8.0 Ammonia for almost two months

[Water Dog]

I would personally scrap the canister unless your willing to break it down for a cleaning every week. I’d also look into getting an InTank media basket for your Aquacleae... also if possible, I’d get the 110 over the 70 for extra capacity, but if you can’t, I think the InTank basket is a worthwhile investment.

https://intankaquatics.com/aquaclear-70-media-basket/



* Understand that everyone has a different way of doing things. If I were running a sumpless tank, this is what I would do.

 

[MnFish1]

I would personally scrap the canister unless your willing to break it down for a cleaning every week. I’d also look into getting an InTank media basket for your Aquacleae... also if possible, I’d get the 110 over the 70 for extra capacity, but if you can’t, I think the InTank basket is a worthwhile investment.

https://intankaquatics.com/aquaclear-70-media-basket/



* Understand that everyone has a different way of doing things. If I were running a sumpless tank, this is what I would do.

Except this video is contradictory - you can see that the water spray on the far left of the filter is 'bypassing' all of the filter media... I agree why Aquaclear has lots of bypass - this by far does not solve that problem imho

 

[Water Dog]

You’re right, it doesn’t address the underlying issue at hand. However the Aquaclear IMO has a clear advantages over a canister filter in terms of ease of maintenance when running a sumpless system.

 

[MnFish1]

You’re right, it doesn’t address the underlying issue at hand. However the Aquaclear IMO has a clear advantages over a canister filter in terms of ease of maintenance when running a sumpless system.

I like the filter myself (the aquaclear) just saying this insert might not be perfect

 

[Marco S]

You’re right, it doesn’t address the underlying issue at hand. However the Aquaclear IMO has a clear advantages over a canister filter in terms of ease of maintenance when running a sumpless system.

While I will not pretend to understand what's going on with the high ammonia situation, I 100% agree that the Aquaclear HOB is far better than any canister filter. I stopped using canister filters many years ago after having issues with bacteria blooms and high Nitrates and doing some research and switched to Fluval C4's and eventually Fluval Aquaclear HOB filters, (usually way over sized for my tanks) and have not had any issues since. Granted this was with freshwater tanks, but I have been using Aquaclear HOB filters for all my saltwater QT tanks for the last few months now and I would vouch for them 100%.

The add in media basket does look cool, but I did notice the water coming out of the intake side also. I would just stick with the default setup and get either an over sized model or two smaller ones.

@Vic73 I hope you figure out what's going on soon and everything works out for you. This has to suck, but keep trying because it will be sooooo worth it once you get everything worked out.

 

[Vic73]

I would personally scrap the canister unless your willing to break it down for a cleaning every week. I’d also look into getting an InTank media basket for your Aquacleae... also if possible, I’d get the 110 over the 70 for extra capacity, but if you can’t, I think the InTank basket is a worthwhile investment.

https://intankaquatics.com/aquaclear-70-media-basket/



* Understand that everyone has a different way of doing things. If I were running a sumpless tank, this is what I would do.

Wow thanks again for the advice and patience...we I needed. This looks way easier then the canister and thought that was easier.

 

[Water Dog]

Wow thanks again for the advice and patience...we I needed. This looks way easier then the canister and thought that was easier.

Again, even with the Aquaclear, you will still have to perform routine maintenance, like replace the floss & rinse out the sponges weekly and change carbon (if used) every couple of weeks. It’s just that it’s a lot easier to do for the Aquaclear than it is for the canister.

Any change or improvement in your ammonia test results?

 

[MnFish1]

Wow thanks again for the advice and patience...we I needed. This looks way easier then the canister and thought that was easier.

I really like this filter also - I would not buy that insert. if you look at the video - all of the water that is flowing out at the far left (facing the picture) is not being filtered at all - in fact thats a sign that whatever media is in the filter needs to be changed. The problem I see is that that is happening with completely clean media (if you notice - the water level is also right at the very top of the filter).

 

[Vic73]

Again, even with the Aquaclear, you will still have to perform routine maintenance, like replace the floss & rinse out the sponges weekly and change carbon (if used) every couple of weeks. It’s just that it’s a lot easier to do for the Aquaclear than it is for the canister.

Any change or improvement in your ammonia test results?

