Some of my Acro Collection

Vested

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But besides that, adding chemi-clean has stopped certain rtn events for me in the past. When all water parameters appear perfect, and only certain corals rtn it is often a sign of infection. I’ve had colonies with their skin peeling and flying off stop dying mid treatment. It really is amazing, it’s like the coral glued its skin back to the skeleton.
Have you talked about this before? Never heard of using chemiclean like that before, sounds like a super useful tool anymore details about how you’ve used it? Do you dose the recommended amount still? Are you doing full tank treatment or as a dip
 

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RR Orange Passion
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Beautiful!!! Goals for sure. Im trying to start acros in my tank! Got any tips for someone new to acros? These corals are just stunning
 
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coral reeftank

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Have you talked about this before? Never heard of using chemiclean like that before, sounds like a super useful tool anymore details about how you’ve used it? Do you dose the recommended amount still? Are you doing full tank treatment or as a dip
There have been a few threads talking about chemiclean and cipro for bacterial infections.
The guidelines on the box is what I follow. I’ve used 20 scoops in about 160 gallons total volume before and no issues. This and cipro have been very good at stopping bacterial infections. I had an acantho shrink down to the skeleton and now it’s fully open again after chemiclean and cipro treatment.
I always use chemiclean as an in tank treatment as the bacteria will most likely recolonize the coral if you only give it a bath.

I would not use it willy nilly though. I would not want to weaken the effects by improper usage. It’s very important that you get a proper diagnosis or use it as a last resort. In my cases, the rtn was seasonal, very random and seemed to affect only certain corals so I presumed that a specific strain of bacteria was ailing my corals. After the chemiclean the corals perked up and all signs of rtn/stn stopped and healed.
Beautiful!!! Goals for sure. Im trying to start acros in my tank! Got any tips for someone new to acros? These corals are just stunning
Number 1 tip is to take it slowly. You will lose a lot of corals if you jump in without educating yourself. I would start with easy to care sps corals such as montis and green slimer. This way you can gauge your system’s ability to care for these corals.
Make sure to routinely test your water parameters and stay on top of your husbandry.
A good indicator that your system is ready for acros is the proliferation of coralline algae. Once you see a good bit growing in your tank you can feel more assured about your acro-growing abilities
 

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Very nice read here!! Thanks for the insights and the honest write-up.

So theres like ALOT products from Korallen-Zucht and I guess we cannot use all at the same time though. Besides FlatWorm Stop are the Xtra and Amino Acids the products uve tested and found are worth dosing? Or did you test some more of their products also?
I was interested in Coral Booster, B-Balance and Sponge Power too. Sounds like Coral Booster is working pretty good together with Flatworm Stop.

Ive tested ZeoFood Plus but had to stop. It caused some brown slime algae (many reports in the zeo forum too)

And im pretty happy with ZeoBak!
 
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coral reeftank

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Very nice read here!! Thanks for the insights and the honest write-up.

So theres like ALOT products from Korallen-Zucht and I guess we cannot use all at the same time though. Besides FlatWorm Stop are the Xtra and Amino Acids the products uve tested and found are worth dosing? Or did you test some more of their products also?
I was interested in Coral Booster, B-Balance and Sponge Power too. Sounds like Coral Booster is working pretty good together with Flatworm Stop.

Ive tested ZeoFood Plus but had to stop. It caused some brown slime algae (many reports in the zeo forum too)

And im pretty happy with ZeoBak!
The reason I dose these specifically is because I don’t follow the full zeovit system. I guess you could say that it’s a high nutrient zeo system.
I try to use complementary products and try to avoid products that say they “enhance” a certain color. Most likely they are trace elements, which I believe I get from the other products I already dose. Also, by going by my icp values I don’t see any value in particular that I think should be brought up. So I feel my current methods keep all my values stable.

I have not used B-balance, and was told to look into sponge power. I may be interested in the sponge power, but not the B-balance. The sponges in my system already grow very fast, so I wonder if this product will be redundant.
 

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The reason I dose these specifically is because I don’t follow the full zeovit system. I guess you could say that it’s a high nutrient zeo system.
I try to use complementary products and try to avoid products that say they “enhance” a certain color. Most likely they are trace elements, which I believe I get from the other products I already dose. Also, by going by my icp values I don’t see any value in particular that I think should be brought up. So I feel my current methods keep all my values stable.

I have not used B-balance, and was told to look into sponge power. I may be interested in the sponge power, but not the B-balance. The sponges in my system already grow very fast, so I wonder if this product will be redundant.
OK..
SO you would say the most important products (when elements / trace are all ok as per ICP) you need:
ZeoZym, KZ Aminio Acids, Flatworm Stop and thats kinda it?
 

