Understanding 1st ICP Test

Kika

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Hi,

I just received my first ICP results from FM (please see attached). However, I would like your input on what to prioritize/ do next?

For context, I am currently on a 2-part dosing system, Reef Pro AB.

Thank you kindly.


20260601_115024_405956D4-030D-41EF-8723-F5C2B8B33AF1.png


20260601_115024_2E2E967D-6ACF-4B12-920D-294290208B92.png


20260601_115024_90F46460-583B-481F-B5C9-8063E5C878A6.png
 

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Nothing really looks out of whack except your salt level is a little low. Alk, mag, and calcium are decent but on the higher side. Do a water change to get the salinity up some and maybe reduce the 2-part just a little. If it were me, I'd drop the 2-Part dosing slightly today and test again in 3 or 4 days to see if it's holding or still going up. Adjust down a little more if it's still going up and test again in 2-3 days until it's holding steady. If it starts dropping, add half of whatever you reduced back in and that's where is stick for a week or two and see how it's looking afterwards.
 
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Kika

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Nothing really looks out of whack except your salt level is a little low. Alk, mag, and calcium are decent but on the higher side. Do a water change to get the salinity up some and maybe reduce the 2-part just a little. If it were me, I'd drop the 2-Part dosing slightly today and test again in 3 or 4 days to see if it's holding or still going up. Adjust down a little more if it's still going up and test again in 2-3 days until it's holding steady. If it starts dropping, add half of whatever you reduced back in and that's where is stick for a week or two and see how it's looking afterwards.
Much appreciated. I have corrected the salinity level by using the TM hydrometer . I was using a refractometer and was not very accurate.

I will also reduce the 2 parts, my Alk is now holding steady at 8.3 but cal keeps at ~460. The problem is that mag is already in part A and its most of the time very high. This is why I am thinking on moving to a balling method so I can control everything separately…
 

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Much appreciated. I have corrected the salinity level by using the TM hydrometer . I was using a refractometer and was not very accurate.

I will also reduce the 2 parts, my Alk is now holding steady at 8.3 but cal keeps at ~460. The problem is that mag is already in part A and its most of the time very high. This is why I am thinking on moving to a balling method so I can control everything separately…
Most hobby grade magnesium tests are inaccurate according to Randy so I wouldn't put too much worry into the magnesium levels if your calcium and alkalinity levels are in line.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Sorry, I thought I posted this earlier.

Magnesium is high, and will go higher if you boost salinity (I would).

What two part are you using?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Something is wrong for it to get this high (and now higher), unless the icp is wrong. But I don’t know what is wrong. I do not know they they devised that product.

What salt mix are you using?
 
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Kika

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Something is wrong for it to get this high (and now higher), unless the icp is wrong. But I don’t know what is wrong. I do not know they they devised that product.

What salt mix are you using?
I’m on Red Sea blue bucket. A little bit of additional context. I was struggling on getting mag at ~1400 which is where I wanted it with my 2 parts., so I raised it using the seachem mag. I stopped it when I got to ~1500 (it went out of my desired range). Since then, I have been unable to take it down, I can’t even measure it with the salitfier test because it never change colors hence >1500 for sure., except for around 3 weeks ago I did a water change of 20% and it was measured again at ~1500., but of course it went up again after few days.

The above is likely happening because I never nor is my intention to stop dosing part A which contains Mag, which is why it’s a little bit hard to take it down u less I stop dosing part A. Essentially I don’t have separate control over Mag alone.

This is why I am looking into a balling method fauna, tropic M, or BRS hybrid. Can you also advise in this ?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Do you do regular water changes?

I advise folks to not dose magnesium based on home testing because it is not accurate enough. It has put you in a bind now because raising salinity must raise mag even more.

There are many fine diy and commercial systems, but it may be hard to lower magnesium with any of them without risking lowering other things such as potassium.

Switching to kalkwasser would do the trick very slowly. Water changes would be faster. AFR would likely work, but much slower than kalkwasser.
 
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Kika

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Do you do regular water changes?

I advise folks to not dose magnesium based on home testing because it is not accurate enough. It has put you in a bind now because raising salinity must raise mag even more.

There are many fine diy and commercial systems, but it may be hard to lower magnesium with any of them without risking lowering other things such as potassium.

Switching to kalkwasser would do the trick very slowly. Water changes would be faster. AFR would likely work, but much slower than kalkwasser.
Yeah, lesson learned!!

For now I’ll do water changes. What would you recommend, weekly 20% until I got mag to desired range ?
 

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I’m on Red Sea blue bucket. A little bit of additional context. I was struggling on getting mag at ~1400 which is where I wanted it with my 2 parts., so I raised it using the seachem mag. I stopped it when I got to ~1500 (it went out of my desired range). Since then, I have been unable to take it down, I can’t even measure it with the salitfier test because it never change colors hence >1500 for sure., except for around 3 weeks ago I did a water change of 20% and it was measured again at ~1500., but of course it went up again after few days.

The above is likely happening because I never nor is my intention to stop dosing part A which contains Mag, which is why it’s a little bit hard to take it down u less I stop dosing part A. Essentially I don’t have separate control over Mag alone.

This is why I am looking into a balling method fauna, tropic M, or BRS hybrid. Can you also advise in this ?

There is a great thread here on DIY Balling

 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Yeah, lesson learned!!

For now I’ll do water changes. What would you recommend, weekly 20% until I got mag to desired range ?

I don’t think it’s a rush (unless snails seem lethargic, which seems to happen at high magnesium) if you get it going in the right direction. I change 1% daily by AWC, 20% twice a month seems enough to me.
 
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Kika

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I’m on Red Sea blue bucket. A little bit of additional context. I was struggling on getting mag at ~1400 which is where I wanted it with my 2 parts., so I raised it using the seachem mag. I stopped it when I got to ~1500 (it went out of my desired range). Since then, I have been unable to take it down, I can’t even measure it with the salitfier test because it never change colors hence >1500 for sure., except for around 3 weeks ago I did a water change of 20% and it was measured again at ~1500., but of course it went up again after few days.

The above is likely happening because I never nor is my intention to stop dosing part A which contains Mag, which is why it’s a little bit hard to take it down u less I stop dosing part A. Essentially I don’t have separate control over Mag alone.

This is why I am looking into a balling method fauna, tropic M, or BRS hybrid. Can you also advise in this ?

There is a great thread here on DIY Balling

Thank you, sounds like the BRS hybrid balling
 

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