I'm going through the same thing and want a digital.
The digital one at the store works great.
the refractometer I have is the heavier one, from BRS.
Jaime told me it's temp that effects the refractometers, they need to be room temp @77 degrees & the calibration solution also. I have been playing with that info and it is true. Based on the temp in the room, low 70's to upper 60's if I warm the refractometer the readings change dramatically.
Just gotta check and re-check!
TED, 2 YEARS with the wrong salinity!!
"TED, 2 YEARS with the wrong salinity!!" - Ya I know - but seriously - it is like when your looking for something for a long time and cannot find it and then someone else comes along as says- "here is it"= its right in front of your face the whole time. Maybe that explains why my fish never have any disease - I am basically treating them with hypo salinity the whole time!! LOL
* it also proves that RBTA's can and do thrive in a hypo-salinity environment.
* I just feel badly that I killed all those corals due to my incompetency.
You have to love this hobby - after posting a few days ago that everything is finally going well. I arrive home last night and my Hammerhead pump is making a high pitched whining sound. After reading a bit it sounds like it needs new bearings - blahh.. I had purchased a never used but new Skimz leopard L110 recently after looking up on the website that it has the same exact 1.5 inch input and outputs as my hammerhead. Figured better safe than sorry and it would be a great backup. SO, I am thinking- hey for once I am ready for this "emergency". So I grab the still in box new Skimz pump and take it out of the box and take a look at it and the input/output look too small - sure enough they are NOT 1.5 inch, but 1.25. So, the 100thousand dollar question. Should I re-plumb from this new pump to the display tank up a floor with new flexible 1.25 PVC ( $50 plus time and work) or just use a 1.5 -1.25 adapter by the pump and continue to use the 1.5 inch flexible PVC already in place? Opinions??
LOl well of course neither had a simple adapter -so had top buy 4 pieces/fitting to go from 1.25 to 1.5 - gotta love that crapola. I did hear back already from Reeflo with a few suggestions that it may not be bearings. Possible the "slinger" has slif too close to the engine and it just needs to be move back into position, or a snail or something has gotten into the wet side/impeller. SO will keep you updated- thanks for the suggestions.
I got my replacement /backup Scimz Leopard L110 pump up and running after changing my plumbing to accommodate it. It is blessedly silent compared to my hammerhead, but its pathetic at pushing water compared to the Hammerhead. Will be taking apart both damaged/disabled hammerheads in my garage this weekend. I did find this pump today:
Sunpole Magnus VSR-9000V DC Controllable Water Pump Sunpole was first brought into the US market by AquaMaxx, and proven that they belong in this world of DC pumps at an affordable price, and are now introducing their new V-Series 0-10V External Controllable DC pumps. With a long history of making h
Well, after doing quite a bit of research it seems that no real progress has been made in pumps regarding higher head pressure in the past 5 years. The under $1000 DC pumps cannot handle my 13 feet of head pressure without starving the 150 gallon display tank of fresh water and good flow from the basement sump. The best A/C options are the Reeflo ( Hammerhead) = $400-500 or a large Iwaki - but are pretty loud and I have gone thru two Hammerheads in 5 years = both maybe fixable/serviceable - but I am not real handy. So, the next option is the Red Dragon or Abyzz pumps - the wallet will be screaming for mercy.
So , I guess a poll question . I have gotten the "OK" from the family accountant ( yep - the wife) to spend up to $2k on a new pump. I am very surprized - but I think she knows I am pretty frugal usually on the reef stuff buying used if at all possible. So-