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There have been a few threads talking about chemiclean and cipro for bacterial infections.
The guidelines on the box is what I follow. I’ve used 20 scoops in about 160 gallons total volume before and no issues. This and cipro have been very good at stopping bacterial infections. I had an acantho shrink down to the skeleton and now it’s fully open again after chemiclean and cipro treatment.
I always use chemiclean as an in tank treatment as the bacteria will most likely recolonize the coral if you only give it a bath.

I would not use it willy nilly though. I would not want to weaken the effects by improper usage. It’s very important that you get a proper diagnosis or use it as a last resort. In my cases, the rtn was seasonal, very random and seemed to affect only certain corals so I presumed that a specific strain of bacteria was ailing my corals. After the chemiclean the corals perked up and all signs of rtn/stn stopped and healed.

Number 1 tip is to take it slowly. You will lose a lot of corals if you jump in without educating yourself. I would start with easy to care sps corals such as montis and green slimer. This way you can gauge your system’s ability to care for these corals.
Make sure to routinely test your water parameters and stay on top of your husbandry.
A good indicator that your system is ready for acros is the proliferation of coralline algae. Once you see a good bit growing in your tank you can feel more assured about your acro-growing abilities
Good to know thanks, id heard of using cipro before but chemiclean is new to me. Actually interested in it as an alternative to cipro if ever needed hopefully eryhromycin is a less intense anti-biotic. Have you always used it in conjunction with cipro?
 
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coral reeftank

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OK..
SO you would say the most important products (when elements / trace are all ok as per ICP) you need:
ZeoZym, KZ Aminio Acids, Flatworm Stop and thats kinda it?
I have not used the kz aminos, tbh I don’t think they are too necessary. The core 3 I would use are pohl’s xtra special, coral booster, flatworm stop.
Good to know thanks, id heard of using cipro before but chemiclean is new to me. Actually interested in it as an alternative to cipro if ever needed hopefully eryhromycin is a less intense anti-biotic. Have you always used it in conjunction with cipro?
I have not used both at the same time, but have cycled them. I administer a treatment, perform water change, run carbon for 1 week, then switch drugs. That’s only if I don’t see any recovery.
 

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I have not used the kz aminos, tbh I don’t think they are too necessary. The core 3 I would use are pohl’s xtra special, coral booster, flatworm stop.

I have not used both at the same time, but have cycled them. I administer a treatment, perform water change, run carbon for 1 week, then switch drugs. That’s only if I don’t see any recovery.

Well that sounds awesome!
How do you dose the KZ stuff? I mean most need to be dosed daily as per their instructions.
Do you just dose that stuff weekly?
 
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coral reeftank

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So for my current bioload I dose my systems twice a week with 1 cap of each product. All my tanks are roughly the same water volume. I would advise you to start at the recommended dose or slightly below to monitor how your system reacts.
 

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Since I often get asked what I dose to my systems and about my methodologies, I've decided to write a post detailing my most current style of husbandry and my thought process behind why I employ certain techniques. Hopefully this post serves to stimulate more discussion among new and old reefers to advance our wonderful hobby.

So first, let's start off with system filtration.
  1. Protein Skimmer
    All my skimmers are set to skim a very dry skim. They primarily serve as gas exchange chambers, I do not want them to remove too much from the water column as I want the corals to be doing that for me. To me, I see no point in over skimming/ skimming wet since all that will do is remove excess water and valuable trace elements and nutrients from the water column.
  2. Bio Media
    In all my systems, the sump becomes storage for extra bio media. Every large coral operation I've visited does the same. Thousands of galIons of barebottom systems filled with corals plumbed to a sump with copious amounts of bio media. I place live rock, zeolites, and marine pure blocks in my sumps for ecological/biome stability. This emphasis on bio media ensures that my systems can process and metabolize the waste created by my bio load and is paramount to preventing any nuisances from popping up in the main display. In these cryptic zones in my sump, sponges, feather dusters and other lifeforms actively filter particulates from the water and making sure that unwanted algae cannot take root. A strong and diverse microbiome mitigates the proliferation of infectious pathogens and unwanted organisms by limiting their population through competition.
  3. Mechanical Filtration
    To filter sock or not to filter sock, that is the question. For me, no filter sock! While I do run filter socks on some systems I rarely clean them. I use the mesh ones that don't clog very often and primarily use them to catch large particulates. The fine particles that pass through ultimately collect in the cryptic liverock zones and I suck out the detritus bi-annually. Again, I see no need to have super crystal-clear particulate free water. These particles feed my corals! Why would I want to starve my corals? Our corals do not come from crystal clear sparkling waters! The water they are in is turbid and is filled with food particulates that the corals eat 24/7.
  4. Chemical Filtration
    I was a long time passive carbon and GFO user. As in, fill a bag and leave it in the sump for a month then replace. However, now I use carbon and GFO more as spot treatments. I have not used GFO in about a year and now place my carbon in a media reactor that runs for only two hours a day. This ensures that my water does not get too tinted and prevents RTN events due to carbon stripping too much from the water column.
  5. Water changes
    I perform weekly 5-10 gallon water changes on all of my systems. The system volumes range from roughly 140-180 gallons. My old AP Bio teacher always jokingly said "Dilution is the solution to pollution!"
Now that concludes the filtration for my systems. Very simple. It's just small weekly water changes, rock, protein skimmer, and maybe carbon/gfo.


