Tank Trials: Ultra Low Maintenance Tanks | BRStv Investigates

[pdiehm]

Tank Trials: Ultra Low Maintenance Tanks Ep-1 | BRStv Investigates

This week's questions:

-What does ULM mean to you and what do you hope to see related to that?

-What brand, size and shape of tank do you think qualifies as a ULM tank and why?

ULM: I spend less than 30 minutes a week on the tank. Feed it, clean the glass, fill the ATO, and clean the skimmer.

Brand: Use something that 99% of the hobby uses. A basic 40 Gallon Breeder from Petco. It's essentially a great size to start with, small enough that it doesn't cost an arm and a leg to set up. Drill it for a basic overflow, with a 20 long, or 40 breeder sump, also of the DIY variety.

 

[JimFuller]

I basically am looking for 75 Gallon to 180 Gallon tanks. Most start with the 75 Gallon then go to the larger tanks. I would like to find a way to have a 75 Gallon tank that is a mixed reef that people can enjoy in my front room. While this may limit or eliminate arcos, it still would support montipora. Other than cleaning the glass, I should not have to do anything in the sump for a month. At the one month point good practices of skimmer cleaning, reactor changes, etc. would be practiced and explained.

I am looking forward to this thread and will watch for more postings. i have liked and subscribed.

 

[randyBRS]

ULM: I spend less than 30 minutes a week on the tank. Feed it, clean the glass, fill the ATO, and clean the skimmer.

Brand: Use something that 99% of the hobby uses. A basic 40 Gallon Breeder from Petco. It's essentially a great size to start with, small enough that it doesn't cost an arm and a leg to set up. Drill it for a basic overflow, with a 20 long, or 40 breeder sump, also of the DIY variety.

I agree, this is a pretty great size to start with. From a water volume standpoint, do you think the 40gal with a sump is the most beneficial option as it relates to dilution and stability? Could larger volume tanks provide even less maintenance as it relates to this standpoint?

-Randy

 

[Phil Cusimano]

Super idea, In my humble opinion, ULM start with rectangular tanks say a 90gal or 120 gallons. the width of the tank being more important with a depth, not exceeding 24" minimal equipment only what is absolutely essential to maintain a healthy reef, almost zero water changes. The thing I'd like to in keep in tune with water chemistry. Once the proper lighting for the tanks has been established. Also it would be nice to see a LPS/SPS tank going from start to finish. Equipment refugium sumps, controller, protein skimmer, LED/T5 lighting combo, dosing pumps

 

[Mandelstam]

I'm new to reefing so don't have much input as to what choices to make but I do have one thing I'd like to add. To me the idea of low maintenance is not just to automate everything. Even if you outsource the maintenance to a machine it's still chores that has to me done. I mean, hiring a pool boy doesn't automatically make your pool zero maintenance. To me ULM is a system that sort of manages itself to a large degree without the need of expensive controllers. And with this approach I think your results will be of value to a lot more people who don't have the finances to spend on lots of hi tec fancy equipment.

Looking forward to your results!

 

[pdiehm]

I agree, this is a pretty great size to start with. From a water volume standpoint, do you think the 40gal with a sump is the most beneficial option as it relates to dilution and stability? Could larger volume tanks provide even less maintenance as it relates to this standpoint?

-Randy

@randyBRS

Yes. I think the 40/40 would provide the necessary stability for the low maintenance. The reality is, it would about 30 gallons in the sump, maybe a little less. With it being low maintenance, in theory you should be able to catch a downward trend with a weekly testing.

With the 20 long sump, it basically adds 10 gallons and you are limited to what skimmer is used, because the 20 is...what? 12 inches across?

Also the 40’can be lit by the cheapest T5. The sunblaze 24 can light the tank easily. I know this because my QT is lit by that light.

 

[jasonrusso]

Would love less maintenance. Some days that's all I have time for.

 

[RudyB]

This is great. As a person who travels for 6 months out of a year this is awesome. I have been modifying what I do and how. I have not done a water change for close to a year now. I have been running kind off a Triton method but using the Red Sea Coral Colors and Reef Energy to do it.

150 gal mixed reef

1 - Refugium as main nutrient export.
2 - protein skimmer
3 - Chato, GFO/Carbon mix, moving away from bio pellets (soon to stop using) changes little by little.
4 - 10 gal auto top off. Using the Tunze Osmolator Kalk Dispenser 5074 and BRS Kalk. The 10g give me 8 days of evaporation.
5 - Dosing pumps for the Magnesium and the Coral Colors, The reef energy by hand. May switch to Triton for ease.
6 - Inhabitants to do most of the cleanup.
7 - Auto feeder with a mix of pellets, Reef Chili and Reef Roids. Technically don't need to feed frozen but I still do. When I go away they only get the feeder.

