Acrylic Fabrication Q & A

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Turbo's Aquatics

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I’m planning a DIY project for my local club. I’d like to make really simple top down viewers so people can learn to weld acrylic. Finding the rounds for the bottom is easy but I’m having no luck with tubing. I’m looking for 6” od in 4” lengths. The best I have found is like $20 a foot. Is there a better source?
What type of tube are you looking for? Cast tube is really expensive, extruded tube is cheaper. I'm guessing you're looking at extruded tube if youre looking at $20/foot. That's actually very cheap considering this http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/extruded-plexiglass-acrylic-tubing where the cheapest 6" OD tube is $176 for 6 feet, before shipping.
 

TheEngineer

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What type of tube are you looking for? Cast tube is really expensive, extruded tube is cheaper. I'm guessing you're looking at extruded tube if youre looking at $20/foot. That's actually very cheap considering this http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/extruded-plexiglass-acrylic-tubing where the cheapest 6" OD tube is $176 for 6 feet, before shipping.
I found a bunch of 4” on eBay. I may just do that. Can I use a miter saw to cut them down? I’m assuming I need a fine tooth blade.
 
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Took on a bit of a different project, a buddy of mine owns a company related to chemical supplies and testing, and one of the nuclear plants he works with needed a couple environmental test boxes. Basically they fill these with zebra mussels, pump water through them, and test the survival rates. It's been at least a year (probably 3) since I built an actual tank or something like it...every once in a while it's good to hone the skills, or even just make sure I got 'em.

Rest assured...still got game

Here's the rendering

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Got the parts Friday and just finished assembly, here's the step by step

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After a few more of those steps, walls done. I flush trimmed and rounded the vertical edges, then rounded all the rest of the parts.

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First though, I scraped off the good left from lining up the parts after setting the joints

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before

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after

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Been a while since I broke out this bad boy - 1/2" diameter 2" shank flush cutter (Amana)

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Top on, bottom going on

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The other box

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Squishy

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melev

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I was going to say "that looks heavy" and then I scrolled down to see the picture with all the weights.... lol
 

litenyaup

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While the acrylic work looks awesome, I have to say I noticed the the old cassette tape mini boom box radio lol. Nice work
 
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Yeah I'm old school, it's a lot easier to flip a switch or dial the volume vs a bluetooth speaker/phone/iHeartradio/etc, plus I only listen to AM talk radio while I'm slaving away, nothing keeps the mind awake late at night like a little Coast-to-Coast AM
 

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Yeah I'm old school, it's a lot easier to flip a switch or dial the volume vs a bluetooth speaker/phone/iHeartradio/etc, plus I only listen to AM talk radio while I'm slaving away, nothing keeps the mind awake late at night like a little Coast-to-Coast AM

Those guys are crazy. LOL They talk about some next level conspiracy stuff....
 

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The bigger question is which bit's do you use and recommend? Basically, I plan on doing a small acrylic project and am just looking for good general list of bits and blades to get you going.
How are you cutting the acrylic? Table saw? If so, you probably just need a flush trim bit. I use a CNC so I use an 1/8" single flute (o-flute) bit.
 

thinwall

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Hello everybody, I have been reading and haven't been able read every bit of this thread. I finally have the guts to try and build a sump. This may have been covered at some point but this thread is super long. I have cut and routed and now I'm seeing what looks like voids in the acrylic. I'm not sure if I should worry about it or not. TIA
4dd2f2cfaafb8bfc14d0d64923eb09fb.jpg
 

Scrubber_steve

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Hello everybody, I have been reading and haven't been able read every bit of this thread. I finally have the guts to try and build a sump. This may have been covered at some point but this thread is super long. I have cut and routed and now I'm seeing what looks like voids in the acrylic. I'm not sure if I should worry about it or not. TIA

I have found that a large diameter router bit (1") gives a far smoother edge than a smaller diameter router bit. Use high speed if router is adjustable.
In any case, if you are using a thick consistency cement (rather than a cement that is the consistency of water) that edge would be fine.
 

thinwall

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The router bit I'm using is a Bosch 3/4-1/2 shank in craftsman variable speed router. I'm not to concerned with the chatter. What concerns me is the pitting/pin holes. I was planning on using WO4.
 
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