Now let's discuss my feeding.
  1. The Fish
    My fish are the guardians of my reef. They maintain the algae, they eat the pests, and they bring me joy! To reward them I feed my systems very heavily to ensure that they are well fed, healthy, and can continue their jobs. I feed a two inch rectangle of rods food everyday, along with a sheet of nori. I also throw in NLS pellets/flakes everytime that I am in the fish room. This ensures that my fish are fed AT LEAST 2X a day and upwards to 10X when I am around them. These small consistent feeds ensure that the fish are always happy, peaceful and pooping!
  2. The Coral
    As we all know, fish poop is #1. But what happens when your corals crave more than what your fish have to offer? Well, this means that you must feed your corals! The best time to do so is at night when the corals have their polyps fully out and are in feed mode. This is when I will put in my coral foods and turn off the return pump for one hour, allowing the food to circulate in the display. Coral nutrition is often overlooked, I for one was not a big proponent in feeding SPS corals. They just never seemed to react when I fed reef roids or those other powdered dry foods. However, since I discovered Fauna Marin Min S I have since changed my mind. I find that acropora are actually responsive to this food and you can see the individual tentacles on the coral polyp retract and feed. I have spot fed several bleached acropora to test and have noticed positive results. The tissue and polyp health noticeably increases when fed, opposed to those that were not fed. I find that feeding the corals is much more advantageous than just dumping in nitrates and phosphates due to how the corals obtain N and P. While the N and P levels in some of my systems are considered high for SPS standards I believe that these elevated levels provide the beneficial bacteria with resources to proliferate which the coral then actively consume. My hypothesis in regards to why the ocean levels of nitrates and phosphates are so low is because that these nutrients are bound in the biomass of the live foods that the corals eat out in the wild. I presume that wild corals catch a large amount of live prey that we cannot replicate in our systems so we rely on coral feeds. The majority of the foods offered today are not live feeds so they rapidly decay in our systems leading to the elevated levels of nitrates and phosphates. This probably leads to boom and bust cycles in our microbiome which can fuel pathogens. If your system is young, or not fully loaded with corals ready to eat and uptake nutrients, these elevated levels along with microbiome instability can be deleterious to the health and goals we set for our aquarium so I advise that you only begin to feed your corals when your system is ecologically sound. If your goal is rich, vibrant coloration on your acros you must provide them with proper nutrition! Feed with caution to prevent undesirable events from occurring. Start slow and adjust based off your system's ability to metabolize and process the foods you put in.
    • Note: I have transferred corals from ULNS to nutrient rich systems and vice versa with no ill effect. One would think that the sudden drop or rise in N or P would shock the corals and lead to RTN or other ailments. But not in my experience. This is because corals don't directly rely on N and P out of the water column. They acquire it through the bacteria they consume. So I think when people try to emulate these values to get better colors they do not account for the composure of their microbiome. A healthy microbiome with elevated N and P will yield vastly different results than an unstable microbiome with similar N and P. You can very easily throw the equilibrium in your system off by chasing numbers. Instead, train your eyes. Observe your coral and develop that 6th sense.
IMG_7721.JPG



