All Euphyllia looking bad

shadow_k

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I agree with vette you need at least 10 hours I have my lights on from 12pm-11pm
12-1 blue ramp up
1-2 white ramp up
2-9 full intensity
9-10 white ramp down
10-11 blue ramp down
 
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wiggitywade

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I agree with vette you need at least 10 hours I have my lights on from 12pm-11pm
12-1 blue ramp up
1-2 white ramp up
2-9 full intensity
9-10 white ramp down
10-11 blue ramp down
Not to hit you with the same post but appreciate all the input. just posted this to vette as well.

I had to double check my schedule. 930-11 sunrise. 11-5 full(slight variation through the day). 5-7 sunset except UV/Violet/Blue go down from 5-830. For the Mag I was considering bringing down the dosing just a touch to get ALK closer to 9 as well.
 

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I had to double check my schedule. 930-11 sunrise. 11-5 full(slight variation through the day). 5-7 sunset except UV/Violet/Blue go down from 5-830. For the Mag I was considering bringing down the dosing just a touch to get ALK closer to 9 as well
Also what is your intensity? A lot of people tend to run there LEDs too high and end up bleaching coral ? I have my AI prime mounted 10” and all my channels are set too 75 and white 30 I get 30-50 on sand bed and rock work is between 80-150 my tank is gonna be LPS/softie dominated
 
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wiggitywade

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Also what is your intensity? A lot of people tend to run there LEDs too high and end up bleaching coral ? I have my AI prime mounted 10” and all my channels are set too 75 and white 30 I get 30-50 on sand bed and rock work is between 80-150 my tank is gonna be LPS/softie dominated
Ill add these to the OP as well. Idk if you run an AI and idk how other apps work but the % of each spectrum is real small under the time. The last pic has the watt output as well for reference. The light is mounted 12" off the water. Wish I had a PAR meter to have more specific info on light levels.

Screenshot_20211024-203144.png Screenshot_20211024-203133.png Screenshot_20211024-203117.png Screenshot_20211024-203123.png Screenshot_20211024-203058.png
 
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wiggitywade

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Also you’re counting on your salt brand to make up your parameters including trace elements. This is actually good because like mentioned earlier newer tanks can have parameter swings. But a more occasional water change for the first 3-6-9 months could only help with stability. Then shift your focus to other possible causes.
It seems like getting into the hobby water changes get preached as the solution to everything so I did them religiously. Doing less has advantages too! Especially early on when you can mess up a simple water change haha. I've definitely seen less nuisance algae since reducing water change frequency. With the ammonia showing up I know the tank is young enough that I cant let it ride too long, but still interesting to learn.
 

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I had problems with my corals not too long ago for quite a while. Once I figured out it had to be with my nitrates and phosphates both at 0 I started to dose nitrates and they all came back looking healthy within 1-2 weeks
 

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would that help with the euphyllia?
My tank is all LPS and soft corals. When I got my nitrate 5 to 10 and phosphate at .07 to .1 the corals really started looking better and the whole tank seemed to respond very positively. All my other water parameters were already ok though.
 

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3BE45215-6F81-42FD-8A52-4379C0B3F944.png

I do run AI mmm how high do you have it mounted ? Too close you can get hotspots too high the light spill out of the tank.

But besides the light. I believe the cyano is also causing problems.
5198680D-7999-4FCB-8186-6D1E5141C6B7.jpeg

This was my hammer it was great for 2 weeks

1635133815349.jpeg

Then cyano came then dinos and suffocated it and it died. The cyano was stealing whatever nutrients I had and since I didn’t have any it slowly died. I haven’t put a hammer in my tank for 6 months I just ordered a new one only because I have huge amounts of coralline growth now
 

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Be VERY careful dosing this you don’t wanna put too much in and knock your nutrients out of whack. To much you can end up getting cyano and zeroing out phosphates which leads to dinos
It's pretty simple to dose. It's small amounts and you just test every 24 hours to see where you're at. You can also just try feeding more but this may affect phosphate also. With nitro dose you are only focusing on nitrates. Going longer between water changes can help nitrates to but then you lose stability in other areas sometimes unless you have a mature tank.
 
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wiggitywade

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I had problems with my corals not too long ago for quite a while. Once I figured out it had to be with my nitrates and phosphates both at 0 I started to dose nitrates and they all came back looking healthy within 1-2 weeks
what did you use to dose? Got one rec for brightwell neonitrate
 

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3BE45215-6F81-42FD-8A52-4379C0B3F944.png

I do run AI mmm how high do you have it mounted ? Too close you can get hotspots too high the light spill out of the tank.

But besides the light. I believe the cyano is also causing problems.
5198680D-7999-4FCB-8186-6D1E5141C6B7.jpeg

This was my hammer it was great for 2 weeks

1635133815349.jpeg

Then cyano came then dinos and suffocated it and it died. The cyano was stealing whatever nutrients I had and since I didn’t have any it slowly died. I haven’t put a hammer in my tank for 6 months I just ordered a new one only because I have huge amounts of coralline growth now
With the bubbles on the end of that algae it could be dinos not cyano or a combo of both.
 
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wiggitywade

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It's pretty simple to dose. It's small amounts and you just test every 24 hours to see where you're at. You can also just try feeding more but this may affect phosphate also. With nitro dose you are only focusing on nitrates. Going longer between water changes can help nitrates to but then you lose stability in other areas sometimes unless you have a mature tank.
ill be sure to monitor everything super close while dosing! If its just a simple case of nitrates ill be stoked!
 
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wiggitywade

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3BE45215-6F81-42FD-8A52-4379C0B3F944.png

I do run AI mmm how high do you have it mounted ? Too close you can get hotspots too high the light spill out of the tank.

But besides the light. I believe the cyano is also causing problems.
5198680D-7999-4FCB-8186-6D1E5141C6B7.jpeg

This was my hammer it was great for 2 weeks

1635133815349.jpeg

Then cyano came then dinos and suffocated it and it died. The cyano was stealing whatever nutrients I had and since I didn’t have any it slowly died. I haven’t put a hammer in my tank for 6 months I just ordered a new one only because I have huge amounts of coralline growth now
I just cleared a nasty case of dinos and it grew on and suffocated another hammer similar to yours. Frustrating! The cyano I do have has been coming down slowly from good 'ol mother nature. I'm keeping a close eye on what I have left to make sure nothing like that happens. The little bit of cyano I have is on the back wall and one part of the aquascape.
 

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I just cleared a nasty case of dinos and it grew on and suffocated another hammer similar to yours. Frustrating! The cyano I do have has been coming down slowly from good 'ol mother nature. I'm keeping a close eye on what I have left to make sure nothing like that happens. The little bit of cyano I have is on the back wall and one part of the aquascape.
Then yeah honestly you may just need some nitrates in the system get those to around 5 or 10 then you should see some chubby corals lol
 
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wiggitywade

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Can we have a full tank shot if you have one?
This is from about a month ago pre dino takeover. Tank is the same now except the frag rack is out and that torch is the same on from the OP that looks so bad. That was where it was when it spit out the zooxanthellae
 

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