TTM question for 5 small tangs

Miami Reef

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Just ordered 5 small tangs from saltwaterfish.com. They are coming in 3 weeks, so I have until then to prepare myself.

I want to do the tank transfer method. I know I need duplicate of all my equipment, but I have a few questions I need answered:

1) Do I need to use a filter? I’m going to be doing 100% water change every 3 days, but the tank will be heavily stocked. I will be using prime for ammonia anyway.

2) Can I use tap water? I have an RODI system, but if I’m changing water every 3 days for a fish only tank, I would want something fast and efficient, especially since I need to match salinity.

3) First time buying fish online. How do I acclimate them since they were probably in the bags with their waste for a few hours. I think I read that the ammonia will become very toxic as soon as I open the bag. Do I float and release in QT? Or drip acclimate?

4) I read that you need to disinfect the entire tank when it’s not in use. How do I fully disinfect the tank? Bleach? Vinegar? Won’t the ich die by itself if I just let the tank and equipment be fully dry outside for the 3 days of inactivity?

Thank you very much for helping me! I’m pretty excited and nervous because this is my first time quarantining newly purchased fish, especially using the TTM.
 

NinnJinn

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Just ordered 5 small tangs from saltwaterfish.com. They are coming in 3 weeks, so I have until then to prepare myself.

I want to do the tank transfer method. I know I need duplicate of all my equipment, but I have a few questions I need answered:

1) Do I need to use a filter? I’m going to be doing 100% water change every 3 days, but the tank will be heavily stocked. I will be using prime for ammonia anyway.

Some people do, some people don't

2) Can I use tap water? I have an RODI system, but if I’m changing water every 3 days for a fish only tank, I would want something fast and efficient, especially since I need to match salinity.

Always use RODI water. And my suggestion would be on day number two set the second tank up full of Rodi thataway you have roughly 24 hours for the water to warm up make sure to keep both tanks at least 10 feet away from each other

3) First time buying fish online. How do I acclimate them since they were probably in the bags with their waste for a few hours. I think I read that the ammonia will become very toxic as soon as I open the bag. Do I float and release in QT? Or drip acclimate?


I just sit the bags in the tank for about a half an hour to 45 minutes.
Be sure to take a little bit of water out of the bag that way you can match the salinity in your tank and then slowly raise salinity once the fish are in the tank

4) I read that you need to disinfect the entire tank when it’s not in use. How do I fully disinfect the tank? Bleach? Vinegar? Won’t the ich die by itself if I just let the tank and equipment be fully dry outside for the 3 days of inactivity?

Bleach or vinegar does not matter just make sure you rinse it really well.
The bleach or vinegar is just to make sure that it is totally sanitized better safe than sorry.
 

Frtdrmrose7

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Just ordered 5 small tangs from saltwaterfish.com. They are coming in 3 weeks, so I have until then to prepare myself.

I want to do the tank transfer method. I know I need duplicate of all my equipment, but I have a few questions I need answered:

1) Do I need to use a filter? I’m going to be doing 100% water change every 3 days, but the tank will be heavily stocked. I will be using prime for ammonia anyway.

2) Can I use tap water? I have an RODI system, but if I’m changing water every 3 days for a fish only tank, I would want something fast and efficient, especially since I need to match salinity.

3) First time buying fish online. How do I acclimate them since they were probably in the bags with their waste for a few hours. I think I read that the ammonia will become very toxic as soon as I open the bag. Do I float and release in QT? Or drip acclimate?

4) I read that you need to disinfect the entire tank when it’s not in use. How do I fully disinfect the tank? Bleach? Vinegar? Won’t the ich die by itself if I just let the tank and equipment be fully dry outside for the 3 days of inactivity?

Thank you very much for helping me! I’m pretty excited and nervous because this is my first time quarantining newly purchased fish, especially using the TTM.
^^ he’s pretty much got you covered but with that many Tangs I’d spend a few bucks on biospira just to help with the bioload.
 
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Miami Reef

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Do you think TTM is the best way to QT? I like this method because it’s fast (only 2 weeks) I don’t need a filter, and I can use prime.

I really don’t like copper. It’s too risky because of the ammonia. With the bio load I have, I’m for sure going to have ammonia.
 
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Miami Reef

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I just sit the bags in the tank for about a half an hour to 45 minutes.
Be sure to take a little bit of water out of the bag that way you can match the salinity in your tank and then slowly raise salinity once the fish are in the tank
I am such a beginner in this field. How do I raise salinity in the tank while the fish are inside? I would much rather have a set salinity for both tanks and get the fish acclimated to my tanks and leave it like that. It would be such a stress saver for me.