Now let's discuss my dosing and parameters.
  1. Calcium reactor
    All my SPS systems utilize a calcium reactor to replenish the elemental needs of the corals. To me it is the most cost/time effective method to provide my systems with the elements it requires.
  2. Kalkwasser
    To mitigate the low pH effluent coming from the calcium reactor, I utilize kalkwasser via my ato. Kalkwasser is a game changer for any SPS keeper. The corals grow noticeably faster when I use it due to the boost in pH, alkalinity and calcium. My system now ranges from 8.1-8.5 pH.
  3. ICP, Core 3 and Trace elements
    On all of my systems I shoot to keep my alkalinity, calcium and magnesium in the ranges of
    Alk : 8-10
    Cal: 380-450
    Mg: 1350-1450
    Attached here is my most recent ICP results. I try to send out an ICP every month if I'm actively tinkering with the system, but if not then I only send test when something appears fishy. I only dose 3 trace elements. They are strontium, iodine, and fluoride. I shoot for 1.5 mg/l of Fluorine, 90 µg/L Iodine and 8 mg/L strontium. I always dose less than is recommended, I only dose these because they appear to get depleted quite rapidly.
    At the time of this test, my calcium reactor ran out of media so that explains the lower calcium value. I have since added more media. But beside the low calcium value the rest of the elements appear to be in check.

  1. Supplements
    Oh boy, touchy subject. Let me get some things out of the way first. I am not sponsored by any of these companies, nor did any of them pay me to say any of these things. I 100% believe that you can have an awesome sps tank without the use of any one of these products. While it is possible, only few will ever achieve a product-less dream reef. I was perfectly capable of growing sps without the use of any of these things. But I think the usage of these supplements allow me to reach the pinnacle of coral coloration and health.
    • KZ
      IMG_1429.JPG

      I use these products.
      • Flatworm Stop: makes the tissue of the acros very plump. Also makes your acros unpalatable to AEFW so corals that have been exposed to it in the long-term will have a higher resistance to these nasty bugs
      • Coral Booster: KZ claims synergistic effects when used along with Flatworm Stop. I presume it contains certain trace elements that are often depleted in closed systems.
      • Pohl's Xtra Special: Prevents nutrient depletion, not exactly sure what is in here but it will aid immensely if you are running a ulns or are prone to bottoming out.
      • Zeobak: As a previous Zeovit user I saw the power of zeobak. This stuff will keep your tank CLEAN! I use this to reinforce my microbiome. In addition, coral can eat this bacteria too! It is also a very strong nutrient control mechanism, so do not overdose this!
      • Acroglow: This is a newer addition to the cabinet. Upon adding this to my regimen I have found it to help bleached acros regain their color very fast given that everything else is in order. Much faster than I had in my past experiences with coloring up acros.
    • ME
      I met Mark several years back when he began ME corals and his products really stood out to me. What sold me was the fact that all their products use USP grade ingredients, so I trust that I am getting a clean product. I use their products to dose my aminos, fluoride, iodine, and strontium.
      IMG_1431.JPG

      Fun fact: Several of their products feature my photos!
    • Fauna Marin
      These are the newest products among my arsenal. Those German Gurus sure know reefing!
      • Min S: My favorite coral food. Acros actively eat it unlike the dry powder products. The worst part about this is the smell. If you can't handle strong odors... but the things we do for the ones we love, right?
      • Organic: another broad trace element product, supposed synergistic effects along with the use of Min S. This helps me keep certain trace elements from bottoming out.
      • Amin: A broader amino supplement than the ME coral stuff.
      • Coral Vitality: This product is worded very very vaguely. However, I notice that usage of this makes the acros much slimier. It claims it is the "optimal supply for the important bacterial fauna of corals" whatever that means. However my corals do appear "more stress resistant and vital than animals with insufficient symbiosis bacteria".
        IMG_1432.JPG

  • Doctor Tims
    I have experienced weird seasonal bleaching events. It is very sporadic and unpredictable. Completely separate systems will be affected and the corals will begin to decline. I have heard anecdotes from other reefers experiencing the same issues. I hope that by prophylactically using this in conjunction with the other bacterial supplements that I can prevent these future events.
    IMG_1433.JPG
This pretty much concludes how I operate my systems and what goes into them. While this is how I operate, it is by no means a straight shot to success. You could go out of your way and purchase all these products to put in your tank and emulate my set up. However, that does not mean your results will be the same as mine. You must stay proactive and always on your toes. Remember, this hobby is about maintaining an entire ecosystem and keeping it at equilibrium. Much easier said than done.
If you do not dedicate your time, adapt, and stay open minded your dreams will stay dreams and never become reality. The beauty of this hobby lies in it constant evolution and the plethora of unknowns ready to be discovered. If you are ever to be discouraged in your system, be strong. Time, knowledge, and experimentation are your friend. Do not be shy to explore, try new things and change your preconceptions.

Feel free to ask questions and offer critique to any of my methods. I am always open to constructive criticism and opportunities for growth.

As always, Happy Reefing!
Allan
IMG_1434.jpg
I just want to say I really appreciate this detailed writeup. Your success and knowledge is humbling to say the least!
 
