Temporary UV technique for ich

[SantaMonica]

This technique is simple: Keep a strong UV (such as 57 watts or more) and water pump in storage, and when you encounter ich then put the UV and water pump in a for a few weeks. When ich is gone, remove the UV and store it again. Has worked for me 5 times in a row, if I start using it as soon as any ich is seen.

 

[MnFish1]

This technique is simple: Keep a strong UV (such as 57 watts or more) and water pump in storage, and when you encounter ich then put the UV and water pump in a for a few weeks. When ich is gone, remove the UV and store it again. Has worked for me 5 times in a row, if I start using it as soon as any ich is seen.

I'm curious - Can you give a rec for tank size and pump size? One problem is that CI (Ich) - tends to come and go either way. But the real question - what seems to happen to 'bring it back' - and if its still coming back - why not leave it on longer? Thanks!!

 

[ScottB]

The temp UV setup is also handy for some dinoflagellate outbreaks (specie dependent).

This PVC setup makes it super easy to just slap on the side when the need arises.

I also agree with the OP; get an oversized UV. One watt for every three gallons. Ignore manufacturer guidance -- at least if your are using it temporarily. For full time use you should probably follow guidance.

 

[MnFish1]

The temp UV setup is also handy for some dinoflagellate outbreaks (specie dependent).

This PVC setup makes it super easy to just slap on the side when the need arises.

I also agree with the OP; get an oversized UV. One watt for every three gallons. Ignore manufacturer guidance -- at least if your are using it temporarily. For full time use you should probably follow guidance.

Edited - Sorry - I read your recommendation as 3 watts per gallon lol - that would be a lot of UV

 

[Tamberav]

The temp UV setup is also handy for some dinoflagellate outbreaks (specie dependent).

This PVC setup makes it super easy to just slap on the side when the need arises.

I also agree with the OP; get an oversized UV. One watt for every three gallons. Ignore manufacturer guidance -- at least if your are using it temporarily. For full time use you should probably follow guidance.

Why one watt for every 3 gallons? Shouldn’t it be based off flow?

 

[ScottB]

Why one watt for every 3 gallons? Shouldn’t it be based off flow?

Fair point. There are two interdependent levers to pull: wattage and flow rate. With a high wattage light, you can turn the tank water over more frequently. With a smaller wattage light, you have to slow the flow down significantly to increase contact time.

The manufacturers make their recommendations based on treating bacteria, microalgae and protozoa. But not based on the wattage and contact time that is needed to damage an armored protist like some dinoflagellates.

1:3 is just a suggested ballpark sizing appropriate for cooking dinos. I've gotten by okay with slightly less, but there others that have not. Mileage can vary.

 

[SantaMonica]

Can you give a rec for tank size and pump size

No not really; only done that size.

One problem is that CI (Ich) - tends to come and go either way. But the real question - what seems to happen to 'bring it back' -

Yes ick is always around; it just kicks in when immunity goes down. Good example, I had a powder blue tang forever in a reef pond with no problem; one day he jumped out and after I put him back in he covered in ick. Quick UV solved it in a few days. Nothing else changed.

and if its still coming back - why not leave it on longer

You certainly can, and many do for fish-only and retail displays. But UV kills a lots of microbes which corals eat, and the microbes also feed larger pods. And, just the killing of these microbes adds nutrients to the water as they die off.

This PVC setup makes it super easy to just slap on

Very neat setup... a HOUV

3 watts per gallon lol - that would be a lot of UV

Yes, and I had between 1 and 2. But the faster you can kill everything in the water, the better a temporary setup will work.

 

[MnFish1]

Fair point. There are two interdependent levers to pull: wattage and flow rate. With a high wattage light, you can turn the tank water over more frequently. With a smaller wattage light, you have to slow the flow down significantly to increase contact time.

The manufacturers make their recommendations based on treating bacteria, microalgae and protozoa. But not based on the wattage and contact time that is needed to damage an armored protist like some dinoflagellates.

1:3 is just a suggested ballpark sizing appropriate for cooking dinos. I've gotten by okay with slightly less, but there others that have not. Mileage can vary.

I think this is very complicated - since - the flow through the UV has to be enough to kill as fast as the (frankly - I always mix up the names of the different lifecycles) - but kill the free-swimming 'parasites' - I have heard that people have used like a pond UV - for a 100 gallon tank - and it kills everything. But - its expensive, etc. IMHO - an intermittent UV treatment is not going to be effective - though the OP has experienced some success. Its the same success that people with no UV have. IMHO - the best way to kill parasites - is to just keep it on - and keep it maintained (clean bulb, etc). No offense meant - because at first - I was thinking - yeah - but the timing of flow - and wattage would be impossible to know..

