Who actually has 40+ psi of water pressure from their house?

Brian_68

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For me it is around 100 psi coming into the house and for my lawn sprinkler system, 60 psi is what I have set the pressure regulator for the indoor faucets and RO unit. Could set it higher but that can cause issues with pipes and faucets.
 

Crashjack

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My gauge on my RO unit shows 52 PSI pretty consistently, but it takes a few minutes to get my INCOMING TDS down to 2 (it starts at around 12).
 

bluprntguy

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Y
i adjusted them to point down more, which seems to work best for those typs of floats. Otherwise the water level is an inch or more over the attachment location of the valve. With low water pressure the waste side of the rodi seems to continue to run even when the float valve is closed.

Not every RODI comes with the inline auto-shut off valve on the unit. Does yours have that?
 

Silent

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My water pressure is so high we develop leaks I have to fix. There is always 1 fitting or faucet that ends up leaking so I have to go around and tighten or replace the little canisters in the faucet handles.
 

LCC

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Not every RODI comes with the inline auto-shut off valve on the unit. Does yours have that?
It has one. After the top off reservoir is full the float valve stops any more water from coming in. Then the auto shut off on the rodi will start making a clacking/rattling sound. You can actually see the auto shutoff shaking. The rodi waste line will contine to drip.
I have always attributed this to the 42-45 psi comming into the rodi system.
 

bar|none

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150psi on the frost free direct line. I dial it back to 80. If you have low pressure, boost will make you happy.

Oh and inlet tds is 7. Yeah lucky.

This line is before it enters the house where it is dialed back to a pressure that will not blow up the plumbing.

But the above begs the question. Most houses have pressure reducers where the main shutoff is. Plumbers like to dial this down to reduce their liability. If you are sampling pressure from the house. It may already be reduced.
 
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Jeto2004

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Up to 120 psi before pressure regulator, 75 to 80 psi after pressure regulator. 120 psi is great for the sprinkler system but not the rest of the house......
 

jd371

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My gauge on my RO unit shows 52 PSI pretty consistently, but it takes a few minutes to get my INCOMING TDS down to 2 (it starts at around 12).
Pretty much the same for me. I'm closer to 60 PSI and few minutes to get to 2 TDS and another minute or two to get 0 TDS coming out of the DI stage.
 

JoshH

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My gauge on my RO unit shows 52 PSI pretty consistently, but it takes a few minutes to get my INCOMING TDS down to 2 (it starts at around 12).

If your Incoming TDS is 12 and out of the membrane is 2, I'd personally drop the membrane all together and run a triple stage DI after the carbon and sediment filters. :)

Personally I'm at 85 PSI and loving it, almost mandatory for a dual membrane setup though, pressure going into the second membrane barely creeps over 40 PSI
 

Crashjack

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Pretty much the same for me. I'm closer to 60 PSI and few minutes to get to 2 TDS and another minute or two to get 0 TDS coming out of the DI stage.
If your Incoming TDS is 12 and out of the membrane is 2, I'd personally drop the membrane all together and run a triple stage DI after the carbon and sediment filters. :)

No, outgoing (after membrane/DI) always measures 0. My incoming (before membrane/DI) runs around 12 immediately after I start running water, and then 3-4 minutes later, my incoming TDS decreases to 2... I was sort of bragging about my artesian well water.
 

JoshH

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No, outgoing (after membrane/DI) always measures 0. My incoming (before membrane/DI) runs around 12 immediately after I start running water, and then 3-4 minutes later, my incoming TDS decreases to 2... I was sort of bragging about my artesian well water.

My post was more so suggesting skipping your membrane altogether and running just sediment, carbon and DI. 12 TDS is Pretty low and DI alone could easily handle it. Honestly your membrane should be putting out virtually 0 TDS with that low incoming TDS and if it's not it might be more worth it to skip it :)
 

Buckeye Hydro

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It has one. After the top off reservoir is full the float valve stops any more water from coming in. Then the auto shut off on the rodi will start making a clacking/rattling sound. You can actually see the auto shutoff shaking. The rodi waste line will contine to drip.
I have always attributed this to the 42-45 psi comming into the rodi system.
Your ASOV malfunction is unlikely to be associated with low feedwater pressure. 42 to 45 psi is nothing unusual/uncommon. When a hydraulic ASOV doesn't work, it is caused by one (or more) of three things:
1. ASOV has debris in it or the rubber seal has hardened. Solution: clean out debris or get new ASOV. https://www.buckeyehydro.com/automatic-shut-off-valves/
2. Seal at the purified water outlet is leaking. Solution: disassemble float valve and clean/lube the rubber seal; or replace the float valve. https://www.buckeyehydro.com/float-valves-1/
3. Check valve between the RO membrane housing permeate port and the low pressure port on the ASOV isn't working correctly. Solution: replace the check valve. https://www.buckeyehydro.com/check-valves/

Russ
 

tuesdayd

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I've got city water at 75 psi and about 35 tds incoming. Once it passes through the RO membrane it's down to 1 so my DI doesn't really have much to do.
 

Heabel7

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I’m at 45psi, super high tds from the tap and I must have high co2. I burn trough a anion resin only in 3-4weeks. That’s only 30 gallons for water changes and maybe 2 gallons a day evaporations. So less than 100gallons many times. Stinks. Before anion only I was getting 3 weeks tops.
 

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