3D Printing thread

Vivid Creative Aquatics · Jul 1, 2019

Palluk33 said:
Is anyone using Creality Ender 3 Pro ?

We run a handful of them, an they work pretty good. The Glass bed that will comes with one you got with is carbon/silicone coating is nice and works extremely well with PLA, and pretty good with PETG. The only thing I dont like is you have to let it cool down pretty much all the way for the part to release

Like others have said, upgrade the hotend (or at leas the boden tube) for reliability for print temps above 235(ish). We'll run the stock hotend for weeks at between 230-236 before it starts to clog up due to the boden tube degrading. At that point we replace the hotend with an all-metal hotend such as the microswiss.

it's a great printer and hard to beat for the price

dantimdad · Jul 1, 2019

BTW, don't be fooled into auto bed leveling for the enders It just isn't worth the hassle.

After a while, you can just watch the skirt at the beginning of a print and level on the fly.

I also use a dial indicator on a 3 printed mount once a month to check the beds for warpage and to really level the beds accurately. It's really a simple process.

dantimdad · Jul 1, 2019

BTW, don't be fooled into auto bed leveling for the enders It just isn't worth the hassle.

After a while, you can just watch the skirt at the beginning of a print and level on the fly.

I also use a dial indicator on a 3 printed mount once a month to check the beds for warpage and to really level the beds accurately. It's really a simple process.

Palluk33 · Jul 1, 2019

Vivid Creative Aquatics said:
We run a handful of them, an they work pretty good. The Glass bed that will comes with one you got with is carbon/silicone coating is nice and works extremely well with PLA, and pretty good with PETG. The only thing I dont like is you have to let it cool down pretty much all the way for the part to release

Like others have said, upgrade the hotend (or at leas the boden tube) for reliability for print temps above 235(ish). We'll run the stock hotend for weeks at between 230-236 before it starts to clog up due to the boden tube degrading. At that point we replace the hotend with an all-metal hotend such as the microswiss.

it's a great printer and hard to beat for the price

Thx, what hotend should buy I just googled it and is lots of different options.

dantimdad · Jul 1, 2019

Until you get used to tuning and printing, I would stay away from an upgrade like that. Honestly, if you are not in a production mode of using these printers, I wouldn't bother. I run all three printers at least 6 hours a day a piece all with the standard hotend. I run HQA PLA+ and PETG, 3d solutech PLA and fulament PLA+ and even prinrui flexible through mine with no hotend clogs.

ludnix · Jul 1, 2019

dantimdad said:
I also use a dial indicator on a 3 printed mount once a month to check the beds for warpage and to really level the beds accurately. It's really a simple process.

Such a good solution!

TheHarold · Jul 1, 2019

Here is my quick-and-dirty Maxspect Advanced Controller holder. Its nothing fancy, fitment is "okay", but gets the job done.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3724354/files

Vivid Creative Aquatics · Jul 1, 2019

dantimdad said:
Until you get used to tuning and printing, I would stay away from an upgrade like that. Honestly, if you are not in a production mode of using these printers, I wouldn't bother. I run all three printers at least 6 hours a day a piece all with the standard hotend. I run HQA PLA+ and PETG, 3d solutech PLA and fulament PLA+ and even prinrui flexible through mine with no hotend clogs.

I agree with this - the stock hotend is more than capable and if you not going to print for days on end at higher temps it will do just fine. The only real issue we have had with it is the stock boden tube starts to degrade after printing at +/-235 for long stretches - we're talking weeks, of near non-stop printing. I had one that melted enough to leave some of the tube inside the nozzle - it was ***** getting that out of there. But that's an extreme example.

Sisterlimonpot · Jul 4, 2019

ludnix said:
I forgot I need to renew my premium membership here to edit posts so I'm making a new post for the STL on my dosing line holder.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3570832

Thank you I love it! I will use this for my rimless tank!

Haha, I made a variation of this as well. For my rimless sump...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3728597

ludnix · Jul 4, 2019

Sisterlimonpot said:
Haha, I made a variation of this as well. For my rimless sump...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3728597

I love it! Great design to have it's body provide the tension with a spring like shape!

Reef-junky · Jul 4, 2019

Anyone want to print something like this for me?

ludnix · Jul 4, 2019

Do you need it to be customized? It would be easy to model but hard to print because of it's large size. I think they are asking a fair price at $120 for that to be made out of acrylic.

Reef-junky · Jul 4, 2019

ludnix said:
Do you need it to be customized? It would be easy to model but hard to print because of it's large size. I think they are asking a fair price at $120 for that to be made out of acrylic.

Yeah need something like that but I need it to hang on my tall sump. Also don’t care about the gate thing and I would want the part where the pipes are to just be open. Trying to come up with a holder like that where it overflows into the sock.

JDowns · Jul 5, 2019

I recently started printing more with TPU/TPC. A few of these types from manufacturers are not the best choice for around the aquarium due to lack of UV protection and will break down in salt water. But for parts around the aquarium would be a great material choice. You can adjust the rigidity of your part with the infill percentage and type. TPU/TPC handles overhangs beautifully, and at small layer heights, the finish just cannot be topped. While not the cheapest filament, DSM Arnitel would be a great choice around the aquarium. Its food safe, UV resistant, and shouldn't break down in salt water.

https://www.dsm.com/markets/engineering-plastics/en/products/arnitel/product-info/properties.html

Vivid Creative Aquatics · Jul 5, 2019

JDowns said:
I recently started printing more with TPU/TPC. A few of these types from manufacturers are not the best choice for around the aquarium due to lack of UV protection and will break down in salt water. But for parts around the aquarium would be a great material choice. You can adjust the rigidity of your part with the infill percentage and type. TPU/TPC handles overhangs beautifully, and at small layer heights, the finish just cannot be topped. While not the cheapest filament, DSM Arnitel would be a great choice around the aquarium. Its food safe, UV resistant, and shouldn't break down in salt water.

https://www.dsm.com/markets/engineering-plastics/en/products/arnitel/product-info/properties.html

interesting - have you printed any parts with this particular plastic that you have had in or near the aquarium water?

ludnix · Jul 5, 2019

I like the specs of their 2060-HT filament but they only have the 1045 on amazon and it's $92/kilo.

TheHarold · Jul 5, 2019

I’m exited to get the new PMUP V2 today, so I can get a new stand designed :). Desperately need some funds to continue with my experimental coral setup, and the tank arrives tomorrow!

Lots of 3d printed parts in this setup

ludnix · Jul 5, 2019

Is that a frag carousel?

JDowns · Jul 5, 2019

ludnix said:
I like the specs of their 2060-HT filament but they only have the 1045 on amazon and it's $92/kilo.

Yes its not cheap. Matterhackers sells the 2060, although it's out of stock currently, and at $80 for 500g, I'd recommend test prints for fitment with a cheaper TPU.