What to do with these parameters?

[Ryan15236]

Tank is 1.5 years old 180 gallon mixed reef. Stocking
Des. Sailfin tang
Hippo tang
Purple tang
Convict tang
Fox face
CBB
Longnose hawk
Melanarus wrasse

Tank had uglies that lasted till August this year then I started consistent husbandry when I checked parameters after uglies I was at 40ppm nitrate and 0.5 phosphate. I started weekly 10 gallon water changes, changing filter socks 2-3 days, and dosing 0.5 ml LC into skimmer daily

I have stopped LC dosing. I have still been changing filter socks, I am down to 5 gallon WC a week. Nutrients still dropping. After 1 week since last water changes parameters are here

 

[CHSUB]

Continue what you are doing…not seeing any problems.

 

[Ryan15236]

Continue what you are doing…not seeing any problems.

Any concerns with nutrients potentially bottoming out?

 

[Cthulukelele]

As long as you test again in a few weeks and get similar readings, those are basically ideal mix reef parameters

 

[CHSUB]

Any concerns with nutrients potentially bottoming out? NO!

Here are my nutrients on my last ICP test. My no3, for example, is 5,400% lower than yours and not an exaggeration. Your levels are fine especially with a good fish load. Be more concerned about the tank inhabitants vs hobby test kit values. Aquariums natural move towards filth, it is hard to keep them clean. You are doing it right!

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

The text says 0.5 ppm phosphate but the picture says 0.08 ppm?

I would not use LC at 0.08 ppm.

 

[exnisstech]

My mixed reefs have been algae free with NO4 20-40 and PO4 0.3-0.9+ Ive only had nuisance algae problems in tanks with lower levels.

 

[Ryan15236]

The text says 0.5 ppm phosphate but the picture says 0.08 ppm?

I would not use LC at 0.08 ppm.

0.5 ppm was in August after the ugly stage was finished and I started adopting consistent husbandry. I have stopped LC. It was part of my initial husbandry schedule but I have been removing or reducing parts of the husbandry schedule based off weekly test results. Picture is where I am at currently

 

[Ryan15236]

My mixed reefs have been algae free with NO4 20-40 and PO4 0.3-0.9+ Ive only had nuisance algae problems in tanks with lower levels.

This is talking to dirty to me. I have been thinking about adding some more fish. I have yet to have a week where nutrients didn’t decrease.

 

[Ryan15236]

Any concerns with nutrients potentially bottoming out? NO!

Here are my nutrients on my last ICP test. My no3, for example, is 5,400% lower than yours and not an exaggeration. Your levels are fine especially with a good fish load. Be more concerned about the tank inhabitants vs hobby test kit values. Aquariums natural move towards filth, it is hard to keep them clean. You are doing it right!

Excellent thanks for the info I will continue schedule. I am in a routine and would like to keep it that way. I haven’t ran ICP test on my reef but I don’t want to drop WC lower than they are since I am only mainly testing those three parameters

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

FWIW, these are my target recommendations along with the rationale:

Randy’s Thoughts on Nutrient Target Ranges

Thoughts on Nutrient Target Ranges by Randy Holmes-Farley Almost nothing in the world of reef aquarium chemistry causes as much discussion as selecting and maintaining ranges for nitrate and phosphate. Some aquarists want low targets, some want...

www.reef2reef.com

• 4. What targets seem reasonable? Of course, that depends on all the other factors at play, such as types of corals, availability of ammonia, particulate foods, etc. However, for a mature mixed reef, this would be how I personally would run it:
  • Let nitrate float between 5 ppm and 50 ppm. I’d use gentle export in this range, such as growing macroalgae.
  • Above 50 ppm, I’d begin to focus more on reducing it, by organic carbon dosing, turf or macroalgae, etc.
  • Below 5 ppm, I’d begin to dose ammonia or feed more. The target level might drop lower if dosing ammonia, just like the heavy in/heavy out scenario where nitrate may not be as needed.
  • Let phosphate float between about 0.06 ppm and 0.3 ppm. This range is higher than I’ve recommended in the past. I’d use gentle export in this range, such as growing macroalgae.
  • Above about 0.3 ppm, I’d begin to focus more on reducing it, by turf or macroalgae, or a binder such as GFO or lanthanum (has its own risks to tangs). If a binder: GO SLOW. Turf and macroalgae will typically be slow enough.
  • Below 0.06 ppm, I’d begin to dose sodium phosphate or feed more to get the level up.

 

[exnisstech]

This is talking to dirty to me. I have been thinking about adding some more fish. I have yet to have a week where nutrients didn’t decrease.

Nutrient levels are a mystery to me. More fish help a bit but overfeeding tanks with low nutrients has never done much for me to raise levels. In addition to the mixed reef with higher levels I have two tanks I dose ammonium bicarb for NO3 and dose PO4 just to keep N and P detectable. Battling dinos now in one of those low level tanks. I never intevene trying to control N and P to a certain level in a new tank. I always let them run for months to see where they settle in naturally then I roll with those levels as long as the tank looks good.

This tank run NO3 25-40 and PO4 0.3-0.9+. I do run a little rowaphos when my Hanna ULR flashes 0.9 PO4 because I like to at least have an idea where I'm at. I do 25g WCs every 7 days, total volume is 285g I run socks changed regularly,a skimmer and an ATS
Coming up on 2 years

This tank has run low levels that require dosing to keep them detectable. Been that way for almost 3 years. Skimmer for aeration that never gets cleaned, a reefmat that I let overflow a few times a week. Very small sporadic WCs to vacuum detritus, 2g every 2-3 weeks total volume 65g

Both tanks are fed 5+ times a day using frozen, flakes, and pellets.

 

[Ryan15236]

UPDATE: 1 month later. I have continued 5 Gallon weekly water changes. No Lanthum Chloride. Socks changed every 2-3 days

Since last post I decided to also stock more fish. I have added
2 azure damsels
2 Talbots damsels
2 sapphire damsels
Cleaner wrasse
Yellow Coris wrasse
Blue star leopard wrasse
Sixline wrasse
Royal gramma
Tomini tang

I also decided to put my auto feeder back online and feed NLS pellets once daily
I also feed 1 sheet of nori in morning
2 cubes of mysis ( 1 in am and 1 in pm)

I have new numbers and interesting at nitrate has now reached zero. Phosphate minor elevation 0.08 to now 0.1ppm
Alkalinity consumption is increasing. It is now 7.6 dKH. I have also increased my aquaforest 1+2+3+ by 6ml daily

 

[CHSUB]

I would not worry about no3 and be mindful of over feeding. A reading of zero on the Hanna HR is fine and desirable. If you are curious about the actual level get the LR Checker, however not required.

Hanna states this about the HR, “
The HI782 was designed to quickly and easily measure nitrate levels for aquarists with higher-than-average nutrient levels. This includes saltwater aquariums that are fish-only or have corals that can tolerate elevated levels of nitrate at 30 ppm or more.

Very low levels of nitrate are critical for many saltwater reef aquariums, as nitrate can cause damage and possible death to certain delicate corals and invertebrates. For this reason, the HI781 offers unmatched precision in the measurement of very low levels of nitrate (0.00 to 5.00 ppm).

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I would worry about nitrate, unless you are very carefully monitoring all of the organisms that you want to keep. You went from in my target range to outside of it. Be careful you do not risk dinos.