Turf Algae - Should I just use fluconazole?

Karliefish

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So I have been battling green turf algae for a few months in my Waterbox 220.6. I neglected maintenance for awhile last year and ended up with nutrient spikes. That has been more controlled lately, but I obviously know that my nitrate and phosphate levels aren't true numbers due to the turf algae up taking the nutrients. I have since increased my CUC including adding two tuxedo urchins. Manuel removal is difficult for me to do efficiently, I cannot take the rocks out of my tank and it is hard to get most patches in the tank.

I feel like it has gotten too far out of control for my CUC to really get a grasp on this. Do you guys think I am at the point to where I should use fluconazole? I have heard of great success on these forums and other Facebook groups like BRS.


Don’t despair - you will get through this. We have a 365 gallon tank that we setup with 285 pounds of live rock and went through a really bad ugly phase - turf algae everywhere. Both the sandbed and rocks were covered in it. We ordered ten tuxedo urchins from Algae barn and picked-up a couple of Diamond gobies. Our ten small tuxedo urchins almost doubled in size as they mowed down the turf algae and our two gobies literally started two rip large chucks of the stuff off the sandbed. It was the craziest sight to watch and I would have never believed it, if I hadn’t seen it for myself. Fast forward two months and our rock is completely void of any algae and zero growth on our sand. These creatures are rock stars in our tank! Turning down your lights some might help somewhat.
 

StewL6

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Worked for me two times once in my 22 Nano green turf algae. Completely gone in 14 days. Algae free for over a year. Once in my 110 gallon more like green/brown hair algae completely gone in 21 days hasn’t returned in over 6 months. Definitely keeping in in my tanks tool box. Also both times didn’t even get a nutrients spike just slowly wasted away over time
 

gbroadbridge

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So I have been battling green turf algae for a few months in my Waterbox 220.6. I neglected maintenance for awhile last year and ended up with nutrient spikes. That has been more controlled lately, but I obviously know that my nitrate and phosphate levels aren't true numbers due to the turf algae up taking the nutrients. I have since increased my CUC including adding two tuxedo urchins. Manuel removal is difficult for me to do efficiently, I cannot take the rocks out of my tank and it is hard to get most patches in the tank.

I feel like it has gotten too far out of control for my CUC to really get a grasp on this. Do you guys think I am at the point to where I should use fluconazole? I have heard of great success on these forums and other Facebook groups like BRS.


Algae is in the ocean everywhere.

like others have said just go with the flow.

I would not introduce chemicals unless your tank is absolutely covered with algae.

Add more algae eaters.
 

CoralB

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We are Reef Chasers and we operate a 10,000 gallon+ aquaculture farm and have a following of over 6000+ on our socials. My livelihood depends on this every single day. I am sorry that this turned so confrontational. I am only here to offer help / advice as an active part of the community that we service and not to argue with folks so I do apologize for any offense that I may have caused.

We can agree to disagree about the peroxide and the OP can review the info and decide what is best for their tank~
Glad this time it’s you !!! :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:
 

CoralB

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Don’t despair - you will get through this. We have a 365 gallon tank that we setup with 285 pounds of live rock and went through a really bad ugly phase - turf algae everywhere. Both the sandbed and rocks were covered in it. We ordered ten tuxedo urchins from Algae barn and picked-up a couple of Diamond gobies. Our ten small tuxedo urchins almost doubled in size as they mowed down the turf algae and our two gobies literally started two rip large chucks of the stuff off the sandbed. It was the craziest sight to watch and I would have never believed it, if I hadn’t seen it for myself. Fast forward two months and our rock is completely void of any algae and zero growth on our sand. These creatures are rock stars in our tank! Turning down your lights some might help somewhat.
I also agree with this !!!
 

CoralB

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First of all, I suggested spot treatment with the pumps off, meaning the H2O2 would be localized to the algae. H2O2 rapidly breaks down so 5-10 mls of it would not affect anything in the tank once pumps are turned back on and it dissipates into the tank.

Second, true experts (who make their living/have large followings for their expertise in this area) go as far as to promote DOSING H2O2 to treat both fish and coral problems.

Your experience aside, the facts are that H2O2 is not "lethal to everything else in your tank".
I have to ask ! , your saying that “ true experts “ are those who make their living and have large followings . :thinking-face:.... reefchasers make a living at this but because they don’t have a large following on this site and don’t agree with you then you don’t consider them “ true experts “ ??? Insulting really ??? Maybe the first lemming over the cliff is a “true expert” to you as they have a large following .
We are Reef Chasers and we operate a 10,000 gallon+ aquaculture farm and have a following of over 6000+ on our socials. My livelihood depends on this every single day. I am sorry that this turned so confrontational. I am only here to offer help / advice as an active part of the community that we service and not to argue with folks so I do apologize for any offense that I may have caused.

We can agree to disagree about the peroxide and the OP can review the info and decide what is best for their tank~
I think they are qualified!!!
 

tnw50cal

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Hydrogen Peroxide is H2O2, water is H2O, Oxygen that we breath(as well as our fish and coral, etc.) is O2. When put into our tanks peroxide breaks down into H2O and O (O is a single atom of oxygen also known as a free radical). After injecting peroxide into a clump of algae in your tank the bubbles you see raising to the surface are 2 Os that have combined to become O2(safe for our fish,coral etc. ). What your not seeing are the Os (free radical) that have not combined yet. Those can and will hurt and or kill living tissue. Turning your pumps back on gives them a better chance at doing so. But hay what do I know.
You can google this info- you should see what those free radical do to bacteria which is why it is sold as a antiseptic. The bubbles are a added benefit that helps raise/lift(so wiping can remove) dirt and dead tissue.
 

davidwillis

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Its a hitchhiker/invader and despite most of the recommendations here it is very unlikely to resolve at all on its own via biological management (tangs hermits etc) or "time". You will not be able to starve it by controlling nutrients. Its basically impossible to starve out algae without starving everything, and actually elevated nutrients does not equal algae problem, typically the opposite is true (very counter intuitive!)