Biggest change is after two blooms water is crystal clear. I have both the AquaClear and Fluva Canister going. I changed to test strips but don’t see ammonia reading on there, which sadly is still 8.0. I do have a slight reading of nitrites so thought that was a good sign but again ammonia still disgustingly high. So back to yet more water changes or let it go?

I gutted the tank 5/28 putting all new live sand, new live rock, have a power head and two filters now on this 55 gallon tank for three days now. So again, water change or let it sit?

 

[Vic73]

Biggest change is after two blooms water is crystal clear. I have both the AquaClear and Fluva Canister going. I changed to test strips but don’t see ammonia reading on there, which sadly is still 8.0. I do have a slight reading of nitrites so thought that was a good sign but again ammonia still disgustingly high. So back to yet more water changes or let it go?

I gutted the tank 5/28 putting all new live sand, new live rock, have a power head and two filters now on this 55 gallon tank for three days now. So again, water change or let it sit?

 

[Vic73]

What do you think of these? Can’t believe it if true as ammonia was above 8.0 this morning. Afraid to check it.

 

[Water Dog]

With your slight reading of nitrites, is there any reading of nitrates yet? As far as the Seachem ammonia alert badge goes, many use them for quarantine set ups so I’d consider them a reliable tool.

So you replaced all of your “around the world sand” with live sand and added some additional live rock to the original live rock and did a 100% water change with RODI made saltwater, right? May I ask where you purchased your live rock and what type of live sand you bought? Was the live sand the prebagged Caribsea live sand type stuff? Was the live rock sourced from the LFS or someone else’s old tank? Was the new water the premixed boxed saltwater from the LFS or did you make the RODI yourself and then add salt mix to make your water? Sorry for a rehash of all these questions but trying seek clarity to eliminate variables here.

 

[MnFish1]

What was in your “live rock”. I thought earlier you said you added back all of your old rock plus some new pieces

 

[Vic73]

No need to apologize as this has been dragging on and you’re being so helpful.

I bought 40lbs Caribbean live sand, have six live rock and 100% RODI water from Aquatic Werehouse here in San Diego. Did a 15 gallon changed Petco premixed saltwater before these blooms.

Slight level of both nitrite and nitrates using test strips. PH still only maybe 7.6-7.8.

With your slight reading of nitrites, is there any reading of nitrates yet? As far as the Seachem ammonia alert badge goes, many use them for quarantine set ups so I’d consider them a reliable tool.

So you replaced all of your “around the world sand” with live sand and added some additional live rock to the original live rock and did a 100% water change with RODI made saltwater, right? May I ask where you purchased your live rock and what type of live sand you bought? Was the live sand the prebagged Caribsea live sand type stuff? Was the live rock sourced from the LFS or someone else’s old tank? Was the new water the premixed boxed saltwater from the LFS or did you make the RODI yourself and then add salt mix to make your water? Sorry for a rehash of all these questions but trying seek clarity to eliminate variables here.

 

[Vic73]

What was in your “live rock”. I thought earlier you said you added back all of your old rock plus some new pieces

Added my five live rock from before and bought one more live rock once I did the water and tank change of sand.

 

[Water Dog]

Is it me or does it look like your ammonia alert badge is reading ALERT - 0.2 ppm of ammonia? The color in your picture above certainly doesn’t look like it’s reading TOXIC > 0.5 ppm...

 

[MnFish1]

So if the ammonia is still high - its probably because something is on the 'old live rock' thats decomposing, - or your test kit is bad - or your SO is dropping ammonia in your tank or your doing something wrong with the test. - I dont know the ammonia badge at all - so I cant say whether the levels agree.

When you do the test - how do you rinse your vials before?

Can I be honest? it seems like you are telling things a little 'piecemeal' like one post you said you replaced water, sand and your live rock - and then you remembered.agreed that you kept your old live rock and put some new in - those things are important. ... No offense.

 

[SinkyShippy]

You need more rock. Rule is 1 pound of rock per gallon.

 

[asting]

You need more rock. Rule is 1 pound of rock per gallon.

That's not a rule, and certainly wouldn't cause this issue...

There is so much misinformation in this thread.

 

[Vic73]

Here are my latest readings in addition to my still 8.0 ammonia. As you can see slight traces of nitrites and nitrates so cycle seems to be in work but still in disbelief why the ammonia seems so high after all the work done since 5/28, two filters now, live rocks, RODI and prepacked saltwater and live sand. So wait for the cycle or water change up to 25%?