It's a tough one. You could try to clean up the area and push the via back in. It will not have a good contact with the pad on the other side anymore, so you'd have to solder it on the inside between the PSU and the board. But then you'd still have to secure the pin on the other side, perhaps by applying enough solder to the pin so that it won't push out.Thank you, will be subscribing to your channel as well. The caps are in route, any advice on repairing the lifted trace?
Unlikely. Your case sounds like the second most common failure of EB832 after the one described in this thread. What is the behavior when you disconnect power to the head unit?I’ve had two EB832s fail right around the 1 year mark. They will work, but only when a power supply is plugged into the head unit. Are these displaying the same issue that can be resolved using instructions on the first post?
Unlikely. Your case sounds like the second most common failure of EB832 after the one described in this thread. What is the behavior when you disconnect power to the head unit?
Coincidentally, I literally just published an investigative repair video on the subject (repair article will be released in the next few days):
So no lights on the EB832 then? no neptune logo, no individual outlet status LEDs?
This does sound like the failed buck converter issue.
Did you connect the flex/ribbon cable on the top cover to the board correctly?
The way things are with these energy bars, a properly fixed EB832 is better than a new replacement.
Let us know what you find out.
Your videos are private, so I can't watch them.I found the videos from initial failure - interestingly enough I plugged it in today and it appear to be functional again... Very strange...
I'm not sure what's going on in the first video. I can only see that the EB832 is on and the head unit appears to be off.Ah shoot - they didn't publish correctly. Should be fixed now
I'm not sure what's going on in the first video. I can only see that the EB832 is on and the head unit appears to be off.
But in the second video I hear the click of death. Which is 99% related to the bad 12v power supply.
The 12v power supply does not provide power to the head unit over aquabus. Aquabus power comes from the 24v power supply converted down to 12v with the buck converter. I think you actually have two problems here. The 12v PSU is just the more obvious one.The first is how I usually find them when the problem occurs, EB flashing and head unit no power. Can be resolved with a power supply to the Head unit which I guess would make sense that the 12v is bad... Now to figure out changing it... I swear these things are made so poorly.