AquaticLife Hybrid Mod

Mac Galinato

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 24, 2016
Messages
15
Reaction score
17
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Could you post a photo of the ballast please? Wanted to know if it can take a 240v supply.

TIA
 
OP
OP
siggy

siggy

My Aquariums Going Again
View Badges
Joined
Feb 16, 2017
Messages
7,122
Reaction score
21,414
Location
MI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
OP
OP
siggy

siggy

My Aquariums Going Again
View Badges
Joined
Feb 16, 2017
Messages
7,122
Reaction score
21,414
Location
MI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Started rewiring yesterday @Mac Galinato I see you got your response but here's the picture

20180102_155441.jpg


20180102_155451.jpg
 
OP
OP
siggy

siggy

My Aquariums Going Again
View Badges
Joined
Feb 16, 2017
Messages
7,122
Reaction score
21,414
Location
MI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I am removing the end caps and using the four mounting holes to attach the tubing, I wonted to use #6-32 screws but the extrusion wount suport it so will use #4-40 stainless x 1.5" special order, I do have some zinc plated
so i can continue. I started to crossover, I am using the reds and 1 set of yellow

20180102_163341.jpg


20180102_155047.jpg


20180102_155056.jpg
 

Mac Galinato

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 24, 2016
Messages
15
Reaction score
17
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thanks @siggy! One can’t be too sure ;)

Was it easy taking the fixture apart? My reason of not trying to find out about the ballast myself was I could not, for the life of me, figure out how to pop of that lid housing the wires and ballasts.
 

Mac Galinato

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 24, 2016
Messages
15
Reaction score
17
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I also saw a post somewhere about the bulb holders fusing with the bulbs after a month’s use. The guy was running them at 7hrs / photoperiod. Going to try and look for thread.
 
OP
OP
siggy

siggy

My Aquariums Going Again
View Badges
Joined
Feb 16, 2017
Messages
7,122
Reaction score
21,414
Location
MI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I also saw a post somewhere about the bulb holders fusing with the bulbs after a month’s use. The guy was running them at 7hrs / photoperiod. Going to try and look for thread.
I can see that happening with the bulb holders, they have a soft GUM coating. Disassembly of the fixture is not recommended unless you have time and are familiar with lighting fixtures, the ballast is tightly packed and screwed into the recess away from the bulbs, the aluminum housing is actually a two piece extrusion and you need to slide appart to get at the ballast, more work than i want to do so I am going to splice my wires. To be honest I'm not that impressed with certain components of the build, the ballast -wires-sockets are good but the fixture end caps are flimsy sheet metal , granted they will be encapsulated with the conector plates
but even those fasteners are sheet metal screws and I can see long term problems when servicing becomes necessary, I am Tapping the extrusion to accept #4-40 stainless screws by 1.25" and should be plenty to handle anything I throw at it. Those of you purchasing the 61" x 24" should be concerned with this as you will most likely have a lot of weight with the addition of LED'S. I questioned the holders when i was disassembling and you just confirmed my suspicion on that. The last concern is No Salt Shield over the bulbs or are mine missing? the extrusion has the slot to accept the plastic/acrylic, 1 good splash on a hot bulb and my tank is full of glass and Hazardous compounds and salt water is going degrade the reflectors and the metal ballast over time.
I understand this is a economy fixture/solution WITH bonus led brackets but the bulb shield is a MUST! on any salt fixture.
 

Mac Galinato

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 24, 2016
Messages
15
Reaction score
17
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I can see that happening with the bulb holders, they have a soft GUM coating. Disassembly of the fixture is not recommended unless you have time and are familiar with lighting fixtures, the ballast is tightly packed and screwed into the recess away from the bulbs, the aluminum housing is actually a two piece extrusion and you need to slide appart to get at the ballast, more work than i want to do so I am going to splice my wires. To be honest I'm not that impressed with certain components of the build, the ballast -wires-sockets are good but the fixture end caps are flimsy sheet metal , granted they will be encapsulated with the conector plates
but even those fasteners are sheet metal screws and I can see long term problems when servicing becomes necessary, I am Tapping the extrusion to accept #4-40 stainless screws by 1.25" and should be plenty to handle anything I throw at it. Those of you purchasing the 61" x 24" should be concerned with this as you will most likely have a lot of weight with the addition of LED'S. I questioned the holders when i was disassembling and you just confirmed my suspicion on that. The last concern is No Salt Shield over the bulbs or are mine missing? the extrusion has the slot to accept the plastic/acrylic, 1 good splash on a hot bulb and my tank is full of glass and Hazardous compounds and salt water is going degrade the reflectors and the metal ballast over time.
I understand this is a economy fixture/solution WITH bonus led brackets but the bulb shield is a MUST! on any salt fixture.