I’m going to use RODI water. Now I’m just contemplating if I should use TTM. Will hypo work for velvet and other diseases?
 

bluprntguy

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1) Do I need to use a filter? I’m going to be doing 100% water change every 3 days, but the tank will be heavily stocked. I will be using prime for ammonia anyway.

I would use a filter. It helps aerate the water and remove some of the waste and food so that it doesn't pollute the tank. Some botteld bacteria would be helpful, especially given your proposed fish load. If you get an ammonia spike, you can just swap tanks early, but don't ever go longer than 3 days. An early transfer means you'll have one more transfer.

2) Can I use tap water? I have an RODI system, but if I’m changing water every 3 days for a fish only tank, I would want something fast and efficient, especially since I need to match salinity.

I use tap water for TTM. It's just way easier to mix new water already warmed up. I also have tap water with extremely low TDS. If you aren't sure about your local tap water, it's safer to use the RODI.

3) First time buying fish online. How do I acclimate them since they were probably in the bags with their waste for a few hours. I think I read that the ammonia will become very toxic as soon as I open the bag. Do I float and release in QT? Or drip acclimate?

Here's a whitepaper on why you shouldn't drip acclimate fish that have been shipped. You want to float them, open the bag, and get them directly into the new aquarium immediately (preferably with lower PH). Once you open the bag, the PH will rise and make the ammonia more toxic so it's imperative to get them out.
http://www.sustainableaquatics.com/docs/Acclimation-White-Paper.docx


4) I read that you need to disinfect the entire tank when it’s not in use. How do I fully disinfect the tank? Bleach? Vinegar? Won’t the ich die by itself if I just let the tank and equipment be fully dry outside for the 3 days of inactivity?

I use the hottest water from the tap. Fill up the aquarium with water and bleach. Throw EVERYTHING inside the tank (filter, heater, cords) and let it sit for 30 minutes. Rinse well. Fill up again with water and capful of prime to remove chlorine.
 

Mjrenz

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Do you think TTM is the best way to QT? I like this method because it’s fast (only 2 weeks) I don’t need a filter, and I can use prime.

I really don’t like copper. It’s too risky because of the ammonia. With the bio load I have, I’m for sure going to have ammonia.
What size tank are you planning on using? Tangs will yuck it up quick. Biospira will probably be a daily additive with them, you can also use prime to buy time if no copper is present.

If you're planning on using ttm for the sole purpose of being quick the best advice I can give is that quick is the quickest way to failure in this hobby. Read through all the methods and choose what you think will be the best for you without taking into consideration how long it takes.

Congratulations on your new additions!
 

Frtdrmrose7

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I am such a beginner in this field. How do I raise salinity in the tank while the fish are inside? I would much rather have a set salinity for both tanks and get the fish acclimated to my tanks and leave it like that. It would be such a stress saver for me.

I’m going to use RODI water. Now I’m just contemplating if I should use TTM. Will hypo work for velvet and other diseases?
I would personally use copper power (2.0 ppm)for 14 days then transfer to a sterile tank. If you use biospira and a filter sponge with an ammonia alert badge you shouldn’t have a problem. The copper will cover velvet and ich.
Don’t use prime with copper it will kill your fish. Biospira will setup a biofilter very quickly.
 

lvsuckerfish

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I believe they are talking about Drip acclimating to the salinity of your tank slowly.

My questions is why do you want to do 100% water changes every 3 days? Even in a QT Max Max I would do is 50% and that would depend on if I have to treat the fish and what I treated them with.

My next question is How big is the tank you are putting 5 tangs into?
 
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Mjrenz

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I am such a beginner in this field. How do I raise salinity in the tank while the fish are inside? I would much rather have a set salinity for both tanks and get the fish acclimated to my tanks and leave it like that. It would be such a stress saver for me.

I’m going to use RODI water. Now I’m just contemplating if I should use TTM. Will hypo work for velvet and other diseases?
I just scrolled back, hypo is only effective for some strains of ich (not all) and flukes. Raising salinity should be done very slowly but lowering salinity can be done quickly
 
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Miami Reef

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I’m now thinking of just doing copper. It sounds easier. Thanks guys!
 

MnFish1

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I am such a beginner in this field. How do I raise salinity in the tank while the fish are inside? I would much rather have a set salinity for both tanks and get the fish acclimated to my tanks and leave it like that. It would be such a stress saver for me.

I’m going to use RODI water. Now I’m just contemplating if I should use TTM. Will hypo work for velvet and other diseases?
Im surprised that 'as a beginner' no one has asked you what kind of tangs. Not sure what you mean by raising salinity when the fish are inside? TTM can work for velvet - you just need to do it more often. Hypo will not work for velvet or many other 'diseases'.
 
