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[NY_Caveman]

Yup, that should work. My only concern is that the GFCI device you have linked may or may not trip on a loss of power. It doesn't clearly say and both are common.

I believe this one should maintain closed on a loss of power.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OE3JHC/ref=psdc_6396124011_t1_B000XVG72G

“All Tower’s GFCI Adapters are designed to automatically reset to 'ON' position upon being plugged in or after a power interrupjtion. All automatic reset GFCI’s must be manually reset after a ground fault occurrence.”

EDIT: link
http://towermfg.com/gfci-adapter/

 

[Brew12]

The fixture is brand new, (consulting with manufacturer, ATI, via mail, but taking time and if I could find the problem it'd speed it up a bit) on off is controlled by computer/wifi, control box hasn't been opened.

Ah, ok. So it will use solid state switching to turn on and off.

I'll need to give this some thought. My initial feeling is a possible power quality issue from your utility which may require filtering. Could be the solid state device in the ATI controller has an issue, too.

 

[blackizzz]

Ah, ok. So it will use solid state switching to turn on and off.

I'll need to give this some thought. My initial feeling is a possible power quality issue from your utility which may require filtering. Could be the solid state device in the ATI controller has an issue, too.

After consulting with ATI customer service they’re suspecting the same as you, that the controller is sending out some kind of electricity when it should not. Thanks for the help!

 

[BZOFIQ]

I would need to know more about how you want it to operate to know if this would work.

I basically want to either operate it manually or if I'm not there and the humidity goes up for the humidity switch to switch it on. so it's and either/or kind of setup.

 

[Brew12]

I basically want to either operate it manually or if I'm not there and the humidity goes up for the humidity switch to switch it on. so it's and either/or kind of setup.

The main issue with hooking the two switches up in parallel is that while either could turn it on they would both need to be off to get the fan to stop. As long as you don't mind that the manual switch would not force the fan off it should work fine.

 

[BZOFIQ]

The main issue with hooking the two switches up in parallel is that while either could turn it on they would both need to be off to get the fan to stop. As long as you don't mind that the manual switch would not force the fan off it should work fine.

Yes, that's the idea. So if humidity level is high the fan continues to work, even with the manual switch in the off position.

It is my understanding that to achieve a controlled OFF state on demand I would have to wire a 3rd switch that would cut off power supplying the 2 switches in parallel. Thanks for confirming

 

[Awesome Dennis]

How about a 3 position switch

 

[Brew12]

It is my understanding that to achieve a controlled OFF state on demand I would have to wire a 3rd switch that would cut off power supplying the 2 switches in parallel. Thanks for confirming

That is correct. Good luck!

How about a 3 position switch

Unfortunately, it won't work for this application. The automatic sensor won't work correctly wired that way.

 

[BZOFIQ]

That is correct. Good luck!

.

Brew, Thanks for you help, much appreciated.

 

[Awesome Dennis]

I would feed a three position switch (on/off/auto). the on position would feed the fan directly to override/bypass the sensor/timer. Off would be obvious. The auto would feed the timer/sensor which would then feed the fan.

 

[Brew12]

I would feed a three position switch (on/off/auto). the on position would feed the fan directly to override/bypass the sensor/timer. Off would be obvious. The auto would feed the timer/sensor which would then feed the fan.

Ah, I'm with you. That would work. I thought you were referring to a 3-way switch.

 

[Awesome Dennis]

Nah, you could use a 3-way if you don't need the manual off

 

[BZOFIQ]

I would feed a three position switch (on/off/auto). the on position would feed the fan directly to override/bypass the sensor/timer. Off would be obvious. The auto would feed the timer/sensor which would then feed the fan.

That wouldn't work, please refer to my original post and the 2 switches I wanted to use. One is a timer type switch and the other is a sensor. If the 3 position switch was combined with the 2 switches in parallel then it would certainly work but then we go back to the 3-switch solution and it no longer matters if the 3 rd switch is a 3-position or regular switch.

 

[Awesome Dennis]

Ok so you want to control the fan from either timer or the sensor? Are the switches together or different rooms? How many conductors are between the boxes or can you run whatever you need?

 

[BZOFIQ]

They are together next to each other. This is new wiring so anything is possible.

Believe all confirmed in post #888...but if you have other ideas, please advise.

 

[Reefiness]

I just did a DIY write up about lengthening the cables in an APEX led moonlight string. I ended up adding a barrel connector between the lights as well that I was using for each individual system. I noticed if the barrel connector is disconnected then none of the LEDS work, not just the ones distal to the barrel connector which had been disconnected. I was wondering if there was a way to remedy that, not that I need it for my situation, but in case someone else does.

The thread I made is here... https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/lengthening-distance-between-apex-moonlights.382208/

If there is a solution I would appreciate someone putting a post in the thread explaining it. Thanks.

 

[nmo0ory]

i want to ask can i put all the cables and connector inside the sump ? or the humidity will be problem ?

 

[Brew12]

i want to ask can i put all the cables and connector inside the sump ? or the humidity will be problem ?

If you want to make sure it will be ok, instead of taping up the leads after you connect them you can use shrink tubes. Slide the tube on before you solder the wire together. The slide the tube over the connection and heat it with a hair dryer until it form fits tightly.

Something like this.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Raychem-5-Count-4-8-Millimeters-Mm-0-187-in-Heat-Shrink-Tubing/999978142

 

[Victoria M]

After reconnecting the wires in my blue line pump and cleaning it all up...it won't run. There is a hum in the body, so electricity is getting to it. I took the impellar apart again, and it spins freely. Any suggestion? The only concern I have is that husband plugged in it several times real quick to see if it was wired right.

 

[Victoria M]

After reconnecting the wires in my blue line pump and cleaning it all up...it won't run. There is a hum in the body, so electricity is getting to it. I took the impellar apart again, and it spins freely. Any suggestion? The only concern I have is that husband plugged in it several times real quick to see if it was wired right.

Husband redid the connectors with new electrical tape and it works! so happy