Dr. Reef
www.drreefsquarantinedfish.com
what bottle bacteria was used? If it wasnt Fritz trubostart 900 then add a pinch or 2 of fish food to the tank and redose bacteria. Let it cycle for few days i bet the bacteria will oxidize.
8.0 Ammonia for almost two months
- Thread starter Vic73
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He used biospira I believe, which raises stakes for the final testing bc if I’m not mistaken they weren’t as tough as fritz.
I believe one thousand percent that tank has measurable nitrifers based on pics from page two. That much varied surface area, sand, plus green water and known repeat feeding...it’s the most cycled tank I’ve seen all week yep agreed if he re spikes up ammonia to the next increment, in 24 hours it should be back to current levels
I think to sterilize the tank we would have to dump in and sustain, contact time, bunches of raw ammonia. Toilet cleaner level sustained would do it...cause the tank to not be able to pass a new oxidation test.
I believe one thousand percent that tank has measurable nitrifers based on pics from page two. That much varied surface area, sand, plus green water and known repeat feeding...it’s the most cycled tank I’ve seen all week yep agreed if he re spikes up ammonia to the next increment, in 24 hours it should be back to current levels
I think to sterilize the tank we would have to dump in and sustain, contact time, bunches of raw ammonia. Toilet cleaner level sustained would do it...cause the tank to not be able to pass a new oxidation test.
Stigigemla
Well-Known Member
I dont know if You (the OP) are still reading the thread but away from the theories I have 4 practical advices for You.
1. Change practically all the water to salt mixed from RO/DI.
2. Buy another Ammonia test made for saltwater like Salifert or Red Sea.
3. Continue to add bacteria until You have seen a measureable nitrite level and it has began to sink.
4. Take out all the air lines from the tank. They will create a lot of salt deposites around the tank and some metal things in the room will begin to rust. Install a protein skimmer. They are very good at keeping a tank clean. Skimmerless tanks are only for experts.
Now at the start I would also recommend a good thermometer and a salinity meter (Not swing arm)
By the way: I just love all the stuff (except the shiff) You have in Your sand.
1. Change practically all the water to salt mixed from RO/DI.
2. Buy another Ammonia test made for saltwater like Salifert or Red Sea.
3. Continue to add bacteria until You have seen a measureable nitrite level and it has began to sink.
4. Take out all the air lines from the tank. They will create a lot of salt deposites around the tank and some metal things in the room will begin to rust. Install a protein skimmer. They are very good at keeping a tank clean. Skimmerless tanks are only for experts.
Now at the start I would also recommend a good thermometer and a salinity meter (Not swing arm)
By the way: I just love all the stuff (except the shiff) You have in Your sand.
The Op is fully gone, he was loved out of town by science debate among peers. Still, any of these tests can be reran in other setups just the same so that the true nature of tap can be studied fully, guess we’ll never get to know here, maybe next round.
We already know 8ppm verified level outcomes based on Dr Reefs linked work, but for this tank in particular there was much potential for learning / hate to miss.
We all lost out on good science though in not getting the finality, hardly any agreement was reached. On the most entry level topic in reefing, when to start, we all disagreed pretty much which should be fascinating to a select few. In spite of all of today’s data, ability to grow sps corals, how does a group of able-reefers still disagree totally on when the basis is ready for an able start...there is work to be done
Either in discovering something new or in re communicating something already established
Tbd. In 2019 few agree on how to cycle if the exact common pattern is deviated from
We already know 8ppm verified level outcomes based on Dr Reefs linked work, but for this tank in particular there was much potential for learning / hate to miss.
We all lost out on good science though in not getting the finality, hardly any agreement was reached. On the most entry level topic in reefing, when to start, we all disagreed pretty much which should be fascinating to a select few. In spite of all of today’s data, ability to grow sps corals, how does a group of able-reefers still disagree totally on when the basis is ready for an able start...there is work to be done
Either in discovering something new or in re communicating something already established
Tbd. In 2019 few agree on how to cycle if the exact common pattern is deviated from
Gobi-Wan
Active Member
Wow I cant believe I just read this whole thread. The most depressing thing to me is that no matter my efforts I can only ever seem to attract 3 or 4 responses when I have a question. This OP dumped a few posts without any research effort, then yeeted off into the universe leaving behind the reef science debate of the century. [emoji23]
Well it was the sand I started with in my tank. I combined all kinds of sands from around the world but guess that causes some kind of reaction as the bottom inch was just black dead smelling ....something.
Bought 40 lbs of live sand, another live rock , total water replacement with RODI type. Clear for a few days but ammonia between 1.0 and 4 until a bacteria blooming for the past three days. Cleaned canister bio with tank water and replaced half foams with new pieces as scheduled. The Ammonia has dropped to .25 but my PH was at 7.6. Add PH UP....should I let the bloom run it’s course or do water changes?
Bought 40 lbs of live sand, another live rock , total water replacement with RODI type. Clear for a few days but ammonia between 1.0 and 4 until a bacteria blooming for the past three days. Cleaned canister bio with tank water and replaced half foams with new pieces as scheduled. The Ammonia has dropped to .25 but my PH was at 7.6. Add PH UP....should I let the bloom run it’s course or do water changes?
I would let it run its course until ammonia zeros out and you get a spike in nitrates. Then do a water change with RODI made saltwater to get the nitrates down to manageable levels.
Keep in mind, with the canister filter, be diligent about weekly cleaning as they are notorious for building and storing nitrates if not cleaned on a regular basis.
Keep in mind, with the canister filter, be diligent about weekly cleaning as they are notorious for building and storing nitrates if not cleaned on a regular basis.
That’s kinda why you don’t see many using canister filters in the reef aquarium hobby. They tend to trap detritus, and if not cleaned properly, they become what is referred to as “nitrate factories”. That’s why you see so many sumps in the hobby. If a sump is out of the question, something like an Aquaclear HOB power filter may be a better choice due to ease of access and cleaning.
As far as the percent of water change goes, that may depend on what your nitrate number is. As an example, if after the ammonia zeros out and you're getting a nitrate reading of 20ppm, We know that a 50% water change will halve that number to 10ppm, provided you’re doing a water change with pure RODI made saltwater.
Right now it says 0.0 for nitrate but back to now 8.0 ammonia....I can't believe this!
I had a saltwater aquarium for years before the Navy with less training and equipment, why can't I get this right?
ScottR
Surfing....
I would scrap this and start all over. Properly. Toss out all the water. Sand. Clean the rock. Start from scratch with fresh RODI, ammonia, bacteria starter. Obviously this has dragged on forever with no end in sight.
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