run (consumable GFO and carbon) vs a skimmer...which virtually runs for free, forever. Some people reef with no mind toward budget, but if you do...there's a good reason so many folks have fit skimmers into their system.
Flow Vs Filter Pumps
If you keep the skimmer, the "correct" solution for you during feeding is to leave the sump+skimmer running, but shut off your flow pumps in the tank. (And of course feed only as much in one sitting as makes sense so you aren't feeding the rocks and skimmer - and feed more frequently vs heavier to give your fish more chances to eat.)
It follows from your current process that you might be using your return as a flow source - if so, this is another aspect of your problem. Keep in mind that 2-4 times your display volume is all you need for sump flow in gallons per hour. E.g. a 90 gallon tank would be perfect with a return flow between 180 gph and 360 gph. More than that is overkill, and in your case (if true) it's actually causing a problem other than the usual noise and bubble issues.
Air Gap
One other thing to consider, which should really be in place no matter what your configuration/situation, is the air-gap for your drain plumbing.
If, when you shut off power, it's draining too much water into the sump, then all you need to do is cut/drill an air-gap higher (or to enlarge the existing one) so it works quicker at breaking the siphon from the tank. This way, the sump only has to catch the water that drains from the return plumbing itself (which should be mostly insignificant) - not additional water from the tank.
The obvious down side is that a reactor is expensive to run (consumable GFO and carbon) vs a skimmer...which virtually runs for free, forever. Some people reef with no mind toward budget, but if you do...there's a good reason so many folks have fit skimmers into their system.
- What made you add the skimmer in the first place?
- Also, can't you shut off your flow pumps separately from your sump return pump?
Flow Vs Filter Pumps
If you keep the skimmer, the "correct" solution for you during feeding is to leave the sump+skimmer running, but shut off your flow pumps in the tank. (And of course feed only as much in one sitting as makes sense so you aren't feeding the rocks and skimmer - and feed more frequently vs heavier to give your fish more chances to eat.)
It follows from your current process that you might be using your return as a flow source - if so, this is another aspect of your problem. Keep in mind that 2-4 times your display volume is all you need for sump flow in gallons per hour. E.g. a 90 gallon tank would be perfect with a return flow between 180 gph and 360 gph. More than that is overkill, and in your case (if true) it's actually causing a problem other than the usual noise and bubble issues.
Air Gap
One other thing to consider, which should really be in place no matter what your configuration/situation, is the air-gap for your drain plumbing.
If, when you shut off power, it's draining too much water into the sump, then all you need to do is cut/drill an air-gap higher (or to enlarge the existing one) so it works quicker at breaking the siphon from the tank. This way, the sump only has to catch the water that drains from the return plumbing itself (which should be mostly insignificant) - not additional water from the tank.
Harold Green
Well-Known Member
It's unfortunate but many of us have to build with the most cost effective way we can. Last year I built a 210g and when it came down to the skimmer I wanted one that would be for close to 400g in capacity. At the time there were few reviews on the bubble magus 220A but I liked the price and the fact that it was rated for up to 396g. I bought one and set it up in the 75g sump. A year later it is still chugging along. Removes a cup or more of green/brown gunk each week. It's a large skimmer and I don't remove the collection cup because frankly there isn't much overhead space left in the stand. I run a brush around the cup and riser. Pour in two cups of fresh water and drain it into a pitcher. Love the drain feature. At this point I think it was a good purchase but I hear the pump is an energy hog and I plan on doing a little research on a replacement pump in the future when the existing one craps out. Any suggestions on a pump to replace the 4000 pump that's factory.
mcarroll
10K Club member
Unless your tank runs hot (>82°F...I.e. you need a chiller) there's no need to worry about this.
A lower power pump will be offset by your heaters needing to run more frequently. I actually had to add another heater when I upgraded to a Tunze skimmer that only draws 15 watts. You might not need to add another heater, but the load on your heaters will be greater just the same.
Considering that and then the fact that your skimmer is specifically tuned to the pump it came with, I generally recommend sticking with the factory pump. If you struggle to keep the tank under 82°F then this upgrade would make a lot more sense.
A lower power pump will be offset by your heaters needing to run more frequently. I actually had to add another heater when I upgraded to a Tunze skimmer that only draws 15 watts. You might not need to add another heater, but the load on your heaters will be greater just the same.
Considering that and then the fact that your skimmer is specifically tuned to the pump it came with, I generally recommend sticking with the factory pump. If you struggle to keep the tank under 82°F then this upgrade would make a lot more sense.
