Yeh I think that's my best option as it stands right now. I don't have the room to set up a large enough tank to accommodate all of my fish for 7 weeks if the yellow tang dies I'll put everything else into the 17 gallon treat them and let the main tank die off. And leave the QT set up for future use.
WHAT THE HECK IS HAPPENING?
- Thread starter garra671
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Yeh I think that's my best option as it stands right now. I don't have the room to set up a large enough tank to accommodate all of my fish for 7 weeks if the yellow tang dies I'll put everything else into the 17 gallon treat them and let the main tank die off. And leave the QT set up for future use.
@Humblefish I just read your article on the quarantine tank. If and when I set one up. I will be ok adding water from my DT to start it immediately right? I'm already going to be treating for the disease that's in the DT so it makes no difference if that's the water I use correct?
The downside to using DT water in your particular situation is there will be velvet dinospores already in that water seeking to latch onto more fish. They won't be killed until you get the copper (or CP) up to therapeutic levels. Using freshly mixed SW means the fish enter disease free water, and only have to deal with trophonts already on the body. This buys you more time to get the copper level up before the trophonts drop off, encyst and release dinospores into the water.
@Humblefish @Sabellafella @bknapp @robert @melypr1985 @melev here is a video of the tang and clownfish feeding. let me know what you think.
Mas Frags
New Member
I carry a wide selection of Anthias in my store as stated in the previous message there is not many items out there that can 100% guarantee kill it beside copper and TTM treatments then you have to worry about the internal parasites that they might have if they have velvet you should look at them very carefully at the store you're getting them from make sure they have carried him for quite some time from one day to the next as anybody that has Anthias that are doing very well expecially the harder to find breeds which I like to carry myself they're typically a very deep water anywhere from around 100 feet on down to 350 feet for one sometimes bringing them to the surface too quickly can hurt their air bladder which you should always make sure that they're swimming properly second you should always ask the LFS how long they have had them for if they have treated them and if they did what did they treat them well spend lots of time looking at that fish or the fish that you're thinking of getting make sure they show you that they are feeding if that fish does not eat for you in their store.? As Fish love to eat and if they have been at the store for quarantine time which all stores should do but don't which all people that purchase Fish should also do that don't and understand the different diseases and different parasites that can actually become part of that fish and what it takes to get rid of them properly there are many theories and many different ways that people say they do it this way they do it that way it works for them it works for me this way I am sorry for the loss of your fish I am glad that you were able to bring your yellow tang back as it sounds like that's the most important one in your aquarium to you but if you did have it now it is living in your system as the previous statements aboveground showed you the life cycle of Ich I guess my biggest point is no the LFS you're buying from make sure you see fish eat before you buy them if they don't eat before you buy them don't buy them and find out if a quarantine there Fish and if they actually Medicaid and when they're quarantining on there are many stores out there that don't want to spend the time and the patience of holding on to Fish for 6 weeks before they're up for sale to make sure that they're clean of parasites or any disease but just because they are clean of parasites in any disease does not mean that by the time you get it home that has been stressed out especially Anthias and there are several other strains out there of fish that stress really easy but that's what I would ask yourself before you go buying anymore I hope my advices help you a little I am NOT trying to be negative towards any LFSS every store owner does things their way I do things my way I know all the customers that have purchased Fish from my store and I do not sell lots of fish I sell mostly high end Fish and hard to keep Fish more expert level keeping but so far today none of my customers have come back and complained of any problems with the fish they have received from my store. Again I am sorry for your problems you're having be careful if you add anything else if you did have it there are lots of natural additives you can add to your aquarium that says its Reef safe to get rid of many diseases but I have not found one yet that actually really works or that does not take a slight toll on your coral good luck happy reefing
By the way one of my favorite is the Borbonius Anthia
By the way one of my favorite is the Borbonius Anthia
melypr1985
totally addicted
They look pretty good. I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking for...You may have to remind me
melypr1985
totally addicted
looking at them, I'd say your right. If it was velvet they would be dead or look way worse than that by now.
robert
Valuable Member
Well that fish doen't look to be on deaths door...congratulations...whatever you've done it seems to be helping. No more blood spot on the fin either.
As to your anthias - you picked those up at Aquatic Collection? They used to be pretty much pure corals, but I know they've put in a large fish section. They're a bit far for me so I don't get up that way too often. They also tend to do bulk ordering - so you may pay less but with more risk.
I try and get my fish from Tropical Fish International. The store doesn' t look like much but the proprioitor, Ireene, is 100% a fish lady. She'll sit on a step ladder for hours it seems - hand feeding every new arrivial. She doesn't do bulk anything...
I know she's a big believer in garlic - always fresh - although she warns me off of feeding it to some species. If you need a particular fish in the future - I suggest you tell her what you want and let her get it for you - shell hold it and get it eating make sure its healthy and she'll call you when its ready to come pick it up and take it home. You can't ask for more from a LFS.
Some will tell you garlic works wonders - others, that it will kill your fish...I think the truth lies somewhere in the middle. A fish that eats stands a better chance than one that doesn't - so if all it did was entice the fish to eat then its a plus. It has been ascribed antibacterial properties and antiparisitic properties - are these are at work in your fish - no one knows...but since secondary bacterial infection is usually the killer... it again would be a plus...
Ich and velvet find their host through smell - chemotaxis...does garlic interfere with this somehow making your fish a more difficult target for the parasite? - maybe - I don't find anything to either support this or refute it...maybe others have a study to point to.
There is some concern with allacin, being a terresterial plant lipid - causing damage to fish over the long term...this may be species specific or more general - there are studies which seem to say this - but I have not read them myself. If the allicin is injected or is present in food in the study would be a big differentiator. You can't always apply these studies to your home aquarium.
