A Good RO/DI system?

[Tango Tangy]

Which brands are the best when it come to an RO/DI system?

 

[Reef_a_holiks]

Not sure if there is a best. They all pretty much do the same , just some plastic enclosures holding filter cartridges and media. Now you can get high end filter cartridges and media and that is were the difference is noticed. I myself purchased a purewaterclub R.O system and have been owning it now for a little more than two years with zero issues. carbon blocks last me about a year, membrane about a year and a half and Di resin about every 4-6 months. For a fixture that cost just a little over $100 its been quit amazing. If your in a budget definitely look into purewaterclub.

 

[AZDesertRat]

You double posted but here is the answer from the first thread. There is a huge difference in quality on different systems, it is far more than just some housings and filters. You get what you pay for with RO/DI. Better filters last longer and end up costing you much less over time.

http://www.spectrapure.com/

http://www.buckeyehydro.com/

http://purelyh2o.com/

http://airwaterice.com/

You really can't go wrong with the $125 refurbished system from Spectrapure.

 

[Tango Tangy]

Thanks guys! I've heard Bulk Reef Supply makes a great system. Any experience with Bulk Reef Supply systems?

 

[AZDesertRat]

Average at best, you can do better for less money. Love their chemicals but their RO is ho hum. They need to stick with what they do best and leave RO/DI to the experts with decades or more of experience in the industry.

 

[zoomonster]

I'm of the mind that if it has the features you want and the price is right there's very little difference in brands other than price. I had one marketed by Kent a long time ago and now I have a BRS 5 stage 150gpd water saver unit (2 membranes). Personally not sure how you would really quantify any differences in them other than advertised flow and features. BRS does not make any of the parts (they just assemble) so what you get is probably the same you might find on many other units. They are not complex units and the primary difference is the membranes and filters included with it. So basically I would have to say the membranes are the only real distinguishable water producing feature. Think they are using all Dow filmtec membranes and mine has two 75 gpd, 99% rejection membranes to get to 150gpd.

One of the reasons I got a BRS this time is that it includes everything already assembled and its a complete package. TDS meter, back flush kit, pressure guage etc. They also include all the hookup hardware whether for saddle, sink or hose bib and plenty of hose. They stopped selling the exact model I have but upgraded it to 6 stage by adding a second DI cannister. Been using mine close to 2 years now.

Bottom line to me is if its producing 0 TDS water in the amount advertised it works.

 

[Tango Tangy]

Thanks Zoo and AZ!

 

[AZDesertRat]

One big difference is how long it maintains 0 TDS. Things line flush kits are feel good purchases, I have yet to see a documented study they do anything other than give you a warm fuzzy feeling and lighten your wallet. Same with the bogus water saver claim. Notice not one of the long time vendors who specialize in RO sell a system line that. Truth is when you have dual membranes it is even more important you keep the waste ratio up since you are sending concentrated brine from one membrane into the next. It's not that easy, if it were don't you think the vendors that have been researching and developing RO/DI for 25-30 years or more would have been doing this decades ago?
Research the differences between nominal, near absolute and absolute rated sediment filters and why some are better than others at protecting the billion of cavities or pores in the carbon block where chlorine is adsorbed. Research why something as simple as a 2% gain in membrane efficiency can double the life of your DI resin cutting your cost of operation significantly. Find out why a treated and tested RO membrane can do this for you versus a dry untreated and untested membrane, they are not all the same. Research why a single high quality low micron carbon block is all you need and why it is actually more efficient and lower cost than unneeded multiple carbons. While on carbon find all the articles in n why so called chloramine carbons are a waste of money on EPA approved drinking water and why carbon doesn't remove chloramines in the first place. Carbon removes the chlorine portion of chloramines and breaks the bond with the ammonia portion so it can be removed mostly by the RO and polished off by the DI which is much more important than carbon.

Again there are huge differences in systems and even bigger differences in vendors knowledge and experience. Research yourself and don't fall for many of the myths and questionable claims. Stick with a vendor that specializes in RO/DI, it will save you money and give you better water quality with fewer upgrades and replacements.

 

[WLDSHARK]

http://airwaterice.com/, if you visit their facebook page, they usually have 10 - 15% off/free shipping and customer service is top notch. one of the best if you ask me.
Good luck, an RO/DI is an essential part of a healthy reef.

 

[R_C]

AquaFX barracuda with 150 GPD with water saver and pump. Had this unit for a few years with no problems.

 

[R_C]

an RO/DI is an essential part of a healthy reef

+1

 

[aashley]

I have a Spectrapure 90gpd with an Aquatec booster pump. No problems so far. LOVE my booster pump!!! PSI went from 40 to 90. Spend a lot less time making water and since I have to do mine at the kitchen sink, my family is a lot happier :)

 

[mibwb]

AZDesertRat. what do you use for an RO/DI system?

 

[AZDesertRat]

Spectrapure MaxCap UHE-100 running at 95-100 psi on 560 TDS softened water. 99.4% rejection rate with RO only and DI life of about 1000 gallons per MaxCap cartridge and 3000 gallons per SilicaBuster cartridge. System is over 8 years old on the original membrane and I can honestly count the filter and DI replacements on both hands and feet, as in 4 sets of sediment and carbon block, 5 or 6 MaxCap DI's and 3 SilicaBuster DI's. Not bad for 8+ years with a 100G mixed reef with 30G sump and 16G nano that evaporate pretty heavily in the AZ dry heat.