FWIW - IMHO - any UV is going to 'help'. Its not going to hurt.

 

[Mywifeisgunnakillme]

Sounds like a good idea. Why not just leave the UV running all the time, though? That's what i have done with oversized UV's, follow pentairs flow recommendations. It's pretty cheap to just replace bulbs and clean or replace quartz sleeves, then you don't have to worry fish getting sick in the first place (hopefully; i have not seen ich on any tang since running UV this way...).

 

[angelsandtangs]

I run mine 24/7 aqua 80 watt and 57 watt on a 400 gallon system on low flow rate and replace bulbs every 6 months

 

[Malcontent]

I run mine 24/7 aqua 80 watt and 57 watt on a 400 gallon system on low flow rate and replace bulbs every 6 months

You could probably get at least a year out of bulbs.

 

[angelsandtangs]

You could probably get at least a year out of bulbs.

For parasites was recommended every 6 months so I’ve always done that ..

 

[Malcontent]

For parasites was recommended every 6 months so I’ve always done that ..

Can I have your old bulbs?

 

[angelsandtangs]

Can I have your old bulbs?

I throw them out

 

[threebuoys]

My vote is to use the cheapest and largest UV sterilizer you can plumb into your sump return and run it full time for 100% of the water. I've been very happy with my set up. I cannot say conclusively that it has prevented crypto because I haven't had an obvious case in the 18 months I've used the system. I can say that the same system on my freshwater cichlid tank quickly eliminated an algae bloom in the water column. I believe it is unlikely crypto will be completely eradicated because I don't think it is possible to set up a system in such a way the 100% of the water will circulate through the system. So always a risk some theronts will remain to start the crypto life cycle all over again. But I believe it will still provide a meaningful level of protection against water-borne parasites and bacteria at a very low cost.

Some info about UV sterilization

Germicidal UV Dose UV Irradiation Dosage Table​

Germicidal UV dose table shows the UV dose needed to inactivate germs
www.americanairandwater.com

quote from above article:

"Please note that many variables (air flow, humidity, distance of microorganism to the UV light, irradiation time) take place in a real world environment that make actual calculating of the UV dosage very difficult. However, it is proven that UV light will kill any DNA-based microorganism given enough UV dosage. UV breaks down DNA on a cumulative basis. Therefore, as air circulates through the ductwork of an HVAC system containing an UV light, the UV light continuously disinfects the air. If a microorganism is not effectively deactivated on the first pass through the ductwork, the UV light will continue to break its DNA down on subsequent passes. Microorganisms do not sit in a static environment in HVAC systems except on coils which can be exposed to UV light also. Microorganisms multiply rapidly if not controlled. The UV light helps to reduce airborne microorganisms from the indoor environment."

I recognize the above was written with concern for the sterilization of air, but air is just a different type of fluid and I believe the statements are just as relevant to water.

So , assume the following:

UV device holds 1 gallon of water,
return pump operates at 125 gallon per hour,
therefore, each gallon of water is exposed for (60minutes x60 seconds)/125 gallons=28.8 seconds per gallon per hour

Now, assume the return pump operates at a flow rate of 10x per hour,
therefore, each gallon of water is STILL exposed to 28.8 seconds per hour
60 minutes x 60 seconds = 3,600 seconds
3,600 seconds/10 = 360 seconds per cycle
360 seconds per cycle / 125 gallons = 2.88 seconds per gallon per cycle
2.88 seconds per cycle x 10 cycles per hour = 28.8 seconds per gallon per hour... imagine that

So, single cell bacteria that replicate every 20 minutes are exposed and sterilized once every 6 minutes preventing rapid reproduction, and
Multi-cell parasites are exposed 28.8 seconds per hour x (? hours to replicate{I know, I don't have this value yet to complete the calculation}) and sterilized preventing their rapid reproduction.

Also keep in mind that almost all of the devices used for aquariums use the same UV replacement bulbs.
So, I suggest you opt for the highest wattage unit you can find and set the return rate for what you require for your filtration. The UV will only affect the organisms found in the water column. So, only the free swimming parasites will be rendered sterile, but that's still good, and bacteria and algae in the water column will be sterilized to boot.

My belief is that many of the vendors of these devices fail to recognize the fact that aquariums are closed systems and cumulative exposure due to high turnover rates is just as effective as one time exposure when no turnover occurs (as in municipal and industrial water systems.)