What to do with this rock?

[domination2580]

I'm thinking about adding on a second membrane on my system and a second stage di. I wonder if that would help.

 

[cmcoker]

In my experience po4 seems to be more difficult than nitrates to remove. But I was adding po4 every time I did a water change for a long time.

Maybe @Randy Holmes-Farley can chime in, but I believe he has said that even if your water change had 0.03ppm by the time you add it to the tank it is diluted down to be inconsequential, when Compared to the amount added with one feeding.

Yes, it is harder to remove. I don't find water changes to move it that much, and temporary at that.

I've been battling gha outbreak from a crash due to neglecting tank maintenance and overfeeding. Had been dealing with a back problem that limited my tank maintenance last year, and the tank had got a lot more pellets from my wife feeding, but I understand what caused my issue and am working hard to correct it.

Currently I am carbon dosing, have increased water changes, running cheato in fuge on reverse light cycle, peroxide treatment on problem areas, manual removal, more controlled feedings.

I am making progress, I'm not running high range tests for nitrate and phosphate anymore, things have stopped dying and are actually growing again, algae is declining, and my clownfish spawned yesterday [emoji1].

 

[domination2580]

Everything else in My tank is growing. I'm guessing it's because my gha isn't on the rocks or sand as bad as the back of the tank.

 

[cmcoker]

Everything else in My tank is growing. I'm guessing it's because my gha isn't on the rocks or sand as bad as the back of the tank.

Yep, I'd be proactive and attack it now. Kill the GHA and work on reducing nutrients. I agree with @brandon429 that you should killed the problem while addressing the nutrients.
I was recovering from back surgery when my algae started and wasnt physically able to do manual removal, plus my clean up crew needs increasing.

Got some turbo snails coming out of qt next weekend to help out[emoji106]

 

[domination2580]

Was thinking of getting a molly blenny.

 

[melev]

I'm thinking about adding on a second membrane on my system and a second stage di. I wonder if that would help.

You can add a second membrane to utilize more of the water efficiently. This will reduce the total volume of waste water, since some is being run through that secondary membrane to capture m0re RO water overall. However, there is no benefit to be derived by adding a second DI unless you just are too lazy to change the first one. Double DIs are great for maintenance accounts where a company checks on the tank once a week or every two weeks.

DI resin absorbs the last of the TDS in the water. Once it is full, it can leach back out and add to the TDS hitting the second stage, basically combining both and making the second one work hard (depletes more quickly by comparison). Better to measure the TDS of the DI each time you run it, and when it is spent, replace it.

 

[melev]

Some rocks have known issues, like dry Pukani from BRS. Most those lanthanum chloride threads are full of pukani rock being treated..

Marc @melev uses phosphate Rx for phosphate control, which I believe is lanthanum chloride. He said his tangs are ok iirc, but does dose in sump. Tangs seem to be what problems are most often reported with.

I'd remove some rock and treat in a 5g bucket, there's a good article on reefkeeping.com about it. Let me find the link

I do, and all my tangs, other fish, anemones, corals, zoas, etc come out of it unaffected. You can use a 10 micron sock to capture it more quickly from the water, if you wish. I've been using Phosphate Rx for 10 years with my reefs and never had any issues arise. I follow the directions closely.

 

[domination2580]

That was the big thing. More efficient on the waste water.