Harold Green
Well-Known Member
Actually the tank maintains a temperature of 79 and I have a heater but I rarely see it on. Having leds is keeping a lot of heat out of the tank over the vho's I was running before. Basic heat sources are a mag 18, skimmer pump, wave maker and that's about it. Room temperature is kept about 76 and I think that helps a lot too along with around 275g of water in the system. Ato water is room temperature also. I had in mind buying a replacement pump to put on the shelf for future repair since I like the skimmer and plan on keeping it as long as possible.
Let me start out saying thanks. Starting from the top here: Some history of how all this got started PLUS answer to first question : 1) I was told that having .12-.2 ppm PO3 was the reason My Acro's were not growing as fast as I thought they should. 2) I was using times 2 (2"X10" Carbon/GFO) Reactors Only 2a) I was told after 2wks that my carbon/GFO would be clogged up to a point I would have to replace media. ( I only change it when flow is reduced to 1/3 of normal)(1-1 1/2 months) 3) LFS told me to remove reactors and Re-install my Vertex 150 Skimmer in the sump(2oo9/gen1) 4) Old Past issues now Revisited
Question 2: flow pumps and return pump are connected to a Tsunami Wave maker W/feed mode.(bottom lft) // Skimmer pluged into sw/recpt. (upper left) (Not tank light NOT that intense)
Tank Flow: Lft. to Right of tank is as follows: Tunze nanostrean 8040// Return W/two 3/4" outputs// Eiheim1048 (mid)W/T out and small internal filter(mid) // Eiheim 1200 W/ T and (90* elbow directed downward) (on RT side corner.
RETURN Pump : External Gen-X at 1048gph (plumbed to run Reactors W/T and Return Assy)
Air Gap: I believe this pic will show this (hole is 1/8" )
Note: Pump is just restarted here.
Close up of air hole below
Final pics:
I think I got it. I appreciate all your inputs. Not sure what directions to go now. I have allot to learn still. Thanks
This is may sound kind of dumb on my part. ( The area that I feed my fish is where the return flow is)( throttle its flow to the tank down to what is needed --????? I can shut down flow pumps Only feed the fish on the far right side instead.
But when I target feed my Corals I need all pumps off. What would you suggest I do for this scenario??
mcarroll
10K Club member
It does depend on the exact corals so lemme know if there are specific concerns, but in general I'd advise against target feeding corals. Nobody does this in nature, so there's no good reason for it to be a requirement and it's not likely that your coral will respond by eating just because you target feed. In general.
Consider that you already feed your fish and at least some of that food gets to the corals.
Also consider that the fish generate waste (solid and liquid) that also gets to the coral.
In the wild, corals (in general) subsist on phytoplankton, bacterioplankton and dissolved organic material. I bet you aren't even using any of those to target feed. :) The good part is that two out of those three are taken care of by just feeding your fish. The other (phytoplankton) is the hardest to emulate in a reef, so for most it's not worth pursuing beyond installing a refugium...maybe dosing something like DT's if you're hardcore. (It takes refrigeration while dosing.) It's worth nothing that lots of beautiful corals are grown every day without target feeding. ;)
Unless you have a coral where you are targeting specific polyps, with specific doses of food, I would refrain and just focus on feeding the fish less per feeding, but more frequently - and of course with the highest quality, whole ingredients that you can.
Hope that makes sense! :)
(I think I stopped talking about skimmers by accident! PM me and we can continue outside the Skimmer Q&A thread!!! LOL)
Consider that you already feed your fish and at least some of that food gets to the corals.
Also consider that the fish generate waste (solid and liquid) that also gets to the coral.
In the wild, corals (in general) subsist on phytoplankton, bacterioplankton and dissolved organic material. I bet you aren't even using any of those to target feed. :) The good part is that two out of those three are taken care of by just feeding your fish. The other (phytoplankton) is the hardest to emulate in a reef, so for most it's not worth pursuing beyond installing a refugium...maybe dosing something like DT's if you're hardcore. (It takes refrigeration while dosing.) It's worth nothing that lots of beautiful corals are grown every day without target feeding. ;)
Unless you have a coral where you are targeting specific polyps, with specific doses of food, I would refrain and just focus on feeding the fish less per feeding, but more frequently - and of course with the highest quality, whole ingredients that you can.
Hope that makes sense! :)
(I think I stopped talking about skimmers by accident! PM me and we can continue outside the Skimmer Q&A thread!!! LOL)
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