Either way - the longer you keep the fish eating the better chance you have for a happy result. 14-20 days - the fishes immunity will be running full force and the imminent leathal threat from either ich or velvet will be gone...
Sorry about the anthias...they can be difficult to get eating even without ich...
As to your anthias - you picked those up at Aquatic Collection? They used to be pretty much pure corals, but I know they've put in a large fish section. They're a bit far for me so I don't get up that way too often. They also tend to do bulk ordering - so you may pay less but with more risk.
I try and get my fish from Tropical Fish International. The store doesn' t look like much but the proprioitor, Ireene, is 100% a fish lady. She'll sit on a step ladder for hours it seems - hand feeding every new arrivial. She doesn't do bulk anything...
I know she's a big believer in garlic - always fresh - although she warns me off of feeding it to some species. If you need a particular fish in the future - I suggest you tell her what you want and let her get it for you - shell hold it and get it eating make sure its healthy and she'll call you when its ready to come pick it up and take it home. You can't ask for more from a LFS.
Some will tell you garlic works wonders - others, that it will kill your fish...I think the truth lies somewhere in the middle. A fish that eats stands a better chance than one that doesn't - so if all it did was entice the fish to eat then its a plus. It has been ascribed antibacterial properties and antiparisitic properties - are these are at work in your fish - no one knows...but since secondary bacterial infection is usually the killer... it again would be a plus...
Ich and velvet find their host through smell - chemotaxis...does garlic interfere with this somehow making your fish a more difficult target for the parasite? - maybe - I don't find anything to either support this or refute it...maybe others have a study to point to.
There is some concern with allacin, being a terresterial plant lipid - causing damage to fish over the long term...this may be species specific or more general - there are studies which seem to say this - but I have not read them myself. If the allicin is injected or is present in food in the study would be a big differentiator. You can't always apply these studies to your home aquarium.
Either way - the longer you keep the fish eating the better chance you have for a happy result. 14-20 days - the fishes immunity will be running full force and the imminent leathal threat from either ich or velvet will be gone...
Sorry about the anthias...they can be difficult to get eating even without ich...
@Humblefish yeh im still not out of the woods yet though, im pretty confident with how fat the tang is and how much he's eating that he'll pull through it. but im just so much happier now that i know it isnt velvet.
If your intentions are to ride it out, all you can do is wait & see. I wrote this article on what I know of ich management: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/
There is no shortage of suggestions when it comes to ich management: garlic, ginger, UV, diatom filter, blackworms/fish oil; it's all been tried by someone at some point.
I feed my fish live blackworms every day. That MUST be why my tank is ich free! Just kidding but I do. And it is.If your intentions are to ride it out, all you can do is wait & see. I wrote this article on what I know of ich management: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/
There is no shortage of suggestions when it comes to ich management: garlic, ginger, UV, diatom filter, blackworms/fish oil; it's all been tried by someone at some point.
Assuming it is ich you can try to manage it but it will flare up every now and then. Especially when adding new fish. I'd take the spare time you have now, and set your self up with a nice qt system that can accommodate them all. Do the fallow period, some good research, and quarantine correctly. Give yourself the confidence to buy a $300 fish and know that you'll succeed with it for 10 or 20 years disease free.
@Humblefish @Triggreef
so the ich is flared up right now. provided i wait it out and see what happens (dont have a ton more options at this moment) how long will the flare last? is there something that could be keeping the fish from building up there natural immune system to fight it off like it was before hand?
so the ich is flared up right now. provided i wait it out and see what happens (dont have a ton more options at this moment) how long will the flare last? is there something that could be keeping the fish from building up there natural immune system to fight it off like it was before hand?
If your intentions are to ride it out, all you can do is wait & see. I wrote this article on what I know of ich management: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/
There is no shortage of suggestions when it comes to ich management: garlic, ginger, UV, diatom filter, blackworms/fish oil; it's all been tried by someone at some point.
what about API super ich cure? i used it on my freshwater tank when i was first starting out in the aquarium hobby and it worked. i think its copper based though so i wouldnt be able to use it in my DT but i can use it on saltwater why doesnt anyone else use it?
Typically, the trophonts feed on the fish for 3-7 days (dependent upon strain). They drop off, encyst, and then free swimming theronts seek out fish to attack. Once they attach to the fish, they become trophonts and the life cycle begins all over again. This life cycle typically takes <28 days to complete, but it can take longer dependent upon strain, temperature, etc.
Is it this stuff: http://www.thatpetplace.com/super-ick-cure-powder-packets-10pk
If so, active ingredients are Malachite Green and Nitrofurazone. Those may be useful for eradicating freshwater ich, but would only help with bacterial infections in saltwater fish. Even so, I would never dump those two chemicals in a reef tank.
Typically, the trophonts feed on the fish for 3-7 days (dependent upon strain). They drop off, encyst, and then free swimming theronts seek out fish to attack. Once they attach to the fish, they become trophonts and the life cycle begins all over again. This life cycle typically takes <28 days to complete, but it can take longer dependent upon strain, temperature, etc.
Is it this stuff: http://www.thatpetplace.com/super-ick-cure-powder-packets-10pk
If so, active ingredients are Malachite Green and Nitrofurazone. Those may be useful for eradicating freshwater ich, but would only help with bacterial infections in saltwater fish. Even so, I would never dump those two chemicals in a reef tank.
yeh thats it. and i know not to put it into the reef tank. what are the actual solid cures for ich? dont just say copper. what type of medicine? is there stuff thats mixed with copper? can you link me something? whenever i try to search for it all i get is BS stuff
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