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coral reeftank

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Gorgeous! All those wrasse are ok with each other?
For the most part yes. There is some fin flaring from the males, but testosterone will do that lol.

I just want to say I really appreciate this detailed writeup. Your success and knowledge is humbling to say the least!
Thank you, that means a lot to me. I guess growing up with this hobby has allowed me to really build a connection to my systems.
 

Charlie the Reefer

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For the most part yes. There is some fin flaring from the males, but testosterone will do that lol.


Thank you, that means a lot to me. I guess growing up with this hobby has allowed me to really build a connection to my systems.
For sure. I'm in Barrington IL so I'll be reaching out rg potentially purchasing some stuff down the line (after I gain more confidence). In the interim definitely following your progress with rapt interest!
 
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coral reeftank

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For sure. I'm in Barrington IL so I'll be reaching out rg potentially purchasing some stuff down the line (after I gain more confidence). In the interim definitely following your progress with rapt interest!
Anytime! I don't mind to chat so if you're wondering about sps husbandry just shoot me a message!
 
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Acros are responding well to the new super concoction of
Zeozym
Zeobak
Amin
Reef Roids
Coral Spring
ME Aminos
I've been using it 3 days back to back and it's definitely a nutrient rich feed. I've been monitoring my systems ability to process nutrients and it has really been interesting. Will post some results once I get more data.

I figured that I could mix all these into one bottle and feed the tank while at the same time clarifying the water. So far so good! The water looks crystal clear and the acros are super happy!

_DSC7955.JPG

CRT Hot Rod, one of my grow out pieces. I can't quite pinpoint what species it is but it HOT!


_DSC7961-2.JPG

TGC Rainbow Ascension, this one's all about the details. The random purple polyps and streaks make it really cool. Just wished it grew faster



_DSC7963.JPG

WCR Rainbow



_DSC7981.JPG

TGC Savage, this one is bright!
 

Sweet Reef Corals

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Acros are responding well to the new super concoction of
Zeozym
Zeobak
Amin
Reef Roids
Coral Spring
ME Aminos
I've been using it 3 days back to back and it's definitely a nutrient rich feed. I've been monitoring my systems ability to process nutrients and it has really been interesting. Will post some results once I get more data.

I figured that I could mix all these into one bottle and feed the tank while at the same time clarifying the water. So far so good! The water looks crystal clear and the acros are super happy!

_DSC7955.JPG

CRT Hot Rod, one of my grow out pieces. I can't quite pinpoint what species it is but it HOT!


_DSC7961-2.JPG

TGC Rainbow Ascension, this one's all about the details. The random purple polyps and streaks make it really cool. Just wished it grew faster



_DSC7963.JPG

WCR Rainbow



_DSC7981.JPG

TGC Savage, this one is bright!
Love the Savage! Unique color combination and I’m all about the pastels!
 

Charlie the Reefer

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Hey CRT.... I've pretty much went thru this entire thread. Honestly it's one of the most impressive collections/growouts I've seen (in my limited experience). So I'm really trying to study your method.

One question I have, regarding your philosophy...

I feel like one of your main "tenets" are to have a lot of varying food/nutrients in the water column, in different forms for the acros to uptake. And you pair that with strong biological export via your media in the sump, and from pics it looks like you have much live rock under the racks in your tank.

I'm very curious about this point. It makes sense to me, but the main thing that would concern me is these "hard to reach" and "cryptic" zones getting dirty with detritus, or whatever else. If you have stacks of rock or media, I feel like they inevitably collect "the bad stuff". Do you routinely clean this stuff out, ensure it has flow, or what? It does seem like you are supplementing quite a bit, and it is really working for you from what I see. You are probably familiar with Chummingham (he is minutes from your location), but I believe he has a similar approach, albeit a different flavor (lots of stuff in water column).

On the other hand, I was listening to a podcast with Jake Adams, and he mentioned the ultimate progression of the hobby was to just have corals to process things in the water column, absolutely no live rock or media. That seems to be a completely different method, you'd obviously have to pair that approach with un natural export methods (I would assume).

So anyways, I ask the above (humbly) and hope this is not too convoluted. Again I am keenly studying your approach because I wish to emulate the success shown here!
 

Good trouble: Have mushrooms ever become pests in your aquarium?

  • Mushrooms would never be pests even if they kept replicating.

    Votes: 1 5.9%
  • Mushrooms have not become a pest for me.

    Votes: 6 35.3%
  • Mushroom have become overgrown, but not to the point of becoming pests.

    Votes: 4 23.5%
  • Mushrooms have become pests in my aquarium.

    Votes: 6 35.3%
  • Other.

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