72x30x18 DIY build thread

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Nate Chalk

Nate Chalk

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Nate
Thanks for sharing. I don’t mind paying more for oversea’s shipment as long as I get it. Have you received yours yet?. Are you aware if I need to order other accessories beyond the Oxydator W model?
I did get a DHL ship notification this morning :O
 

Karliefish

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I use a Oxydator A with 3 catalyst and 12% to my 80 Gallon tank. However - this tank have been run with an oxidator for 6 years and I run it rather hard. Normal may be 12 % and 1 or 2 catalyst. In this case - I need to replace the solution every 10 - 15 day. With 3 catalyst and 12 % - every 5-8 day. In your case - 3 Oxydator A or one oxydator W would probably do the work

Sincerely Lasse
Lasse
Would you mind explaining the purpose of the catalyst and how do you install them. I have gone online with no success to get this answer. Thank you.
 
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Nate Chalk

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Alk: 8.5
Mag::1375
CA: 480
N03: 9.1
P04: .09
Years: 1.5

what was your solution to get clean?
keeping tank with elevated nutrients, dosing bacteria, getting mud/live rock/ manual removal, uv, peroxide dosing, black outs

Read back a few pages. I list all my cures
 

Lasse

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Here is the princips for an Oxidator A - its the same for Oxydator W

Oxydator A

1673258328270.png


Oxydator W

1673260122351.png





The plastic container is filled with H2O2. Catalyst is placed inside and the orange cap is tighted. The container is placed upside down in the clay cannister. The clay cover is placed above the plastic container in the clay canister. The whole package placed in the sump or aquarium

1673258280222.png


The catalyst slowly breakdown the H2O2 in the container into H2O and O atoms -> the O atoms form oxygen gas (O2) and slowly press out pure H2O2 (liquid) into the space between the plastic container and the clay cannister into the water (sump or aquarium water) The clay canister serve as a second catalyst and further break down some H2O2 into water and oxygen - but some pure H2O2 will enter the aquarium water. This is an genius dosing equipment and the dose per time unit is depended on the strength of the H2O2 solution and how many catalyst you use. In a large aquarium like yours - Which strength of H2O2 you should use - you need to test this out. If you dilute a strong solution - be careful to use RODI water of high purity because chlorine and amino chlorines will act as a catalyst too. In an unknown aquarium system I would start with a low concentration and few catalyst - maybe in you case 6 % and 2 catalyst. If it works well - rise the concentration - but I have not rise it over 12 %. When you have 12 % concentration - and still work well - use more catalyst. If you use it as a parasite/pathogen remedy you may rise the daily dose in the way that you get more not catalyzed H2O2 into the water. The water will slowly catalyze the H2O2 in the water and create free oxygen radical which are you death patrol against pathogens. The W is higher than the A. hence have a more effective second catalyze process than the A model. This means that you have to test your setup and see what´s most effective. The yellow substances in the water will be affected by the peroxide dosing, hence if you get a more clear water - you know you minimum dose (concentration plus number of catalyst)

Hope this helps you

Sincerely Lasse
 

Karliefish

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Here is the princips for an Oxidator A - its the same for Oxydator W

Oxydator A

1673258328270.png


Oxydator W

1673260122351.png





The plastic container is filled with H2O2. Catalyst is placed inside and the orange cap is tighted. The container is placed upside down in the clay cannister. The clay cover is placed above the plastic container in the clay canister. The whole package placed in the sump or aquarium

1673258280222.png


The catalyst slowly breakdown the H2O2 in the container into H2O and O atoms -> the O atoms form oxygen gas (O2) and slowly press out pure H2O2 (liquid) into the space between the plastic container and the clay cannister into the water (sump or aquarium water) The clay canister serve as a second catalyst and further break down some H2O2 into water and oxygen - but some pure H2O2 will enter the aquarium water. This is an genius dosing equipment and the dose per time unit is depended on the strength of the H2O2 solution and how many catalyst you use. In a large aquarium like yours - Which strength of H2O2 you should use - you need to test this out. If you dilute a strong solution - be careful to use RODI water of high purity because chlorine and amino chlorines will act as a catalyst too. In an unknown aquarium system I would start with a low concentration and few catalyst - maybe in you case 6 % and 2 catalyst. If it works well - rise the concentration - but I have not rise it over 12 %. When you have 12 % concentration - and still work well - use more catalyst. If you use it as a parasite/pathogen remedy you may rise the daily dose in the way that you get more not catalyzed H2O2 into the water. The water will slowly catalyze the H2O2 in the water and create free oxygen radical which are you death patrol against pathogens. The W is higher than the A. hence have a more effective second catalyze process than the A model. This means that you have to test your setup and see what´s most effective. The yellow substances in the water will be affected by the peroxide dosing, hence if you get a more clear water - you know you minimum dose (concentration plus number of catalyst)

Hope this helps you

Sincerely Lasse
This is the best concise write-up I’ve read. Thank you for writing it up!
 

Karliefish

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Try the shrimp tank or Aquarium Oxygenator Neither have it in the stock list but maybe can help you with information or fix it for you. I live in Sweden. There is one Canadian site too - but I can+t find it for the moment

Sincerely Lasse
I got it out Germany - pay a small kings ransom for the shipping
 
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Nate Chalk

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1673536313554.png


Back to the basics of daily testing until things start holding where we want.

Oxydator is on its way through customs! Good thing they didnt find that Oregano in there....

1673536440859.png



Calcium Nitrate Arrives today @StatelineReefer recommended dosing instead of the brightwell due to the low nutrient situation I am in , and I think Cable management testers from @Projects with Sam! Lots to do this weekend reefing wise.
 
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Nate Chalk

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"One thing that seems to help things progress is to stop scraping down the algae off your glass....once the dino's start giving up space that is. Mechanical removal is a legit short-term strategy and might help give competitors a leg up too."

I think me scraping did bump the dinos up again.

Oddly.

I thought algae was sucking nutrients. But I think the tank needed it. Against the beast.
 

Creating a strong bulwark: Did you consider floor support for your reef tank?

  • I put a major focus on floor support.

    Votes: 34 43.0%
  • I put minimal focus on floor support.

    Votes: 19 24.1%
  • I put no focus on floor support.

    Votes: 24 30.4%
  • Other.

    Votes: 2 2.5%
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