Very elevated Tin levels

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I have tin levels around 7ppm and all the acros in my tank seem colorful still but with little polyp extension. The tank is 4 month running so I assume it is from the glass and pvc. I am hoping that water changes bring it down to 0 over the next 6 weeks.

7 ppb, right?

 

[Trevor40]

Yes, 7ppb, sorry.

 

[Cnidoblast]

Should not be of concern as I suspect that any organotin compounds will not last very long in a reef ecosystem (bacteria will start chopping them up)

 

[rpeters]

My first test was 49 last month and ran some seachem cuprisorb and was down to 22 on last test got back last week. Threw 2 more bags of cuprisorb in my sump today. Did not do any of the recommended 6x15% water changes.

First test: https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-b/icp-oes/49914/
Second test: https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-b/icp-oes/50107/

 

[Cnidoblast]

Just let the cuprisorb run for two weeks than take it out and ICP again

 

[Trevor40]

I had high tin a few months ago on my 240 gallons. I did a few 10-15% water changes, added Cuprisorb and now they are near undetectable. I assume the Cuprisorb did most of the work.

 

[ReefTeacher]

I had an unusual experience recently. One Triton test came back with high Tin (3.3 ppb) My corals looked fine so I did nothing different, but wanted to see if it continued to rise. The next test came back 0 ppb, as it had been before. I could have had elevated Tin for a couple of months, but I suspect testing error this time.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I had an unusual experience recently. One Triton test came back with high Tin (3.3 ppb) My corals looked fine so I did nothing different, but wanted to see if it continued to rise. The next test came back 0 ppb, as it had been before. I could have had elevated Tin for a couple of months, but I suspect testing error this time.

FWIW, triton’s limit of detection for tin is about 1 ppb, so it wouldn’t need to move down all that much to become undetectable. [emoji3]

 

[tastyfish]

I had an unusual experience recently. One Triton test came back with high Tin (3.3 ppb) My corals looked fine so I did nothing different, but wanted to see if it continued to rise. The next test came back 0 ppb, as it had been before. I could have had elevated Tin for a couple of months, but I suspect testing error this time.

FWIW, triton’s limit of detection for tin is about 1 ppb, so it wouldn’t need to move down all that much to become undetectable. [emoji3]

Or even uptake by algae. 3.3ppb is not high IME, but detectable.

 

[dodgerblew]

Would like to revive this. Received my ATI results and seems good other then Tin and Vanadium. Perhaps the folks here well read in Chemistry can take a look and offer recommendations. Thanks!

 

[tastyfish]

The levels aren't scary, but I would perform some water changes as I had SPS loss at 6.33ug/l. It depends on what compound the tin is contained in and a host of other variables in the tank which I don't think anyone can have a claim to know.

Since you have Cu, Zn, Sn and V, I would suspect you have some corrosion going on. The first 3 form plating layers on metal and vanadium is used to harden steel, commonly used in motor shafts, screws etc.

Have a check around and see what you find. Running a magnet through the sump and sand bed might yield something.

Have you added any equipment or pipework since your last test? When did you last service your RO DI?

 

[dodgerblew]

No new equipment or pipe work . System is a 60 cube, bare bottom. I water change 5 gallons every 5-7 days

When you say service RO DI I'm assuming you mean replacement filters and cartridges? If so, a month ago. I run 6 stage, 2 micron filters, 1 carbon, 1 carbon/chloromine, membrane and then double DI, all Spectrapure and all their top of the line. Test done on water from about a month ago so tank water wouldn't include all new additions other then maybe 5-10 gallon water change.

Upon inspection it looks like the mp10 wetside magnet or cover that adheres the wetside to glass is not seated perfectly, it's off a bit. Your recommendation I change out wetside?

 

[dodgerblew]

Upon further inspection it appears that the hose that attaches the hose to the tank return nipple has a metal hose clamp and it is rusted. Looks like the bulkhead must have a slow leak and there is a 1-1.5" salt stalactite which sits above the sump. I take it this can very well be the culprit I'm looking for? I'll be switching to a plastic hose clamp

 

[tastyfish]

Upon further inspection it appears that the hose that attaches the hose to the tank return nipple has a metal hose clamp and it is rusted. Looks like the bulkhead must have a slow leak and there is a 1-1.5" salt stalactite which sits above the sump. I take it this can very well be the culprit I'm looking for? I'll be switching to a plastic hose clamp

Yes, could be. As is always the case, it's often a case of finding a needle in a haystack, and then having to find the right needle!

Keep looking after you change this, I would perform some decent water changes and do another ICP, followed by one in 2-4 weeks which will tell you if you got it!

 

[dodgerblew]

ICP = ?

 

[DHill6]

ATI test

 

[tastyfish]

ICP = ?

ICP-OES: Inductively Coupled Plasma - Optical Emission Spectrometry....

In english, analysis of water samples using spectrometry to provide a breakdown by chemical isotopes

ie: Triton and now others.

 

[Want2BS8ed]

No new equipment or pipe work . System is a 60 cube, bare bottom. I water change 5 gallons every 5-7 days

When you say service RO DI I'm assuming you mean replacement filters and cartridges? If so, a month ago. I run 6 stage, 2 micron filters, 1 carbon, 1 carbon/chloromine, membrane and then double DI, all Spectrapure and all their top of the line. Test done on water from about a month ago so tank water wouldn't include all new additions other then maybe 5-10 gallon water change.

Upon inspection it looks like the mp10 wetside magnet or cover that adheres the wetside to glass is not seated perfectly, it's off a bit. Your recommendation I change out wetside?

FWIW, if it had been your RO/DI it would have been picked up by ATI when they tested your freshwater sample.

Sounds as if you are on the right path to finding the solution. Please update the thread after your next couple of water tests.

Good luck!

M

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I have tin levels around 7ppm and all the acros in my tank seem colorful still but with little polyp extension. The tank is 4 month running so I assume it is from the glass and pvc. I am hoping that water changes bring it down to 0 over the next 6 weeks.

I'm not sure where its from, but those may be correct. There may be other sources as well.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

ICP-OES: Inductively Coupled Plasma - Optical Emission Spectrometry....

In english, analysis of water samples using spectrometry to provide a breakdown by chemical isotopes

ie: Triton and now others.

Not isotopes (same chemical element but different molecular weights, like carbon-12 and carbon-14), but different chemical elements.