The iridis would probably be fine though I haven’t owned an adult. Maybe @i cant think and @OrionN can comment
The Wrasse Lover's Thread!
- Thread starter Breakin Newz
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OrionN
Anemones
H. iridis is fine. Very mild temper wrasse. My pair never bother anybody.
My China Wrasse
My China Wrasse
I would probably rehome the melanurus and stock an iridis, a leopard, an isosceles, and a pair of pinkies or and/or a possum in the 50 cube. Isosceles and pinkies first, or make sure the Halichoeres/Macropharyngodon are smaller females. Mel is too much of a wild card for me.
Crabby48
7500 Club Member
Many reason a new fish hide. Mostly not acclimated to tank life and stress of it and other tank mates. Also your time zone. The good is wrasse that’s to weak or to sick doesn’t have the strength to burry in sand. She or he will come out when tank is dark to eat left overs and pods and even nori if left in the tank. Life finds away. Never forget fish can fear is and we can keep them hiding so don’t try to hover over the tank when it comes out.
We will be waiting for updates and pictures.
tbrown
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Coris CrabiliciousCaught a wrasse today! ID please
Definitely a Coris.
Crabby48
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Yes! It’s a Cori’s throbbing people eater discover recently of the coast of Thailand.
Happy to see you pay attention @JoJosReef
No white glove?
Currently still from the 40 long:
-Male and female pink streaks
-Blue star leopard
-Splendid pencil
-Exquisite fairy
Passed due to jumping: brunneus fairy (through a gap in lid), yellow chrysus (through 1" square feeding hole accidentally left open). Also lost a yasha goby through screen lid--now have all polycarb, and firefish (old age, believed) and tailspot blenny (possibly old age as well).
New additions to the 83gal upgrade:
-Juvenile ~1.25" royal flasher wrasse
-Male lineopunctatus linespot flasher wrasse
-One spot foxface
-Copperband butterfly (eating Aiptasia, live white worms, frozen mysis, and freeze dried black worms... Only target feeding by hand!)
Possible additions (added to QT this week):
-bathyphilus fairy wrasse ~2.75"
-small china pearl black back Anampses neoguinaicus
-female ~1.75" rhomboid fairy
Coming from Biota soon-ish:
-mandarin
That's maxed out, probably pushing for another upgrade!!
Edit for clarity:
40Long was broken down in January and everything moved to the 48"x20"x20" 83gal.
Crabby48
7500 Club Member
Haha don’t be that guy as hands are bad for them. Proper nets are way worse. Stress and for their coat to say the least. Had a long talk with a biologist that a wrasse lady and she even giggled about white glove. Yes it’s not best bare hand but yet it’s not best to get info from forums so…..
sometimes you need to say **** it in life and scratch that wrasse bareback
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Crabby48
7500 Club Member
Sorry for loss. Jumpers are spooked or stress. Messed up part is what you had and what jumped goes against what many say. If they want out they find away sadly.
I willl say the exquisite are jerks! Awesome you got the new tank up and running.
China and friend watch them. They pinch behind head not good and if they pick at tail it’s way to late for them. Fairy’s are easy to see pinch unlike leopards and Anampses are easier to miss. CBB it’s just behind and above the head they need to hold weight. Mandarin are easy and do great in copper power if needed. Don’t listen to they can’t do copper as that’s bs. I’ll prove it all day long as other will also.
If you want my opinion or advice I’ll give it but know you have a guy. If you pm my I would give you my contact info.
Crabby48
7500 Club Member
A few months back I almost pulled the trigger on a 400 to replace my 220. Man reason was a found a potters that been in captivity 2 years before Hawaii closed. I talked to him and said the chances he will survive the move is slim. He decided to remove and re’home the fish that were the problem for potters. Losing my potters and the reason was what made me loose interest in hobby but I will never risk a fish life for what I want vs what is best for them and happy the gentleman took my advice. Established or older wrasse do poorly with moves and why I always saay get them young. Also being males makes it had to get along with others. Potters are not like other leopards. Behavior and mind set of them are much different they are weak but once established tend to be bold and want to dominate but yet it’s from weakness and that’s a bad combo. Earmuffs are very similar to them but more tolerant to daily stress of others and tank life. Potters tend to be only wrasse that don’t like to be in a tank like some tangs that we label ich magnets. Look deeper why and the psychology of the animals and it makes sense whether we wanna believe it or understand it. As keepers we need to understand why people say a wrasse won’t live in captivity long as they will bit people don’t understand why and give them what they need.
These reason are also why @OrionN has lick keeping pairs and me with trios and pairs. Trios will always be safer then pairs and you need to choices wisely live Choats, viviens and china’s. Tank mates and size can help but yet it’s knowing fish and their psychology.
Did you know test have been preformed on fish by injecting a spot of dye. None cared but a cleaner wrasse seen the spot on him in a mirror and tried scratching it off afterwards. More to it but a start of understanding fish. Watch learn and observe how deep it goes with your tank. People have a disconnect with animals and mostly fish but fish, animals and people have way more in Courtney we like to admit. Also why I can get wrasse to transition at will. Learn your animals and what they need and want. Give them a reason to transition even wrasse that are known never to transition in captivity and they will.
Rant over. Laugh or whatever you like but yet proof is in the chocolate pudding
These reason are also why @OrionN has lick keeping pairs and me with trios and pairs. Trios will always be safer then pairs and you need to choices wisely live Choats, viviens and china’s. Tank mates and size can help but yet it’s knowing fish and their psychology.
Did you know test have been preformed on fish by injecting a spot of dye. None cared but a cleaner wrasse seen the spot on him in a mirror and tried scratching it off afterwards. More to it but a start of understanding fish. Watch learn and observe how deep it goes with your tank. People have a disconnect with animals and mostly fish but fish, animals and people have way more in Courtney we like to admit. Also why I can get wrasse to transition at will. Learn your animals and what they need and want. Give them a reason to transition even wrasse that are known never to transition in captivity and they will.
Rant over. Laugh or whatever you like but yet proof is in the chocolate pudding
Crabby48
7500 Club Member
@OrionN is good at keeping coral and fish and their getting them healthy . His methods and tank is big part. Learn from him. Many years ago he opened my eyes and drove me to do and figure out many things the experts said was impossible. TSM aquatics also was big help with the health and keeping fish I was told I can’t in captivity.
Would getting a juvenile iridis and putting it with the melanurus inprove the odds?
Crabby48
7500 Club Member
I disagree and don’t mean to insult. . Iridis, yellow and adorned are chill. Mel’s can be aggressive to other wrasse and fish. Dusty’s and other get big and become jerks. The earmuff uses size to be dominant but are very much teddy bears when it comes push to shove. Facts. A red Cori’s is known to be a jerk but what people don’t see is how bad they can be murderers and even eat coral. Don’t believe outdated info on wrasse past down from generations. The people who known stoped being on forums as no one what’s to hear it
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