IMO flucanazole will wipe it out. Dont overdose it and most things should be just fine. Ive dosed flucanazole in huge systems full of corals and as long as to follow instructions and not get gung-ho with it than you shouldnt have many problems with your corals.

You would be surprised what a flucanazole dose will do in a few weeks time to that stuff.

So I have a similar looking algae, that has been around for about 6 months, and getting worse.

I tried flux rx. I used the full 7000 mg, since I have a 300 gallon tank, with a 40 gallon sump (close to 350g). I followed the instructions (removed carbon, turned off skimmer for 72 hours, etc). Some of it turned white (not all), but it all came back within a few weeks, and it is as healthy as ever now. I did however put the carbon back in and did some water changes at 72 hours. I am thinking this may be why it didn't die.... Should I try it again? And if so, if it doesn't die after one dose (10-14 days), should I do it again?

I have been spot treating with h202, and it seems to be working, but is very time consuming. I have not seen any adverse effects with the corals, but it may have killed my shrimp. I think it will take me years to get it under control with h202.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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There is a sticky thread that details several people's experience with flucanozole and bryopsis... might not translate exactly for treatment of other algaes but linking it here for reference. I believe it was found that turf and hair algaes required longer treatment.
 

gbroadbridge

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So I have a similar looking algae, that has been around for about 6 months, and getting worse.

I tried flux rx. I used the full 7000 mg, since I have a 300 gallon tank, with a 40 gallon sump (close to 350g). I followed the instructions (removed carbon, turned off skimmer for 72 hours, etc). Some of it turned white (not all), but it all came back within a few weeks, and it is as healthy as ever now. I did however put the carbon back in and did some water changes at 72 hours. I am thinking this may be why it didn't die.... Should I try it again? And if so, if it doesn't die after one dose (10-14 days), should I do it again?

I have been spot treating with h202, and it seems to be working, but is very time consuming. I have not seen any adverse effects with the corals, but it may have killed my shrimp. I think it will take me years to get it under control with h202.
You need to stop water changes until the algae has all died, and no carbon either.

When I used flux Rx on a nano tank, it had no water changes or carbon for over 6 weeks.
 

davidwillis

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You need to stop water changes until the algae has all died, and no carbon either.

When I used flux Rx on a nano tank, it had no water changes or carbon for over 6 weeks.

So just to make sure i am clear. One dose, but no water changes or carbon until it has all died, even if it is over 6 weeks... That is probably my problem. I put carbon back in and started water changes at less than a week.
 

gbroadbridge

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So just to make sure i am clear. One dose, but no water changes or carbon until it has all died, even if it is over 6 weeks... That is probably my problem. I put carbon back in and started water changes at less than a week.
Thats what worked for me :)
 

GarrettT

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I went a full 1.5 months without a skimmer or water changes. Even overdose the product. Still didn’t have any effect on my turf. I did the above twice!

It did remove my bryopsis though.
 

gbroadbridge

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I went a full 1.5 months without a skimmer or water changes. Even overdose the product. Still didn’t have any effect on my turf. I did the above twice!

It did remove my bryopsis though.
I think it depends a lot on the type of algae.

It worked on bryopsis and gha for me, but that could be a completely different algae to that in your tank.

Algaefix works quite well if you're really desperate And prepared to gamble.

So does vibrant. Lol.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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So just to make sure i am clear. One dose, but no water changes or carbon until it has all died, even if it is over 6 weeks... That is probably my problem. I put carbon back in and started water changes at less than a week.
From what I recall, no water changes for 6 weeks unless the health of the livestock is at risk, and then replace the percentage of flucanozole you removed. In other words, test to make sure parameters aren't approaching toxic levels; if they are, and you do, for example, a 25% water change, add 1/4 of the original flucanozole dose back to the tank.
 

Gatorpa

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Hydrogen Peroxide is H2O2, water is H2O, Oxygen that we breath(as well as our fish and coral, etc.) is O2. When put into our tanks peroxide breaks down into H2O and O (O is a single atom of oxygen also known as a free radical). After injecting peroxide into a clump of algae in your tank the bubbles you see raising to the surface are 2 Os that have combined to become O2(safe for our fish,coral etc. ). What your not seeing are the Os (free radical) that have not combined yet. Those can and will hurt and or kill living tissue. Turning your pumps back on gives them a better chance at doing so. But hay what do I know.
You can google this info- you should see what those free radical do to bacteria which is why it is sold as a antiseptic. The bubbles are a added benefit that helps raise/lift(so wiping can remove) dirt and dead tissue.
What do you think happens when we run ozone through a skimmer?
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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What do you think happens when we run ozone through a skimmer?
I believe it's recommended to run the water and air coming out of the skimmer through activated carbon to reduce any negative effect from the ozone
 

Gatorpa

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I believe it's recommended to run the water and air coming out of the skimmer through activated carbon to reduce any negative effect from the ozone
I’ve never heard that and been using it off and on for decades.

Obviously you don’t run it at a maxed level and some will monitor the level as well.

But it is rather unstable and quickly breaks down to O2 and O-. Similar to the dreaded H2O2.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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I’ve never heard that and been using it off and on for decades.

Obviously you don’t run it at a maxed level and some will monitor the level as well.

But it is rather unstable and quickly breaks down to O2 and O-. Similar to the dreaded H2O2.
I have never run ozone and only recall the recommendation to use carbon, not the source. I'll defer to your ozone experience, sir. ;)
 

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