Wen’s 280 Build

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If you’re going for water clarification and algae, then 40 is fine. If you’re going for parasites than a 50 alone is not enough. I would add a 50 to the 40, or get an 80.

For anti-parasitic qualities, tank turnover should be at least 3x, preferably more. To achieve parasitic kill dosages you have to run water slowly through them (as you are currently with your 40W UV). So you won’t be able to achieve effective parasite control with a 50W.

It just depends on why you’re deciding to upgrade your UV.
Hmmm....thinking out loud here.

If I did a 2nd 40watt and ran it inline: I could keep same slow flow, have a matching 2nd uv, be out $400 and have a challenge mounting it in the closet.
If I did the 80watt: I would need a dedicated pump in sump to handle the high gph, sell the 40watt, buy the 80watt and be out around $475. Replacing the 40 with the 80 would be better use of fish closet space.

Seems like in the long run, the 80 is the way to go.
 

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The 80W is the way to go.
It’s like trying to cook steak in a 500f oven or 1000f on a grill. You need to get the inside meat to temperature otherwise you’ll be going to the bathroom after dinner.
 

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To add to that. I don’t see any negative in getting the highest watts(larger size) if space is available. You need to be able to push enough water into it and have enough power to kill the protozoans.
For example, a two 40 watts in-line is still 40w but maybe longer cooking duration. However, it may not be powerful enough to be effective. You can slow down the flow into it, but now you might not have enough turnover rate.
Figure out your total water volume, the turnover rate, and get the correct size UV. Multiple inline units doesn’t really do anything more than just complicate the plumbing.
 

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if it’s simpler in terms of fit and you have the room for it, I would definitely go for the 80.
 
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I took the emp out of copper power due to eye infection. He's eating and I am feeling good about treatment plan. Unfortunately, he will have to go through CPower again if I want to follow the rules.

Day 8 of copper for the rest, 1 loss, can't wait for it to be over.
So what's your current plan? You have everyone out of copper now. Are you going to re-treat?
 

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No, I’ll put some converted black mollies in with the fish to make sure they’re clean. If they are, wont treat again. If they get infected...then...I’ll decide later. Haha. I dunno.
 
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No, I’ll put some converted black mollies in with the fish to make sure they’re clean. If they are, wont treat again. If they get infected...then...I’ll decide later. Haha. I dunno.
I was looking for clean, large, black mollies yesterday to begin the slow conversion to salt. Hard to find!
 

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Really? I’ve always seen them in stock at my local pet smart. Petco has them too. Tip is to acclimate them slowly, over 12 hours or so is where I’ve had success.
 
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Last ones I had were nice and big from pet supermarket, acclimated very slow for 5 days, haha. When I adopted the hippo. Hippo is looking great in the copper.
 
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Thinking about the uv upgrade and plumbing options.

What about a cor20 (max2000gph) pushing water through an 80watt uv (min450gph/max2700) which flows through the chiller (min450gph/max1900) and into sump?
The minimum flow would cover parasites, but max can’t get to the suggested gph for algae..

I guess the priority reason For uv upgrade is decrease of parasites but with this immature tank struggling through diatoms, dinos, gha and cyano..the maximum gph would be a nice option.
 
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Copper treatment is complete, cleaned and reset the Rubbermaid, bathed all fish in Hydrogen peroxide before going into copper free observation.
1E700790-7293-4A86-B77D-4A6BBEDD9AB3.jpeg

General Tso’s eyelid is much improved, so bath and into Rubbermaid for him. Woohoo!
FA81FD32-5922-4931-A02A-98DEC1932C59.jpeg
94360F20-7C77-4453-B7A0-9A4576BB8214.jpeg
 
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Gablami

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Read a great article regarding Dino’s from AlgaeBarn and I’m all in, signed up for auto shipments. https://www.algaebarn.com/blog/phyt...croalgae-to-control-nuisance-dinoflagellates/

This guy is doing his part cleaning up algae, but he’s gotten way too big. Haha, the alpha male of at least 6 of these rubies in the DT.
B6A23F20-FE1A-4EF4-A789-F0F3118F4071.jpeg
If I were going to dose phyto regularly I would probably setup my own culture. Seems like a fun project. Maybe if you see results you can give it a shot.
 

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Copper treatment is complete, cleaned and reset the Rubbermaid, bathed all fish in Hydrogen peroxide before going into copper free observation.
1E700790-7293-4A86-B77D-4A6BBEDD9AB3.jpeg

General Tso’s eyelid is much improved, so bath and into Rubbermaid for him. Woohoo!
FA81FD32-5922-4931-A02A-98DEC1932C59.jpeg
94360F20-7C77-4453-B7A0-9A4576BB8214.jpeg

WAHOOO! Finally! Looking good. I am glad you and @Gablami decided to medicate.
 
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WAHOOO! Finally! Looking good. I am glad you and @Gablami decided to medicate.
Thanks, it was the right thing to do. Now just waiting out the fallow and observation.

What have you been working on? Are you happy with the Orphek strips? Do you have a uv on your system, don’t remember seeing one in your build thread.?
 

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Thanks, it was the right thing to do. Now just waiting out the fallow and observation.

What have you been working on? Are you happy with the Orphek strips? Do you have a uv on your system, don’t remember seeing one in your build thread.?

I agree 100% it was the right thing to do.

I will post an update sometime this week. Added some fish : Regal Angel, Bimac Anthia, 9 Randell's anthia, a ton of SPS frags that I got in a trade.

I really like the orphex bars. I am debating adding a third one down the middle of might lighting arrangement.
I do not run UV on my system. I QT everything before going into the DT and feel UV that is adequate size is to expensive for just algae management, would rather use fish and other forms of filtration for that.
 

Mastering the art of locking and unlocking water pathways: What type of valves do you have on your aquarium plumbing?

  • Ball valves.

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  • None.

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