Will hydrogen peroxide hurt SPS?

Herby’s reef

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Ok, I have a question that I feel I know the answer to, but I thought I would see what you guys think. I was watching rotter tube on YouTube yesterday and he has struggled with GHA forever and finally cured it by using a syringe to dose 12% hydrogen peroxide directly on his GHA. I have one rock in my tank with some GHA on it from when I tried to increase my nitrates and phosphates by dosing and got a bit carried away. My nitrates and phosphates are now 2 for nitrate (NYOS) and undetectable on phosphates by Hannah. The green hair algae still seems to be going strong. I am nervous to dose hydrogen peroxide though because my tank is mostly sps. I assume my nervousness is warranted. I only have a small amount of algae, and it is only on one rock. I would rather keep it than take any risk of hurting my sps. What do you guys think?


Also, my tangs and foxface seem to have no interest in the GHA. Should I greatly decrease their feeding and see if that will make them eat it? I have always struggled with too low of nutrients so I always fed them daily, but now I have backed off to every other day. Should I go to less than that?
 

brandon429

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There are ways to with with sps and p


1 mil per ten gallons any way you want to apply it, max once every other day, is safe for most. Use half on first go, to assess reaction

There is a large peroxide thread with work examples in the nuisance algae forum, why not remove the rock and kill algae externally

Tangs can be fed by normal feed, and algae takeover risk is negative I say kill it

If you choose to dose in tank then lighting is reduced during the time, simulating extended cloudy week. A hidden trick to reducing free radical stress imparted by water dosing when external rock cleaning is better in every case but never agreed to no matter what is to lower then re ramp system lighting a little during the dose run

Post pics
 
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There are ways to with with sps and p


1 mil per ten gallons any way you want to apply it, max once every other day, is safe for most. Use half on first go, to assess reaction

There is a large peroxide thread with work examples in the nuisance algae forum, why not remove the rock and kill algae externally

Tangs can be fed by normal feed, and algae takeover risk is negative I say kill it

Post pics

Ok, I will check that thread, I was not sure if this was an sps or an algae question, but I posted here because I am primarily concerned with my sps. I can live with the algae if I must. I am scared to remove the rock, it has anemones and two encrusted sps on it, so I dont really want to treat outside of tank. Would you remove in this situation? I know the anemone and coral will be safe out of water for a bit, but one of the sps is my favorite Pink Floyd, so I really want to be safe with it! It is small, but has definitely encrusted.
 

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They should always be removed and treated, our thread has me draining my own sps tank down to air for thirty minutes



It's true there are twenty ways to adjust it, we like the surgery method as it alters zero water params.

Your delicates can be water bottle misted with saltwater, specifically because they're delicates I wouldn't do water dosing, external is better. They want consistent params, which peroxide briefly affects. Air exposure and sps are not exclusive, they're tough.

This is neat, this is where skip cycle work comes into play, ability to access without loss.

Our thread is heavy on incremental testing, never subjecting someone's whole tank to a guess.

I'd like to link this thread as an example since we're careful with that Floyd $

The first increment test here isn't peroxide, it's emersion testing.

Lift out rock for one minute, spray the frags/colonies and keep em wet but emersed for a minute or so, put back.

If frags are ok in two days, repeat, but with the knife rasping on algae first to target remove and dig out holdfasts, then use peroxide on the clean spot. This makes the most use of your second access time, hoping for no redo, and we modeled safe air access before taking action keeping with the safe modes from the thread.

Because the tank has prized sps I wouldn't dose, yet I'd certainly use peroxide and a kitchen knife that way overall tank params stay the same


If one minute emersion test is risky for that $ then do thirty seconds. If they're fine off thirty seconds misted, then one or two misted minutes while you dental clean the rocks and make your algae gone immediately is harmless

The main benefit of the thread is the linked pages to reefcentral and nano reef. Com showing ten yrs of tank drains with no harm. Your unique challenge is neat because though we have no direct examples of high end Floyd work, we have all those years of air access, it really hedges our safety, as any action you take or dose beyond adding snails is a calculated risk, as is doing nothing. Those invasions posted in my thread occurred because they hesitated. They wish in retrospect to have a one rock issue= action time


bulky threads allows for pattern connecting, patterns show that full tank dosing is it tame at one or two mils per ten gallons and we did some decent lps and clam tanks as 1:10 in reefcentral thread. If forced to testify in a court of reef law I'd say external surgery is best safest current science, not water tinkering. They're base plating because they like current params, let's hold imo


I even had some top shelf sps nano work done in private messages here things were ok.
 
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They should always be removed and treated, our thread has me draining my own sps tank down to air for thirty minutes



It's true there are twenty ways to adjust it, we like the surgery method as it alters zero water params.