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I’m a beginner in salinity and adjusting salinity. I have a NSW company do my water changes for me once a month.
 

MnFish1

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I would personally use copper power (2.0 ppm)for 14 days then transfer to a sterile tank. If you use biospira and a filter sponge with an ammonia alert badge you shouldn’t have a problem. The copper will cover velvet and ich.
Don’t use prime with copper it will kill your fish. Biospira will setup a biofilter very quickly.
I dont think this method is all that safe. But - it is probably 90 percent of the time (give or take). Definitely dont use prime. Frankly - the OP no offense - sounds like a poster child for a disaster waiting to happen (sorry - seriously). Please make sure you ask questions if you have problems. Tangs are always hard - and beginning is also hard - I'm not saying this to criticise you - but if you do have trouble - dont give up:). it will all probably be fine.
 

Frtdrmrose7

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I dont think this method is all that safe. But - it is probably 90 percent of the time (give or take). Definitely dont use prime. Frankly - the OP no offense - sounds like a poster child for a disaster waiting to happen (sorry - seriously). Please make sure you ask questions if you have problems. Tangs are always hard - and beginning is also hard - I'm not saying this to criticise you - but if you do have trouble - dont give up:). it will all probably be fine.
I’ve never had an issue with Tangs in copper power. I use the Hanna so I keep my levels stable and I also focus on the ramp up to therapeutic levels, that is the key to copper. A lot of people who lose fish in copper seem to have other issues that go unidentified and that copper wouldn’t treat anyways (brook,flukes).
 
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Do you think TTM is the best way to QT? I like this method because it’s fast (only 2 weeks) I don’t need a filter, and I can use prime.

I really don’t like copper. It’s too risky because of the ammonia. With the bio load I have, I’m for sure going to have ammonia.
I dont think this method is all that safe. But - it is probably 90 percent of the time (give or take). Definitely dont use prime. Frankly - the OP no offense - sounds like a poster child for a disaster waiting to happen (sorry - seriously). Please make sure you ask questions if you have problems. Tangs are always hard - and beginning is also hard - I'm not saying this to criticise you - but if you do have trouble - dont give up:). it will all probably be fine.
What do you recommend I do? I don’t mind doing TTM or copper. I can do either, I just want to know the best course of action.

I’m not afraid to say I don’t know something. That’s why I’m here. I may be new to the hobby, but I’m persistent and willing to learn whatever you throw at me. I took what you wrote to heart and nothing was taken as offense.
 

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He is asking how to raise the salinity after you have matched the arrival salinity.

Typically I would just add saltwater instead of fresh for evaporation compensation. This will slowly raise the salinity as water evaporates.

With TTM you don't really have to top off the tanks since it's only a few days before transferring to the next tank. So you could just increase the salinity by one point each time you make a transfer until you reach the desired level. For instance if your fish arrive at 1.018 then you can set up transfer tank 2 at 1.019 and keep doing so until you reach your DT specific gravity.

I would recommend copper or CP as they are effective at erradicating ich/velvet.

What kind of tangs did you get and how large? 5 in a 10gal may be an issue behaviorally and for controlling ammonia. Tangs are very dirty fish.
 

Mjrenz

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He is asking how to raise the salinity after you have matched the arrival salinity.

Typically I would just add saltwater instead of fresh for evaporation compensation. This will slowly raise the salinity as water evaporates.

With TTM you don't really have to top off the tanks since it's only a few days before transferring to the next tank. So you could just increase the salinity by one point each time you make a transfer until you reach the desired level. For instance if your fish arrive at 1.018 then you can set up transfer tank 2 at 1.019 and keep doing so until you reach your DT specific gravity.

I would recommend copper or CP as they are effective at erradicating ich/velvet.

What kind of tangs did you get and how large? 5 in a 10gal may be an issue behaviorally and for controlling ammonia. Tangs are very dirty fish.
Just a quick question for you, I remember reading that cp is dangerous to use with blue tangs, is that correct?
 
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I am not putting 5 tangs in a 10 gallon tank. I’m putting them in a 30 gallon.

I got a kole, orange shoulder, mimic, naso, and lavendar. I got them as small as possible. About 1.5 inches.

So, I’m probably going to do copper because it’s the velvet that kills and I don’t want any velvet nor ich.

I’m sorry if I repeated my questions @HotRocks

I understand getting the salinity to the DT over time, but what do I do regarding salinity when the fish get delivered? I won’t know their salinity until I open their bags, and I’d want the tank to have the correct salinity before the fish come in.
 
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