Splitting a display tank in two.

[Weasel1960]

This may not be the right forum but will start here because it has to do with seahorses.

I am zeroing in on how I want to do my one and only tank build. Due to limited space it will likely be a single tank of 72” if I can make this work...

I am considering dividing the tank with a black or obscure glass of about 1/4” thick so 2/3 is reef for fish and 1/3 for seahorses. I plan on keeping the two environments independent of each other. Alyssa from Seahorse Savvy cautioned me about the temperature difference.

i am wondering the following:
1. Have any of you done something similar, successfully, issues?
2. If I use 1/4” glass is that thick enough to separate the temperature differential?
3. If not would directing flow at the glass be sufficient to keep water circulating so it isn’t building up heat?
4. What about sandwiching two smaller panes with a thin layer of pond foam insulation?

Other thoughts and suggestions greatly appreciated. Separate tanks is still a consideration however then I begin sacrificing volume to not exceed length.

 

[ichthyogeek]

So for 2, you're gonna have to deal with physics. Specifically basic thermodynamics. The seahorse tank is going to be constantly accepting heat from the glass which will accept heat from the reef tank, which will geneerate the heat via heaters.

3. Heat will build up unless you remove it (via chillers, evaporation, etc.). Due to how water flows in the tanks, there will be heat transfer. Which leads us to

4. Air is a great insulator. If you were to, say, have a small 1/4" gap between the two tanks created by the panes (i.e. not pond foam insulation, just the two smaller panes), and ran a small air current through it, that would be the most optimal situation.

You might have better luck posting this in the DIY forum!

 

[Weasel1960]

So for 2, you're gonna have to deal with physics. Specifically basic thermodynamics. The seahorse tank is going to be constantly accepting heat from the glass which will accept heat from the reef tank, which will geneerate the heat via heaters.

3. Heat will build up unless you remove it (via chillers, evaporation, etc.). Due to how water flows in the tanks, there will be heat transfer. Which leads us to

4. Air is a great insulator. If you were to, say, have a small 1/4" gap between the two tanks created by the panes (i.e. not pond foam insulation, just the two smaller panes), and ran a small air current through it, that would be the most optimal situation.

You might have better luck posting this in the DIY forum!

Thanks for the reply and helpful information. What if I left it at a single pane, let the heat from the main tank supply the seahorse side and had a small heater on the sea horse side as a backup set to the lower end of their comfort range?

 

[ThePurple12]

I'm not sure this is completely true, but I read in a CORAL magazine that if a non heated tank has one pane of glass touching a heated tank, the non heated will be 1 degree lower than the heated. It might not work out. Why not just get 2 separate tanks?

Edit: I just saw your reason for not getting 2 separate tanks, although I still think that would be a better idea. Also, unless your house gets really cold, room temp of around 68 degrees works fine for seahorses, no heater necessary

Edit 2: seahorses can also do well at temps above 74, it's just much more work and risk.

 

[ichthyogeek]

Thanks for the reply and helpful information. What if I left it at a single pane, let the heat from the main tank supply the seahorse side and had a small heater on the sea horse side as a backup set to the lower end of their comfort range?

Then you would almost consistently have two tanks, one maybe 2-3 degrees lower than the other.

From my understanding, the reason most tropical (subtropical/temperate horses like abdominalis, kuda, etc don’t apply) seahorses need a lower temperature, is more to do with bacterial control rather than comfort of the fish. If you can control that bacteria (protein skimming, starving the harmful bacteria of nutrients, adding in good bacteria, etc.), the temperature isn’t going to be as much of an issue. But you’ll always have to be vigilant about making sure they don’t get sick.

 

[Weasel1960]

I'm not sure this is completely true, but I read in a CORAL magazine that if a non heated tank has one pane of glass touching a heated tank, the non heated will be 1 degree lower than the heated. It might not work out. Why not just get 2 separate tanks?

Edit: I just saw your reason for not getting 2 separate tanks, although I still think that would be a better idea. Also, unless your house gets really cold, room temp of around 68 degrees works fine for seahorses, no heater necessary

Edit 2: seahorses can also do well at temps above 74, it's just much more work and risk.

I have just enough room in the “L” of the stairs between levels, front entry and bedroom hallway to put a maximum sized stand about 77” long and 36” wide. If doing multiple tanks I have to account for multiple frames, space for cleaning between tanks etc. basically drops the size of both tanks down. A 125 gallon fits as does a 180 I might be able to get my hands on. Will just have to continue plugging away trying to optimize my space and tank wants/wishes. Thanks for you advice.

