Using Bleach (NaClO) in a reef tank
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domination2580
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Bleach only stays in the water column for about 12 hours. I have successfully done this veggie and even dipped coral in a bleach solution with no fatalities
Paul B
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I didn't read 95% this thread but I have a lot of experience using Clorox in tanks. The only thing I want to say is to make sure you use Clorox marked "Regular" Clorox. No "New Fresh Scent", "Easy Pour" or anything like that. If you do, you will kill everything in your tank in seconds.
Don't ask.
Don't ask.
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edosan
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Hi Paul! thanks for stoping by and sharing, 100% agree! must be tradicional clorox ONLY. (Basically NaClO + Water). Can you post the links or share your experience with clorox, in my case so far so good.I didn't read 95% this thread but I have a lot of experience using Clorox in tanks. The only thing I want to say is to make sure you use Clorox marked "Regular" Clorox. No "New Fresh Scent", "Easy Pour" or anything like that. If you do, you will kill everything in your tank in seconds.
Don't ask.
Last week I one of my test tanks with dinno, I made a quick test, I alway keep in my test tanks, at least 1 shrimp, couple of fishes, few sps frags (No delicate acros, but I have a few acros and montis), lps and soft corals, in order to check reactions. Was full of dinno, so what I did:
Day 1 one: Siphon and remove as much as dinno as aI can, dose 1ml x 100 (400 lt tank) so 4ml bleach in the morning and same in the evenning.
Day 2: Same as day 1
Day 3: Oxigen Peroxide 30% vol. 50ml
Day 4: Oxigen Peroxide 30% vol. 50ml
Day 5: visible dinno was 100% OUT, livestock perfect
Did not change anything else. I was quite impress.
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edosan
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Forgot to mention, my DT looks like is velvet free now..donno if fishes have a better inmunity now, or was the clorox, or is just a parasite wave, but fishes are much better now, including tangs, and others, no visible signs. After fighting for almost 2 months, I did lost 4 fishes (2 year old Leuco, 1 year old Mandarin, 8 month old Copper & 1 year old Angel Flame) due 100% for velvet.
I do follow your suggestions PaulB and feed with live worms and clams and guts.
I do follow your suggestions PaulB and feed with live worms and clams and guts.
Paul B
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Edosan. I have not used Clorox in decades but at the beginning, when I was a Noob there was no information. I started my tank with water from the East River next to Manhattan and after a few months or a year the tank was full of parasites, algae, flatworms, bristleworms and the nitrate was probably 600. I didn't test but there were no corals then so it didn't matter. Parasites were so bad that my fish would look at my tank from their plastic bag and get parasites. Even the plastic bag developed parasites, I had them on my TV. I ran copper continuously but there were just too many problems. My Bible, "The Salt Water Aquarium in the Home" by Robert Straughn advised to add bleach. One cup of bleach to fifty gallons of water. Of course remove everything that you didn't want to have a nice fresh scent. I added the bleach and almost immediately I had hundreds of floating bristle worms. I netted out all the dead stuff and ran my diatom filter but kept in the bleach. After 3 days I added carbon to the filter and in a day the water had no more bleach smell.
I put back the fish and in a few months the blue devils spawned.
I think I did that bleach thing two or three times to my tank and that water is still in there as I never emptied the tank. Bleach will kill everything including of course any bacteria so you are basically starting from scratch.
Kind of over kill but in those days I had no choice. I sometimes add bleach to NSW if it looks like it is full of red tide or other parasites and it makes it 100% pure of "life".
I once added "New Fresh Scent" bleach by accident and in less than one minute killed almost all my fish. My 26 year old fireclown is the only one I have that I was able to rescue but I lost a 10 year old mandarin and a 18 year old brutlyd or cusk eel along with many other old fish.
This was that mandarin
I put back the fish and in a few months the blue devils spawned.
I think I did that bleach thing two or three times to my tank and that water is still in there as I never emptied the tank. Bleach will kill everything including of course any bacteria so you are basically starting from scratch.
Kind of over kill but in those days I had no choice. I sometimes add bleach to NSW if it looks like it is full of red tide or other parasites and it makes it 100% pure of "life".
I once added "New Fresh Scent" bleach by accident and in less than one minute killed almost all my fish. My 26 year old fireclown is the only one I have that I was able to rescue but I lost a 10 year old mandarin and a 18 year old brutlyd or cusk eel along with many other old fish.
This was that mandarin
Bleach is among the 30% ers which is equal to about all dino treatment options imo. it elbowed itself in among the standards of the day, nice going oxidizer bleach Im in support and awe still.
3/10 dino challenge tanks are beaten by direct action against the cells including bleach, peroxide, ATS starvation systems (they have documented dino cures, 30%, although they claim total ability to beat in sales ads) or any other doser like dinoxal
3/10
in fact, all methods claimed to battle dinos are about 3/10 so I say there's lots of ground to make up. This is no slight to bleach either, its valid totally and about as good as any other method of the day.
When the 30% ability to cure margin has been consistently bested, we'll know. I get this percentage estimate from thread scanning and the mix of "it worked" "it didn't work" + collateral losses per treatment for dinos threads. Bleach was given practically a zero chance of becoming an in-tank doser (claimed to be fully dangerous and wipe tank bacteria/not at known dosages) and you've done good work here and so did Twilliard an oxidation revolution has gone on for a few years now in reefing against the grain its fun to observe.
3/10 dino challenge tanks are beaten by direct action against the cells including bleach, peroxide, ATS starvation systems (they have documented dino cures, 30%, although they claim total ability to beat in sales ads) or any other doser like dinoxal
3/10
in fact, all methods claimed to battle dinos are about 3/10 so I say there's lots of ground to make up. This is no slight to bleach either, its valid totally and about as good as any other method of the day.
When the 30% ability to cure margin has been consistently bested, we'll know. I get this percentage estimate from thread scanning and the mix of "it worked" "it didn't work" + collateral losses per treatment for dinos threads. Bleach was given practically a zero chance of becoming an in-tank doser (claimed to be fully dangerous and wipe tank bacteria/not at known dosages) and you've done good work here and so did Twilliard an oxidation revolution has gone on for a few years now in reefing against the grain its fun to observe.
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domination2580
Reef-a-nator
Most disasters from bleach happen because they don't do it correctly or they don't take caution seriously when they do. For the ones that had dinos come back, they didn't sterilize everything. They reintroduced it into the system wether it be from turning off the skimmer while dosing and not emptying and cleaning and turning it back on after.
domination2580
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Exactly what you are supposed to do. But also best to replace all gfo and such
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edosan
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I have try with and without and there is not difference that I can see ... bleach act fast.
Observing corals, is like 5 to 10 minutes (polyp contraction), after that, polyp extention start again.
Observing corals, is like 5 to 10 minutes (polyp contraction), after that, polyp extention start again.
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