Stylophora Problems

[NSS]

I bought this Purple Stylophora (I assume it's a Stylophora) from a neglected tank 4 weeks ago. Base was brown and skeleton was showing on several branches. I cut off bad areas. Here in my tank it is not getting any better, maybe even worse? Tips are still fluffy. Branches still have some flesh on them but very thin and almost no polyp extending except the tips.
I have a green Pavona next to it and that is doing well. All other Soft and LPS and BTA in tank are doing well.
My AI Prime is set to 70% (BRS light schedule) and should be setup for an LPS tank. My Stylphora is right under the light fixture about 12.5-inches below (8.5-inches to water surface + 4-inches water). 12 hours photo period with ramp up and ramp down. Flow is medium.
What is the issue here? Too much light? Not enought light? Is it acclimating from the other tank?
I feed Aquaforest Pure Food for SPS (besides the food for my other coral and fish) and dose Microbelift All-in-one trace elements and I dose Plus-NP to provide Nitrate and Phosphate.

20G Nano (12 months old tank)
Ai Prime & AI Nero3
Canister filter with carbon, silicate remover and mechanical filtration
Chaeto reactor (set to night schedule)
Nitrate 0.0
Phos 0.0
PH 8.1
Alk 8
Calcium 400
Mag 1900 (can't get it any lower)

 

[firechild]

Looks to be Pocillopora damicornis (same family as Stylophora - Pocilloporidae). It may not be too much or too little light but a reaction to a change in light intensity. Have you tested the PAR?

 

[fishface NJ]

Did you dip it with a coral dip?

You stated you are using silicate removal. Are you using a product that contains granular ferric oxide (GFO) and aluminuum oxide? Reason I ask is that you posted Phos 0.0. You also have Nitrate 0.0. Both of these are not good for your corals. They would starve, and you are looking for problems like dino. Why do you have a chaeto reactor?

 

[NSS]

Looks to be Pocillopora damicornis (same family as Stylophora - Pocilloporidae). It may not be too much or too little light but a reaction to a change in light intensity. Have you tested the PAR?

Thanks for the response.
I have a simple PAR meter on my smartphone that is reading 110PAR at the top of the coral.

 

[NSS]

Did you dip it with a coral dip?

You stated you are using silicate removal. Are you using a product that contains granular ferric oxide (GFO) and aluminuum oxide? Reason I ask is that you posted Phos 0.0. You also have Nitrate 0.0. Both of these are not good for your corals. They would starve, and you are looking for problems like dino. Why do you have a chaeto reactor?

I used to have problems getting my nitrates under control and had bad algae problems. since I have the chaeto reactor i can get the nitrates under control. I try to follow the high input high output method, that is why i dose the NP-Plus. The silicate remover is because I'm using tap water. Here in my country we have very pure water except some slight silicate. My soft and LPS and anemone seem to like the system setup.
I agree with the dino. That is my only tank issue that I have problems with.

 

[NSS]

Did you dip it with a coral dip?

You stated you are using silicate removal. Are you using a product that contains granular ferric oxide (GFO) and aluminuum oxide? Reason I ask is that you posted Phos 0.0. You also have Nitrate 0.0. Both of these are not good for your corals. They would starve, and you are looking for problems like dino. Why do you have a chaeto reactor?

sorry... about the dip: no i did not dip it. I had it in a quarantine tank for 1 week and everything looked like it was ok.

 

[firechild]

Thanks for the response.
I have a simple PAR meter on my smartphone that is reading 110PAR at the top of the coral.

That's probably a little low, I wonder how accurate the PAR meter on your phone is. I agree though that 0 NO3 and PO4 is probably not ideal. If you are using tap water and just a silicate adsorption media, are you sure there is no chlorine or chloramine in the water supply?

 

[NSS]

That's probably a little low, I wonder how accurate the PAR meter on your phone is. I agree though that 0 NO3 and PO4 is probably not ideal. If you are using tap water and just a silicate adsorption media, are you sure there is no chlorine or chloramine in the water supply?

Up to now I have assumed that zero/zero but dosing Nitrate and Phosphate and considering my zoas and leathers are happy, that my tank should actually be balanced. I'm new to the hobby and I welcome any advice though.
I could ramp up my light to get more PAR, but I figured better have a bit too low light than too high while these SPS are new in the tank.
The PAR meter on the phone is all I have. Here I cannot rent one unfortunately.

 

[NSS]

That's probably a little low, I wonder how accurate the PAR meter on your phone is. I agree though that 0 NO3 and PO4 is probably not ideal. If you are using tap water and just a silicate adsorption media, are you sure there is no chlorine or chloramine in the water supply?

I did a lab test of my tap water parameters. Everything looks good. And I do use water conditioner when I mix my saltwater.

 

[firechild]

Up to now I have assumed that zero/zero but dosing Nitrate and Phosphate and considering my zoas and leathers are happy, that my tank should actually be balanced. I'm new to the hobby and I welcome any advice though.
I could ramp up my light to get more PAR, but I figured better have a bit too low light than too high while these SPS are new in the tank.
The PAR meter on the phone is all I have. Here I cannot rent one unfortunately.

It's a good assumption that too little is better than too much. I'd recommend working up to around 200 PAR at minimum. Zoanthids and leather corals are far more resilient and will do better when nutrients are lacking than will most SPS. A chaeto reactor may not be the best option at the moment while your nutrients are already low. Alternately, increase your NP dosing.