 

[Weasel1960]

Then you would almost consistently have two tanks, one maybe 2-3 degrees lower than the other.

From my understanding, the reason most tropical (subtropical/temperate horses like abdominalis, kuda, etc don’t apply) seahorses need a lower temperature, is more to do with bacterial control rather than comfort of the fish. If you can control that bacteria (protein skimming, starving the harmful bacteria of nutrients, adding in good bacteria, etc.), the temperature isn’t going to be as much of an issue. But you’ll always have to be vigilant about making sure they don’t get sick.

Yes I have been reading about that as well. I would obviously prefer to take as much extra work out of the husbandry as possible by keeping as close to natural requirements as I can. Thanks for the info and will keep looking at pre-build problem solving as much as possible.

 

[Weasel1960]

#MODS can my original post be duplicated in the DIY forum?

 

[xxkenny90xx]

I would say do the single pane and see how the heat works out. If needed go double pane as mentioned above.

Also there is nothing wrong with running your reef around 75 degrees. To help with the temp difference I'd run the reef as cold as possible

 

[ichthyogeek]

I would say do the single pane and see how the heat works out. If needed go double pane as mentioned above.

Also there is nothing wrong with running your reef around 75 degrees. To help with the temp difference I'd run the reef as cold as possible

Just curious but....how would one add a second pane in a very wet aquarium?

 

[xxkenny90xx]

Just curious but....how would one add a second pane in a very wet aquarium?

Lol good question. I just meant to fill it and heat the one side and see what kind of heat transfer was happening. Not to actually set up a reef and add fish and stuff

 

[ichthyogeek]

Lol good question. I just meant to fill it and heat the one side and see what kind of heat transfer was happening. Not to actually set up a reef and add fish and stuff

Gotcha! Although you'd have to fill both sides up with saltwater because of differences in delta T and thermo stuff that I learned like 6 years ago...

 

[xxkenny90xx]

Gotcha! Although you'd have to fill both sides up with saltwater because of differences in delta T and thermo stuff that I learned like 6 years ago...

Right. I guess I worded that weird. I meant to heat only one side. Not just fill the one side. Definitely fill both sides for the test

 

[Weasel1960]

Thanks for the suggestions, very helpful. Was also just thinking about making a thermal pane. What are your thoughts on having two 1/8” panes with a1/8” gap BUT only silicone the sides and bottom leaving the top open to release any heat gain between the panes. And as Ichty suggested earlier could always fall back on putting a single air tube into the space for circulation. I guess overall that is what Ichty was suggesting in first response.

 

[Weasel1960]

Thanks for the suggestions, very helpful. Was also just thinking about making a thermal pane. What are your thoughts on having two 1/8” panes with a1/8” gap BUT only silicone the sides and bottom leaving the top open to release any heat gain between the panes. And as Ichty suggested earlier could always fall back on putting a single air tube into the space for circulation. I guess overall that is what Ichty was suggesting in first response.

Thanks @ichthyogeek , sorry I shortened your handle and butchered it;Facepalm

 

[ichthyogeek]

Thanks @ichthyogeek , sorry I shortened your handle and butchered it;Facepalm

DW about it, I’ve definitely gotten worse butcherings (Somebody once called me “ichy”, last I checked my username didn’t involve disease )

 

[Daniel@R2R]

Moved this thread to DIY so our #DIYwizards can help out. Interesting idea! I agree that insulation of some kind would be needed. Based on the size tank you're planning to go with, I'm thinking 3/8" panes would be the smallest I'd try due to the pressure/weight of 60-90 gallons of water in each side. I'm basing that on the size glass typically used in aquariums that size, but I'm certain some of the guys in here will have better answers.

 

[NeonRabbit221B]

Here is an idea. Build a tank divider out of egg crate and pond foam. You can texture it to make it look like rock work and the foam will drastically reduce heat transfer. There is an article on foam walls here that is a great guide.

You can silicone it in and remove it later if you want to reuse the tank.

 

[KorD]

If you were to leave an air gap between two panes of glass the thermal radiation will not happen because of the air gap, you can technically run two systems in one. (gap should be no less than 1/4" to make that work. One tank being cooler than the other.
But the question-arises, will you be setting up two filtration units and also running it as two separate tanks?
Also why worry about making a barrier. a seahorse tank operates near a coral tanks temps, just make sure that the temp is a couple degrees below the seahorse high side. Corals cal survive in temps as low as 64 degrees.

 

[najer]

Someone remind me to reply to this tomorrow, England, lights nearly off, my twins are almost exactly like the op's post, 3/5 - 2/5 divided and in current config due to leaks the small side runs cooler?!