Your delicates can be water bottle misted with saltwater, specifically because they're delicates I wouldn't do water dosing, external is better. They want consistent params, which peroxide briefly affects. Air exposure and sps are not exclusive, they're tough.

This is neat, this is where skip cycle work comes into play, ability to access without loss.

Our thread is heavy on incremental testing, never subjecting someone's whole tank to a guess.

I'd like to link this thread as an example since we're careful with that Floyd $

The first increment test here isn't peroxide, it's emersion testing.

Lift out rock for one minute, spray the frags/colonies and keep em wet but emersed for a minute or so, put back.

If frags are ok in two days, repeat, but with the knife rasping on algae first to target remove and dig out holdfasts, then use peroxide on the clean spot. This makes the most use of your second access time, hoping for no redo, and we modeled safe air access before taking action keeping with the safe modes from the thread.

Because the tank has prized sps I wouldn't dose, yet I'd certainly use peroxide and a kitchen knife that way overall tank params stay the same


If one minute emersion test is risky for that $ then do thirty seconds. If they're fine off thirty seconds misted, then one or two misted minutes while you dental clean the rocks and make your algae gone immediately is harmless

The main benefit of the thread is the linked pages to reefcentral and nano reef. Com showing ten yrs of tank drains with no harm. Your unique challenge is neat because though we have no direct examples of high end Floyd work, we have all those years of air access, it really hedges our safety, as any action you take or dose beyond adding snails is a calculated risk, as is doing nothing. Those invasions posted in my thread occurred because they hesitated. They wish in retrospect to have a one rock issue= action time

I even had some top shelf sps nano work done in private messages here things were ok.
Do you have a link to the thread?
 

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Love to. What's coming isn't to invade this thread lol it's to show patterns of access. Pick and choose parts which may apply to your tank. Research before application, I can see why you keep high end frags.

Aquarium reboots:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/s...9cdd3c0172b2999b2875e65b965&t=2082359&page=51

Scan pages for semi similar pics to yours then zero in on their details, every thread has yapping/pic scan is about right lol. We didn't rasp there, that's my first peroxide thread it was mainly about learning safe dosing for in tank work.

Nano reef version:
https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/268706-peroxide-saves-my-tank-with-pics-to-prove-it/

My thirty minute drain. No Floyd, but I do have JF x3 montis which i think are top shelf montis, blue berry pie was encrusting well and a new addition before this drain-this thirty minutes was it's very first, the rest were adapted. It's fine

From that detail says alot about two minutes, misted, I think the work applies in that way. the Blasto is sixteen, the brain coral is ten yrs old, they've done this drain hundreds of times/norm.



Twelve hours later, half hour seemingly dried :) no misting x 400 is what they get



Look at that stand-up example Rev and Reef2Reef sets for all forums: we can link to any site which builds reef science examples....R2R is reefcentral friendly, that's mighty right.

The one from Reef2Reef is the most up to date peroxide work. Rasping + whole tank declouding, full tank rework not just the target, is the top mode for 2018 and we use the sand rinse thread to show how tanks with sandbeds can be cleaned of algae fuel detritus. We try not to dose the water, but we deep dive access the tank, the algae and it's cause if invasive. To merely have one rock of algae isn't bad, that's natural but I'd still kill it, look what hesitation caused.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reef2reef-pest-algae-challenge-thread-hydrogen-peroxide.187042/
 
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Love to. What's coming isn't to invade this thread lol it's to show patterns of access. Pick and choose parts which may apply to your tank. Research before application, I can see why you keep high end frags.

Aquarium reboots:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/s...9cdd3c0172b2999b2875e65b965&t=2082359&page=51

Scan pages for semi similar pics to yours then zero in on their details, every thread has yapping/pic scan is about right lol. We didn't rasp there, that's my first peroxide thread it was mainly about learning safe dosing for in tank work.

Nano reef version:
https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/268706-peroxide-saves-my-tank-with-pics-to-prove-it/

My thirty minute drain. No Floyd, but I do have JF x3 montis which i think are top shelf montis, blue berry pie was encrusting well and a new addition before this drain-this thirty minutes was it's very first, the rest were adapted. It's fine

From that detail says alot about two minutes, misted, I think the work applies in that way. the Blasto is sixteen, the brain coral is ten yrs old, they've done this drain hundreds of times/norm.



Twelve hours later, half hour seemingly dried :) no misting x 400 is what they get



Look at that stand-up example Rev and Reef2Reef sets for all forums: we can link to any site which builds reef science examples....R2R is reefcentral friendly, that's mighty right.

