What Happens When API Ammonia Test Kit Goes Bad

[kboogie]

I think it is important I make it clear that I use Hanna Checkers for everything where I want to understand an accurate measure of a parameter such as Nitrates. I use API tests kits as a binary indicator to determine if a parameter is a value greater than zero. I don’t use an API kit to determine the specific level of a parameter which is the primary area where the accuracy of the kit is rightfully questioned.

With that said, I’m running a new QT setup that uses media that was placed in my DT sump for several weeks. I tested the QT ammonia today hoping for a zero reading but it was greater than zero. This had me wondering, if the reagents went bad because it is an older less used kit, would the kit produce a false positive or would it produce a false negative?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I do not know, and have not heard many folks suggest there’s has gone bad as opposed to just is not super accurate at the low end. I use the Seachem alert when I want to monitor ammonia, much as it annoys me to have to support them.

 

[Dan_P]

I think it is important I make it clear that I use Hanna Checkers for everything where I want to understand an accurate measure of a parameter such as Nitrates. I use API tests kits as a binary indicator to determine if a parameter is a value greater than zero. I don’t use an API kit to determine the specific level of a parameter which is the primary area where the accuracy of the kit is rightfully questioned.

With that said, I’m running a new QT setup that uses media that was placed in my DT sump for several weeks. I tested the QT ammonia today hoping for a zero reading but it was greater than zero. This had me wondering, if the reagents went bad because it is an older less used kit, would the kit produce a false positive or would it produce a false negative?

How high is the total ammonia reading?

One of thr reagents is bleach and it would go bad by becoming weaker, which would give a lower than true value. The ferricyanide catalyst used in the test is what gives the zero ammonia result its yellow color. I suppose this reagent might go bad and produce a greener zero.

 

[Fish Fan]

I believe this is commonly seen with the API Ammonia kit, it seems to show ~0.25 ppm, when other indicators would suggest that the concentration is likely near zero. This causes people to cycle their new tank for months on end because "the ammonia isn't going to zero". I would not say that your reagents have gone bad, it's just how the API kit works.

I hope that helps!

 

[kboogie]

I think it is important I make it clear that I use Hanna Checkers for everything where I want to understand an accurate measure of a parameter such as Nitrates. I use API tests kits as a binary indicator to determine if a parameter is a value greater than zero. I don’t use an API kit to determine the specific level of a parameter which is the primary area where the accuracy of the kit is rightfully questioned.

With that said, I’m running a new QT setup that uses media that was placed in my DT sump for several weeks. I tested the QT ammonia today hoping for a zero reading but it was greater than zero. This had me wondering, if the reagents went bad because it is an older less used kit, would the kit produce a false positive or would it produce a false negative?

How high is the total ammonia reading?

One of thr reagents is bleach and it would go bad by becoming weaker, which would give a lower than true value. The ferricyanide catalyst used in the test is what gives the zero ammonia result its yellow color. I suppose this reagent might go bad and produce a greener zero.

About 0.25 ppm. I like what you are saying about a potential greener zero reading.

I’m going to buy a new kit and see what it says

 

[kboogie]

I believe this is commonly seen with the API Ammonia kit, it seems to show ~0.25 ppm, when other indicators would suggest that the concentration is likely near zero. This causes people to cycle their new tank for months on end because "the ammonia isn't going to zero". I would not say that your reagents have gone bad, it's just how the API kit works.

I hope that helps!

This alines with what I’m seeing. The situation feels like it should be zero but it is light green and not the yellow of zero.

 

[D'sreef]

So when I swapped over my nano to my 40 gallon I was using an API kit that was a year old to test my water, and according to the test I was at or over 8ppm ammonia for a straight week. 0 casualties and the tank is looking really healthy. I was so confused. So I think there's something to API going bad and giving false really high readings.

 

[kboogie]

For giggles, I did a test on Zero TDS RODI water. The result is the same shade of green as when I test the tank water, with the difference being that it is not cloudy because there is no salt. I think I need to buy a new kit.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

About 0.25 ppm. I like what you are saying about a potential greener zero reading.

I’m going to buy a new kit and see what it says

0.25 ppm total ammonia is not any concern, whether it is real or test error.

This has more:

Ammonia is Our Friend!

Ammonia is Our Friend By Randy Holmes-Farley Yes, I know the title is provocative, and likely goes against much of what you read and hear in the reef aquarium hobby. I believe, however, that the hobby may have been harmed by the continual...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[kboogie]

Before dinner I picked up a Seachem Alert Combo Pack. I'll put it in tomorrow; it is dark in the bathroom.

 

[kboogie]

One hour of the Seachem Ammonia Alert and there does appear to be ammonia.

 

[Malcontent]

I do not know, and have not heard many folks suggest there’s has gone bad as opposed to just is not super accurate at the low end. I use the Seachem alert when I want to monitor ammonia, much as it annoys me to have to support them.

You can always buy from Pacific Sentry who I believe is the actual manufacturer.

