UV Sterilizer on Large Reef Tanks

KingJason

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What is everyone using here? I'm looking for something in the range of 600 total volume.

Any recommendations?
 

stunreefer

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What return pump are/will you be running?

Are you going to feed all return water from the sump into the U/V (definitely recommended)?

Are you trying to eradicate parasites, or looking for clarity?

U/V is all based on flow rate and what you're trying to accomplish. The emp 80w could work great, but can only handle 600 GPH for 180,000 µWs/cm², and 1,200 GPH for 90,000 µWs/cm². I suspect your return would be moving more than that.
 
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KingJason

KingJason

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It's an new setup so it will be a preventative measure and clarity would be a plus.

Return is an Abyzz A200 so t
What return pump are/will you be running?

Are you going to feed all return water from the sump into the U/V (definitely recommended)?

Are you trying to eradicate parasites, or looking for clarity?

U/V is all based on flow rate and what you're trying to accomplish. The emp 80w could work great, but can only handle 600 GPH for 180,000 µWs/cm², and 1,200 GPH for 90,000 µWs/cm². I suspect your return would be moving more than that.

It will be on a new setup so it goes in as a precautionary measure. Increased clarity would just be an added bonus.

The return is an Abyzz A200 so putting all the flow through the UV is probably not going to work. I'll most likely have to dial this down a little, but I'm still hoping to push around 2500-3000GPH through it. I could T off a part of the return and just dial this back to go through the UV.

The other option is to run this off my manifold which is easy.

Question is, will an 80w unit be sufficient? From what I've read, the emp units are quality and their ratings are legit so it seems it would be a good choice, but right on the top of the recommended tank size.
 

stunreefer

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As you know U/V will only sterilize organisms that pass through the quartz sleeve. So if you use a manifold/tee and short-circuit the unit (by bypassing), some organisms will sneak around it, potentially never going through the unit. However, this would certainly still aid in clarifying the water and can sterilize anything else that passes through it.

If parasite control is your goal, then you'll want 100% of the water going through the unit prior to entering the display (this is the only way we install them). If this is the case then you'll need a much larger unit to handle your system.

The max size listed is kind of useless when it comes to U/V, as it's all based on contact time and max flow of the unit.

The A-200 moves 3,750 gph in normal mode, then figure in your head pressure due to plumbing. If moving 100% of return water through U/V you'll want a unit that can handle over 3,000 gph. I would look at the Aqua Logic Corona Series, ALSV-4 will handle 3,180 gph @ 120K intensity, ALSV-5 will handle 4,200 gph at 120K intensity.
Anyone have experience with them?
I install a fair amount of Aqua Ultraviolet units, they're pretty darn good!

FWIW, there are two types of bulbs used in quality U/V units, low-pressure and high-pressure bulbs. Low-pressure bulbs are more efficient, meaning they reach the desired intensity with less wattage than high-pressure, and tend to have a more stable lifespan. Aqua Ultraviolet uses high-pressure bulbs. Emperor, MRC, and Aqua Logic use low-pressure bulbs (in fact they all use Emperor bulbs in different housings).
 

Osteoclast

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I have an Emperor aquatics unit on my tank over 650 gallons with circuits and sump. Use a sicce 3.0 pump to the unit (sump to unit). 80 watt model. Have been pleased with it.
 

clekchau

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I have an aqua uv 55 for my koi pond that clears a 5000 g pond 24/7, it flows over 4500 gph thru it. It's saltwater safe , about to try one in my 1200 reef
 

stunreefer

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I have an aqua uv 55 for my koi pond that clears a 5000 g pond 24/7, it flows over 4500 gph thru it. It's saltwater safe , about to try one in my 1200 reef
That will not affect parasites but could help clarify water.
 

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