Torch dying

Mtvadam

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I have had this torch for about 3 months and it is starting to die. I have had another torch go out like this and have asked around to no answer as to what is happening and if there is anything I can do to stop and prevent this from happening. Any help is very appreciated

Pictures show what is happening

E6711227-72A3-40CA-AF45-1946553A9ABD.jpeg 8E5941DF-5006-4EC4-B6A7-E10307993865.jpeg F720F912-B20C-477C-A71F-CB35B0E344D0.jpeg
 

blaxsun

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The three things I would look at are water parameters, lighting and flow. The position in your tank could be a factor (or not), so if relocation is an option that's something to consider. Have you tried re-dipping it in something like Reef Primer?
 
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Mtvadam

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Water is all set I changed the location just before taking the pictures, so hopefully it will improve but im worried to dip it as it looks to be in a fragile state will it become far more stressed out?
 
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vetteguy53081

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Not dying but receeded. For starters, If you have leather corals, this may be part of the issue. Many leather coral species produce and release toxic chemicals, called terpenes, into the water to protect themselves and to stunt the growth of other species. Many torch owners forget to account for the calcium demand these corals require. If there is insufficient calcium in your aquarium water, these corals will not be able to make their coral skeleton. You should also never lift a torch coral out of the water if you can avoid it. You could tear the polyps, and torn polyps are prone to infection followed by necrosis.
Torches require typical parameters including:
Temp about 78 degrees
Salinity of about 1.025
Ph-t 8.1 to 8.3
Ca level of about 400-440 ppm.

Like most large polyp stony corals, torches benefit from moderate water flow. The polyps will remain retracted and under-inflated if the water current is too fast because the large flowing polyps are prone to rip and tear in high or ultra-high current environments.
Torch corals are photosynthetic coral which have a relationship with symbiotic zooxanthellae (single-cell photosynthetic organisms) that live inside its tissues that converts the light energy into sugar and harvests and feeds the coral. Therefore, it is possible to keep the Torch coral without any feeding at all but bear in mind all corals are animals, and animals are meant to eat. Mysis shrimp is my hoice of food for them.
 
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Mtvadam

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The tank is a waterbox 35 and was started in early january
salinity- 1.025 s.g
ph- 8.2
nitrite - 0
nitrate - 24
ammonia - 0
phosphates -0
Calcium -400

I have a radian x15 pro running 8 hours each day mostly blue
I also have other torches that are flourishing but this one is recovering slightly and looming better after moving it.
I have a powerhead and other torches that love flow but this torch seems to like little flow
 
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FIN&BONEZ

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I would put it in the lowest light lowest flow you can find evan a shaded cave if possible. Dont touch it again until you see major improvement. I've noticed sense back in the hobby that these euphyllias are way more picky than back in the day. Hide it down and let it get its head strait they need so little light dont worry.
 
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vetteguy53081

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The tank is a waterbox 35 and was started in early january
salinity- 1.025 s.g
ph- 8.2
nitrite - 0
nitrate - 24
ammonia - 0
phosphates -0
Calcium -400

I have a radian x15 pro running 8 hours each day mostly blue
I also have other torches that are flourishing but this one is recovering slightly and looming better after moving it.
I have a powerhead and other torches that love flow but this torch seems to like little flow
elevated nitrate and zero ammonia. . . Are you by chance using API kit? I suggest water change of 20% for nitrate reduction and Do not starve it of light. They must as described above have light for energy. Here are Some of my Euphyllia and notice my light intensity. These dont do well with stress and too many changes will further stress it out.

660g 3.30a.jpg
 
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Mtvadam

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I did a water change and yes am using an api test kit. The torch is looking better after moving it to a spot with less flow. Would anyone recommend getting the hanna testers?
 
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vetteguy53081

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I did a water change and yes am using an api test kit. The torch is looking better after moving it to a spot with less flow. Would anyone recommend getting the hanna testers?
Highly recommend Hanna. Salifert is other trustworthy brand.
 
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LeeLoo Lola

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I would put it in the lowest light lowest flow you can find evan a shaded cave if possible. Dont touch it again until you see major improvement. I've noticed sense back in the hobby that these euphyllias are way more picky than back in the day. Hide it down and let it get its head strait they need so little light dont worry.
This has been my go to as well. A few euphyllias have been saved by being moved to a low flow shadier spot for a few months. I’ve been reefing for a long time and also have found that torches in particular have been much more finicky than they once were. I have some on the sand bed in stands that are thriving now. I have other spots I’d like to move them too, but if they’re happy they’re staying where they are.
 
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polyppal

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I would put it in the lowest light lowest flow you can find evan a shaded cave if possible. Dont touch it again until you see major improvement. I've noticed sense back in the hobby that these euphyllias are way more picky than back in the day. Hide it down and let it get its head strait they need so little light dont worry.
I agree, put it at a gentle bottom location, Id treat LPS more like Softies than hit them with intense light/flow like SPS…

should have some phosphates, other than that I don’t see any numbers issues. Also are these wild collected euphyllia? I have found that wild specimens can have an abysmal long term survival rate compared to tank grown, I don’t buy any wild euphyllia anymore. They often look great for a short time then mysteriously die
 
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