That's it. I make changes very slow. I hope to reach a level that I don't need to clean the glass that often. Right now it is every four days.
I have used a lot of ideas from you and looking forward to even more. Like you said not every tank is the same so I modify your ideas based on my tank and budget. Keep up the great work.

 

[Reef Monkie]

If you don't at least test out a skimmerless non-gfo system based purely on a refugium and/or bacterial nutrient control (carbon media wouldn't be cheating) I will never buy from BRS again! Bonus points for also not doing water changes..

Ok, I live in Europe so that is a pretty empty threat but still, there is empirical data that skimmers aren't that effective (see the Advanced Aquarist website) so I think that would be a really interesting test that we haven't seen yet and skimmers do require maintenance.

p.s. expand into Europe already, it is a massive market and it lacks a similar service.

 

[Upstartreefer]

Perfect time BRS. Getting ready to set up my 220. I am also going with the triton method. On this tank I am planning on sticking to the K.I.S.S. methodology of things. Thanks for everything you do.

 

[Fr4nkthet4nk]

Those guys are the best.

 

[Newb73]

Small volume is too unstable to be low maintenance IMO.

Although you could maintain it on Nothing but water changes i suppose.

 

[Muhib]

Welcome to BRStv Investigates - Tank Trials, a new series where we take everything we know about reefing, develop some methods and theories and put them to the test on real reef tanks!

To get this new series started we will be striving to create the ultimate Ultra Low Maintenance (ULM) tank setup for three tank types; Softies & Polyps; LPS; and SPS dominant!

What's even better about this series is that YOU, the Reefing Community, will drive the conversation as well have direct input in how we approach the Tank Trials series! Throughout this series we will be relying on the Reef2Reef and YouTube community to give your input on what qualifies as a ULM from everything like ULM sump design, ULM ATO and much more!

So, get ready to join the next evolution of BRStv with BRStv Investigates: Tank Trials!


Ep-1: Tank Trials: Ultra Low Maintenance Tanks Ep-1 | BRStv Investigates

Ep-2: Up coming...

It would be better if you guys can do ULM video in all in one tank.

 

[siggy]

Sounds as if the first task would be to find a tank size that would benefit stability and yet is common and affordable 40-100=65-75 gallon
sump, skimmer, ato+ = cabinet 36"

 

[Newb73]

Sounds as if the first task would be to find a tank size that would benifit stability and yet is common and affordable 50-100=75?

A 6ft long 150-180 would be minimum if you are serious about hobby.

The tank itself will be the least of your expenses anyway imo.

If you don't have room for 6ft they make some pretty nifty 4ft cubes that hold a descent amount of water.

 

[beaslbob]

Small volume is too unstable to be low maintenance IMO.

Although you could maintain it on Nothing but water changes i suppose.

IMHO in less you have access to infinite saltwater like live near the ocean and can do 100% water changes per day, water changes will limit but not correct/maintain the system. You must balance out and stabilize the system to keep things inline. Once that is done water changes are irrelevant.

 

[Pntbll687]

Small volume is too unstable to be low maintenance IMO.

Although you could maintain it on Nothing but water changes i suppose.

Or stock it accordingly and not do water changes

 

[Pntbll687]

Great idea for some tanks and different views on reefing!!

I would like to see a larger tank that is softie/lps. And filter socks, skimmer, and fuge is all it needs. And an ATO

 

[wopadobop]

What does low maintenance mean to me ?

Less than 5 minutes a day other than feeding and less than 20 on weekends .

120 gallon with trigger system sump.
Eco tech L1 pump
No socks or roller mat
No SAND!
2x Maxspect gyre 250s
Kessil h380 Refugium light
Mixed algae bed
Ghl doser ( running Triton)
Brs 1.1 ml doser for nitrates ( yeah I said it )
Neptune controller
10 gallon top off tank
Neptune atk

Skimmer can have a skimmate tank with a float valve to shut down when full.

Algae bed should have algae’s that tangs and fox faces will eat.

That’s pretty much it .

Feed tank twice daily . Use the nitrate doser to control phosphates .

Maybe a carbon reactor ? For water clarity and par stability ? Meh debatable .

 

[siggy]

A 6ft long 150-180 would be minimum if you are serious about hobby.

A 6' tank with automation and livestock is the price of a Boat, add scuba tanks and you have a zero maintenance ocean tank