Hello everyone. I am going to be completely starting over my reef system as i have been overrun with hair and dinos and have reached my end of trying to scrub and skim and clean and what nots so i am going to completely start over so i am going to get new sand and more than likely new rock but i was wanting something to run through the system to clean the sump and pumps and what not so to not carry and of this god forsaken crap over
starting over due to algae
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Miami Reef
Reef Chem Enthusiast
I was afraid you’d say that.
Even if you bleach the tank, the dinos will come right back to the tank since they are attached to the coral skeletons.
I can help you pass the dino stage without needing to bleach and reset.
GARRIGA
2500 Club Member
I'd take a breath before nuking that unwanted. Why I say this? Had a run in with dinos, my first, got so bad thought about going back to just FW. My first SW was in the 80s therefore this wasn't a light consideration. Issue was upgrading my lights to double intensity and wanting to test GHA as means of a Fuge vs just ATS. It's always present and might as well utilize it since nature does. Only aquarist feel sorry they have it.
Since this was a test tank it allows me to experiment with that I wouldn't dare try in the main. Read where higher temps and silica helped along with iron. Therefore after a weekend of removing algae infested rocks and replacing with that sitting in the garage as well as stirring the gravel and using a canister to remove as much as possible I then setup my diy HOB Fuge after a five day blackout and hoped for the best along with nightly peroxide dosing. It worked. Can't say exactly what solved Dino and kept my cyano in check to just areas of low flow but hope restored and showed some elbow grease and imagination worked.
In retrospect, didn't need to change the rocks out. Toothbrush likely good enough. Proved once again balance needed and scrubbing silicates likely not best. Maintaining iron levels might have helped. Increased temps too. Point being try each in order of least detriment to occupants then if all fails the nuke option still exists. Sadly my CUC got wiped out and not sure was it the dinos or perhaps my glass and turf algae gone due to GHA taking over and they starved to death. I consider this last possibility because gone were my blue legged hermit, astaea and margaritas. Those margaritas were breeding and there from the start yet my nassarius lived on.
Food for thought before the irreversible attempted.
Since this was a test tank it allows me to experiment with that I wouldn't dare try in the main. Read where higher temps and silica helped along with iron. Therefore after a weekend of removing algae infested rocks and replacing with that sitting in the garage as well as stirring the gravel and using a canister to remove as much as possible I then setup my diy HOB Fuge after a five day blackout and hoped for the best along with nightly peroxide dosing. It worked. Can't say exactly what solved Dino and kept my cyano in check to just areas of low flow but hope restored and showed some elbow grease and imagination worked.
In retrospect, didn't need to change the rocks out. Toothbrush likely good enough. Proved once again balance needed and scrubbing silicates likely not best. Maintaining iron levels might have helped. Increased temps too. Point being try each in order of least detriment to occupants then if all fails the nuke option still exists. Sadly my CUC got wiped out and not sure was it the dinos or perhaps my glass and turf algae gone due to GHA taking over and they starved to death. I consider this last possibility because gone were my blue legged hermit, astaea and margaritas. Those margaritas were breeding and there from the start yet my nassarius lived on.
Food for thought before the irreversible attempted.
Miami Reef
Reef Chem Enthusiast
Sure. I’d like to help. I have a lot of experience with treating dinos.
Since yours seem to be persistent, I’d like to use an aggressive approach.
I’d like to treat the Dinos since they can be toxic. The hair algae can be managed with a clean up crew and occasionally manual removal.
Step 1: Install a UV sterilizer. At least 1 watt per 3 gallons. This will sterilize dinos that free float at night.
Step 2: Ensure phosphate is at least 0.10ppm at all times. Never let it drop below 0.10ppm.
Step 3: Ensure nitrates are at least 2ppm.
Step 4: Do not carbon dose. This includes vinegar, vodka, NP bacto balance, NOPOX etc.
Step 5: No amino acids
Step 6: Feed fish food normally to keep your fish and corals happy with the nutrients produced.
Step 7: Skimming is a good idea. Also use activated carbon (BRS ROX 0.8 is best). Use less and change every 2 weeks.
Step 8: Ensure flow is strong. The coral’s polyps should visibly sway through the current.
Your tank will become very clear, healthy, and the corals will be happy. The dinos should quickly dwindle away.
Keep us posted. I’m confident this can significantly help.
Troylee
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That’s not correct… I moved all my corals and fish from a dino infested tank Into my current display with zero issues! I’ve even helped save corals for people who were losing them to Dino’s in my tank and zero issues… I wouldn’t use the rock or sand but live stock is fine.
GARRIGA
2500 Club Member
I wouldn't stop feeding. Corals need food and never been a fan of starving the tank to control nuisance algae. Starting to feel stronger about need for more CUC. How nature solves algae. Starving doesn't exist.
UVC with that peroxide at night long enough to handle one tank turnover might solve any dino that is free swimming. Goal is add the peroxide and letting mix and devolved before tuning on the UVC. My assumption being every droplet that contains peroxide will oxidize any pathogens once in contact with UVC.
Another option is running DE at night or low micron filtration that will capture pathogens such as dino then removed and bleached. For me I'm experimenting with peroxide and UVC as that can be deployed with ease without the need to clean filters later which will clog quickly unless in series from coarse to fine which just adds more complexity.
HumbleFish been experimenting with peroxide and I've pushed their limits although not with corals but did have CUC and no issues seen. This was without UVC to dissipate the overdose of peroxide yet by morning all was gone which meant very likely decomposition vs light. Proceed with caution as too much likely detrimental but then so is just about everything we use including lights and flow.
UVC with that peroxide at night long enough to handle one tank turnover might solve any dino that is free swimming. Goal is add the peroxide and letting mix and devolved before tuning on the UVC. My assumption being every droplet that contains peroxide will oxidize any pathogens once in contact with UVC.
Another option is running DE at night or low micron filtration that will capture pathogens such as dino then removed and bleached. For me I'm experimenting with peroxide and UVC as that can be deployed with ease without the need to clean filters later which will clog quickly unless in series from coarse to fine which just adds more complexity.
HumbleFish been experimenting with peroxide and I've pushed their limits although not with corals but did have CUC and no issues seen. This was without UVC to dissipate the overdose of peroxide yet by morning all was gone which meant very likely decomposition vs light. Proceed with caution as too much likely detrimental but then so is just about everything we use including lights and flow.
Miami Reef
Reef Chem Enthusiast
Well that’s obvious. The other tank didn’t have the environment to allow the dinos to thrive. Did you bleach the tank before the transfer? I bet you’d have a completely different outcome.
Corals and snail shells is literally like adding rock. If you bleach and sterilize your tank and then add corals that used to have dino cells on them, it’s a prime environment for the dinos to thrive just like before.
Troylee
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I did not! I had my 60gal cube infested and set up my 300 with a little bit of new live rock and a bunch of dry rock and moved them over in the first 24 hours and never looked back! I broke the cube down with Dino’s and sold it all off with dry rock. Zero issues with that tank after it was set up also.
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