How high is the total ammonia reading?

One of thr reagents is bleach and it would go bad by becoming weaker, which would give a lower than true value. The ferricyanide catalyst used in the test is what gives the zero ammonia result its yellow color. I suppose this reagent might go bad and produce a greener zero.

IME, the bleach goes first and it results in false negatives--very pale yellow liquid. Combining new bleach reagent with the old reagent fixes it.

 

[Dan_P]

You can always buy from Pacific Sentry who I believe is the actual manufacturer.



IME, the bleach goes first and it results in false negatives--very pale yellow liquid. Combining new bleach reagent with the old reagent fixes it.

I agree that Pacific Sentry is a viable alternative.

 

[Fish Fan]

I do not know, and have not heard many folks suggest there’s has gone bad as opposed to just is not super accurate at the low end. I use the Seachem alert when I want to monitor ammonia, much as it annoys me to have to support them.

Do you trust those ammo ia alert badges to be accurate? I'm asking because I believe that Jay H. and VetteGuy both say they are not accurate, possibly developed for freshwater use, not saltwater.

 

[edd59]

why dont you buy a decent test kit, red sea or salifert? api always shows .25 minimum, salt or fresh.
i was using api always shows amo in my pond. my salifert shows 0. api are cheap because they are low quality. red sea in my reef shows 0, not that i test it anymore but i have 30 adult koi in my 5000 gal pond so i get concerned with amo.

 

[Malcontent]

why dont you buy a decent test kit, red sea or salifert? api always shows .25 minimum, salt or fresh.
i was using api always shows amo in my pond. my salifert shows 0. api are cheap because they are low quality. red sea in my reef shows 0, not that i test it anymore but i have 30 adult koi in my 5000 gal pond so i get concerned with amo.

API can show "zero" in freshwater if you test it with water fresh out of the DI.

 

[kboogie]

why dont you buy a decent test kit, red sea or salifert? api always shows .25 minimum, salt or fresh.
i was using api always shows amo in my pond. my salifert shows 0. api are cheap because they are low quality. red sea in my reef shows 0, not that i test it anymore but i have 30 adult koi in my 5000 gal pond so i get concerned with amo.

I understand your question. There are a couple of reasons why I use Hanna Checkers and API test kits. When I care about knowing the difference between specific levels such as nitrates where I care about the difference between 5, 10, 20, 30, 50, 100, I will use a Hanna Checker and avoid the absurdity that is looking at the color scales and worrying about is the lighting is correct, or am I holding the vial the right distance from the card, and all the other nonsense that happens with this style of test kit. For things like ammonia, I only care whether it is zero or not.

In my long history with multiple test kits (Redsea, API, Salifret, Nyos, etc), I've found that API test kits, when not expired, do a perfectly acceptable job of telling me if it is zero or not. The core element of my question is, I am not aware of what happens with an API Ammonia test kit when it goes. I don't know if it shows zero when there is ammonia present or vice versa.

 

[kboogie]

why dont you buy a decent test kit, red sea or salifert? api always shows .25 minimum, salt or fresh.
i was using api always shows amo in my pond. my salifert shows 0. api are cheap because they are low quality. red sea in my reef shows 0, not that i test it anymore but i have 30 adult koi in my 5000 gal pond so i get concerned with amo.

I understand your question. There are a couple of reasons why I use Hanna Checkers and API test kits. When I care about knowing the difference between specific levels such as nitrates where I care about the difference between 5, 10, 20, 30, 50, 100, I will use a Hanna Checker and avoid the absurdity that is looking at the color scales and worrying about is the lighting is correct, or am I holding the vial the right distance from the card, and all the other nonsense that happens with this style of test kit. For things like ammonia, I only care whether it is zero or not.

In my long history with multiple test kits (Redsea, API, Salifret, Nyos, etc), I've found that API test kits, when not expired, do a perfectly acceptable job of telling me if it is zero or not. The core element of my question is, I am not aware of what happens with an API Ammonia test kit when it goes. I don't know if it shows zero when there is ammonia present or vice versa.

To add to this. If I'm testing three QT tanks daily for ammonia because they are QT tanks, using a Hanna Checker is $3 a day of reagent cost, where the API is $0.30 per day. Additionally, I don't care about the gradient (how much ammonia is present), I only care about the binary result (is there ammonia or not).

Based on the responses in this post, it strongly suggests an expired API kit will generate a green-tinted zero read.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

One hour of the Seachem Ammonia Alert and there does appear to be ammonia.

Not enough to be any concern. :)

 

[Fish Fan]

Not enough to be any concern. :)

Randy, I asked above, but I just want to confirm that, ostensibly, you put a lot of trust in these Seachem ammonia alert badges? I'm asking because I know guys like Jay H. and Vetteguy have said that they don't trust these badges, I believe they have said they are really for freshwater use (if useful at all)?

I'd appreciate your thoughts on these badges; thank you for your help!