Which of your Acro’s prefers the highest amount of PAR and which prefer PAR under 200?
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Most of mine like 350+, but a few actually color up nicer in lower PAR. One of them is RR Starfire. Vivids Confetti also colors up nicer at around 250-300. Above that it turns all hot pink which is nice, but not as nice as the lower PAR coloration.Which of your Acro’s prefers the highest amount of PAR and which prefer PAR under 200?
Funny, we were talking about that earlier today.Most of mine like 350+, but a few actually color up nicer in lower PAR. One of them is RR Starfire. Vivids Confetti also colors up nicer at around 250-300. Above that it turns all hot pink which is nice, but not as nice as the lower PAR coloration.
RR Starfire:
Vivids Confetti:
It’s great to see rock so clean w/o a bunch of Vermetid’s on it.Most of mine like 350+, but a few actually color up nicer in lower PAR. One of them is RR Starfire. Vivids Confetti also colors up nicer at around 250-300. Above that it turns all hot pink which is nice, but not as nice as the lower PAR coloration.
RR Starfire:
Vivids Confetti:
It would be nice to know exactly where they collected some of these corals like the depth of the water the par and the turbidityI have several that I keep above 500 but my highest is BC Teen Wolf it is getting absolutely blasted by my Radions. Its also about the brightest yellow I've ever seen in an acro, its somewhere in the 650+ par range. I need to get an updated shot because it has really started to take off with new growth but I am on the road so I can't. The others in the over 500 club are ARC blazing wildfire, TGC Cherry Bomb, CC Bahama Mama Mille and a few others that I can't rememberoff the top of my head
As for low light JF Burning Banana Stylo. I actually can't get a picture of it because I don't have a good camera an its placed under a ledge where it only gets indirect light and about 150 per at best.
For what we do to them it doesn’t matter. 90% of coral in the ocean don’t look anything like what we do to them.It would be nice to know exactly where they collected some of these corals like the depth of the water the par and the turbidity
100% agree.Seems like millepora, spathulata, robusta/abrotanoides types, and gemmifera and humilis are happy with 700+. Between 200-300 a lot of corals are pretty happy, but below 200 is usually just a slow wasting away process without much real growth in my experience. Lokani seems to handle and prefer the low end of that range.
What do you mean by what we do to them?For what we do to them it doesn’t matter. 90% of coral in the ocean don’t look anything like what we do to them.
I had a frag of Walt Disney that grew into a dense ball being in 400+ par. I sold it just before I shut down my tank, but look what happened to a tiny frag in lower light at the bottom of the tank on a frag rack. It looked like it wanted to grow Better. Looked healthier to me.Walt Disney getting some nice blue and pinkish highlights at 650-700 par
Low light acro for me would be Chameleon, it gets nice coloration with yellow tips at 150-200 par, anything higher yellow tips go away.
Medium to high light for garf bonsai, at high light 500-700 it grows extremely well with bright yellow polyps.
At medium par 250-300 it does have much deeper navy-blue/ purple coloration.
Miyagi Tort does turn into purple mess with higher par. Very nice contrast between purple and green at 150-250 par.
Well for those who want their corals to look natural, or mimic a natural reef environment in their tank, then it would be helpful. I agree, if you're running some crazy all blue spectrum and 12dkh then it may not matter much. Trying to recreate certain conditions would be hard if you didn't know where the specific specimens are collected.For what we do to them it doesn’t matter. 90% of coral in the ocean don’t look anything like what we do to them.