Anemone not happy???

Roobixqub

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Hi all!!
Hubby and I are fairly new to the salt world. We have 2 nems living in our 29 biocube. We have one (I think) white long nem and rainbow nem that is hosted by a maroon clown. I am stressing about my rainbow nem because I feel like it’s starving. I have tried feeding it like I do my white one and it won’t take the food OR my clown will pull it out of the nem. It’s moved a few times in the tank and sometimes it open and flowing and others it small and shriveled up. Pics below are taken today of both the white and rainbow and it’s what the look like right now. How/what can I do for my rainbow to help it not starve???

9F027EC0-D900-4508-843D-1C4C3FB69904.jpeg E13CDF24-FCA5-43B9-B915-5A131F9DD62F.jpeg
 
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Roobixqub

Roobixqub

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Just tested water on Friday evening, all levels are zero, salinity 1.025, and biocube LED light. It has a program setting with sunrise/sunset, white light about 8 hours. I haven’t been able to figure out how to adjust the white light setting to a smaller number. ‍
How new is the tank? What are you water parameters? What light are you usin
 

Clo

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Just tested water on Friday evening, all levels are zero, salinity 1.025, and biocube LED light. It has a program setting with sunrise/sunset, white light about 8 hours. I haven’t been able to figure out how to adjust the white light setting to a smaller number. ‍
phos nitrate?
 

Clo

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The nitrates are at zero, I don’t have the test kit for phosphates. Should I get one?? If so which do you recommend and what should the levels be??
I don't think it's accurate to have 0 nitrates in a cycled tank with at least 3 fish and 2 nems.
How old is your tank?
What test kit are you using? Do you have a skimmer?


Maybe @OrionN can help troubleshoot better
 
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Roobixqub

Roobixqub

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I don't think it's accurate to have 0 nitrates in a cycled tank with at least 3 fish and 2 nems.
How old is your tank?
What test kit are you using? Do you have a skimmer?


Maybe @OrionN can help troubleshoot better
29 biocube, no protein skimmer and API test kit. I can redo the test and see. Maybe I have my nitrites and nitrates mixed up. Currently has 2 nems, 7 fish and one brain. As I said before my white nem is doing fantastic and so is my brain. Just can’t figure out why my pink one can’t eat because my maroon clown pulls out the food every time.
 

vetteguy53081

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Tank may be too new to fully support rainbow opposed to the condylactus you have. Feed it mysis shrimp or similar. These are easy care specimens and a few things to know about them:
They’re fairly low maintenance and they can add a really neat look to your tank. Bubble Tip Anemone care requires you to have a strong understanding of these invertebrates if you want them to thrive. They’re not as easy to own as many people think. Thanks to the symbiotic relationship they form with certain fish, they are a joy to watch and care for. This species splits and propagates very easily in the right conditions, resulting in large captive populations.
The length of the tentacles can vary. The same goes for the size and shape of the bulb. With some specimens, the bulb is accompanied by a small tip. Interestingly enough, the tentacles can change based on the anemone’s environment. Below the splay of tentacles is the anemone’s foot. The foot is delicate. Yet, it has simple muscle fibers that help the creature move and anchor onto rocks.
Rose Bubble Tip Anemones are, by far, the most common type you’ll see on the market. They’re prolific propagators, which undoubtedly contributes to their popularity. This type is quite affordable and is a good option for first-time anemone owners. Rainbow bubble Tip Anemone that’s usually considered to be exotic. They’re rarer than standard Rose varieties and their pricing usually reflects that. The base of the Rainbow Bubble Tip Anemone is vibrant neon blue. This color gradually fades into a rose color on the tips of the tentacles.
Green Bubble Tip Anemones are fairly common. Like the Rose variety, these anemones are quite affordable and readily available in the trade.
Many new and seasoned aquarists dream of owning these invertebrates. But proper Bubble Tip Anemone care requires a bit of work to keep these creatures healthy! In short, we usually don’t recommend them for first-time aquarists. Having thorough knowledge about these animals is a must. The invertebrates are sensitive to water changes and require pristine conditions to stay in good shape. Failing to meet their needs can result in early death and damage to the tank environment as a whole. Yes, getting caught in a power head is a concern but rarely occurs. I have 6 (which time to sell a couple of them and none have ever left their spot in the tank.
The most important thing you’ll need to take care of before you bring your anemone home is perfecting the tank and water conditions. You should never place a Bubble Tip Anemone into a tank you just set up.
Take some time to get parameters just right and let the closed environment cycle for a few months. This ensures that conditions are stable and safe. Bubble Tip Anemones prefer warmer temperatures. Water should be on the alkali side as well. Monitor water conditions regularly to avoid any major changes. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be undetectable at all times using a good quakity test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.
  • Water temperature: Between 77°F and 82°F (stay close to the middle of this range)
  • pH level: 8.1 to 8.4
  • Water hardness: 8 to 12 dKH
  • Specific gravity: 1.024 to 1.025
  • Nitrate < .5
When you first introduce the anemone to the tank, turn down any pumps. The flow should be minimal until the anemone gets settled in. Chances are, your new Bubble Tip Anemone will move around the tank until it finds a suitable spot to call home.
If it starts to move towards any coral, simply direct your water jets to the coral. This will discourage the anemone from anchoring near it. It will move to another area to attach.
Bubble Tip Anemone lighting is a very important aspect of their care. These creatures need a lot of light to truly thrive because they’re photosynthetic. Basically, that means that they absorb light to make food and grow. The anemone has zooxanthellae in its body, which are symbiotic microorganisms they feed on. Without proper lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae and turn white. This process is called bleaching and often leads to death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended. Many aquarists agree that too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your jets at the anemone. The creatures enjoy subtle movement at all times. But too much direct flow hitting the anemone will force it to move.
Lastly- Feeding.
Bubble Tip Anemones feeding is one of the easiest parts of their care. These animals get food from a lot of different sources. As mentioned earlier, they are photosynthetic and use light to create food. They will also eat food off of the fish they host. These anemones enjoy small morsels of shrimp and squid. They will also accept many frozen foods. To feed the anemone, attach the food to a stick or large tweezers. Then, touch the anemone with it. The creature will use its tentacles to grab onto the food and consume it. twice a week feedings is ample.
 

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