The one from Reef2Reef is the most up to date peroxide work. Rasping + whole tank declouding, full tank rework not just the target, is the top mode for 2018 and we use the sand rinse thread to show how tanks with sandbeds can be cleaned of algae fuel detritus. We try not to dose the water, but we deep dive access the tank, the algae and it's cause if invasive. To merely have one rock of algae isn't bad, that's natural but I'd still kill it, look what hesitation caused.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reef2reef-pest-algae-challenge-thread-hydrogen-peroxide.187042/



So my tank is sps dominated tank, was started with dry rock and one rock from a previous tank that was 1 year old at the start of this tank. That is the rock with the algae. I have sand that I siphon weekly, and the only algae I had until recently was some minor bubble algae. That is where my problems started. I dosed vibrant because I had heard that it could kill bubble algae. The vibrant melted my cheato which caused my nitrates and phosphates to increase slightly, like nitrates 5 and phosphate.03 to.07. Since that time I have stopped vibrant, my refugium is healthy again and I run an clear water algae turf scrubber. I have low nutrients and I think the values are true because i only need to scrape glass 1 or 2 times per week. I don't want to decrease nutrient any lower because it burns the tips of my acros when I do. So now I have this algae and it does not want to go away. I have 2 tangs, a fox face, 4 urchins and a huge clean up crew and nothing touches it. I love the pink Floyd acro not because of the expense, I would Glady lose that amount of money to get rid of the algae, I love it just because I think it is beautiful.

So If I understand correctly, I should remove the rock to a tub, spray it with water every so often while scraping the algae I can off and then cover algae spots with peroxide? How do i apply and how long do i let it sit? Do I rinse before returning to tank? Will any emerald crabs or hermits hiding in rock be hurt? There are 3 bubble tip anemone on this rock. Will they be upset? It is a large rock. Will it upset my parameters to move it? I am posting a full tank shot now that I already had on my phone. When I get home from work I will post pics of the algae problem

Thanks,

David

C52B7D70-8AC7-4C71-8E03-E8DE6D4A32B8.jpeg
 
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Oh and I forgot to say the current tank is 1 year old and that makes the algae rock 2 years old
 

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You absolutely can hurt SPS with too much peroxide. Don't ask me how I know.... :oops:

But, follow the advice of others who have tried it and I believe it can be safely used.
 
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Ok here are pics. The bad rock is the one with the anemones on it. The other rocks hardly have any algae at all! I put pics of the good and the bad rock so you can see what I am working with

63368466-B6CB-4EF2-B9F0-7B52040D5ABB.jpeg


B183200D-E323-4658-BAED-85156ED8F8CA.jpeg


10E42934-183C-4713-A3BA-FD87D95276FB.jpeg


319951A5-A8E7-41A8-8A4B-56BA3B6E9CD8.jpeg


C10B3BDC-5FA7-40BC-B723-716633A998C2.jpeg


FC3D83C2-C10F-48C0-8AE3-64BD772A7EFE.jpeg


826A4276-1CDF-4808-B528-3DCC8F0B10F9.jpeg
 

brandon429

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Hey your type of challenge is my favorite

The kind where I can't see any invader just the best coralline rock in the world

I even pinch zoomed, I guess that live rock should sell for fifty per pound. Well done acting soon
For sure you could take out any rock such little invasion and knife debride it/precision so you don't lose the excellent coralline, then quick dsb area with peroxide. Can do whole run in twenty seconds no misting required i gotta vote that


It is my opinion after years of battle that rock that nice should be acted upon such that nobody can tell one way or another if there's a problem, excellent.
 
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Hey your type of challenge is my favorite

The kind where I can't see any invader just the best coralline rock in the world

I even pinch zoomed, I guess that live rock should sell for fifty per pound. Well done acting soon
For sure you could take out any rock such little invasion and knife debride it/precision so you don't lose the excellent coralline, then quick dsb area with peroxide. Can do whole run in twenty seconds no misting required i gotta vote that


It is my opinion after years of battle that rock that nice should be acted upon such that nobody can tell one way or another if there's a problem, excellent.


Thanks! The algae is pretty bad on the one rock though. It is the dark spots in the first three pictures.

David
 

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How are we here team just checking back
 
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I have been stuck at work and so haven't done it yet. I am a bit scared to remove it. This is my biggest rock. It is probably 2 ft by 1 ft by 6 Inches deep. I am not sure I can get it out without damaging coral, other rocks,or the tank!
 

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Not a prob. Pulling from the rc thread, you can easily do an underwater capture trick. Pumps off, some type of heat-shaped, roughly fitted to contour glad storage bowl flimsy plastic with hole in the end.

Invert bowl over your area, rough custom pre fit with a lighter to make curves.

Pumps off

Inject peroxide into the bowl, press hold onto area for five mins. Anything along those lines will concentrate a dose under the 1:10 but actually work better than 1:10
 

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