No shields come with the fixture. Unless we can somehow pull an Aquaman and tell fishes to not splash water around, the only remedy would be to raise the fixture to a “comfortable” height - say 10 to 12inches? Then again, light spillage would be a pain....
 
OP
OP
siggy

siggy

My Aquariums Going Again
View Badges
Joined
Feb 16, 2017
Messages
7,122
Reaction score
21,414
Location
MI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
No shields come with the fixture. Unless we can somehow pull an Aquaman and tell fishes to not splash water around, the only remedy would be to raise the fixture to a “comfortable” height - say 10 to 12inches? Then again, light spillage would be a pain....
Agreed, I know other fluorescent fixtures are wide open and cooling is a issue so i guess its change out bulbs before they get brittle
 

Kyl

And how does it feel like, to wake up in the sun
View Badges
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
2,474
Reaction score
3,140
Location
humble.fish/community
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I also saw a post somewhere about the bulb holders fusing with the bulbs after a month’s use. The guy was running them at 7hrs / photoperiod. Going to try and look for thread.
There was one on the reddit reef tank sub about it yesterday.
 

AquaticLifeProducts

Aquarium Equipment Company
View Badges
Joined
Oct 22, 2015
Messages
1,035
Reaction score
907
Location
Los Angeles
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
There was one on the reddit reef tank sub about it yesterday.
I have only heard from one customer on this and I checked with the supplier. We have been running them for months and have not seen this concern. I checked with the supplier and they tell me the coating is good for 160°C before melting. Lamps are usually 70° - 80°C.

If it becomes a concern we may change to metal only.

Please share the link if you have it.

Thanks.
 
OP
OP
siggy

siggy

My Aquariums Going Again
View Badges
Joined
Feb 16, 2017
Messages
7,122
Reaction score
21,414
Location
MI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I have only heard from one customer on this and I checked with the supplier. We have been running them for months and have not seen this concern. I checked with the supplier and they tell me the coating is good for 160°C before melting. Lamps are usually 70° - 80°C.
If it becomes a concern we may change to metal only.
Please share the link if you have it.
Thanks.
Dave, I must say you gave some thought into the bulb holders and sockets, the added rubber to protect the bulbs was an added touch, so thanks and I hope it's just a random thing. I do however think the cross braces need stronger/longer fasteners or more.
FYI the 4-40's i'm using is slightly undersized for the extrusion, a better fit would be a #5-40 but that is such a difficult size to get taps and fasteners I went with long #4's and a metric equivalent could be a better option.

@Kyl & @Mac Galinato if you could find the article and post I would be much obliged
 

AquaticLifeProducts

Aquarium Equipment Company
View Badges
Joined
Oct 22, 2015
Messages
1,035
Reaction score
907
Location
Los Angeles
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Dave, I must say you gave some thought into the bulb holders and sockets, the added rubber to protect the bulbs was an added touch, so thanks and I hope it's just a random thing. I do however think the cross braces need stronger/longer fasteners or more.
FYI the 4-40's i'm using is slightly undersized for the extrusion, a better fit would be a #5-40 but that is such a difficult size to get taps and fasteners I went with long #4's and a metric equivalent could be a better option.

@Kyl & @Mac Galinato if you could find the article and post I would be much obliged

When you mention cross braces do you mean the end plates or the LED mounting brackets? Just want to make sure I understand which part.

Appreciate the suggestions.
 
OP
OP
siggy

siggy

My Aquariums Going Again
View Badges
Joined
Feb 16, 2017
Messages
7,122
Reaction score
21,414
Location
MI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
This is awesome!!! I just picked up this hybrid setup and agree wire management and bulb control needs this upgrade!
@AquaticLifeProducts after starting this mod I see the need for a better Premium fixture on this platform, with switches a single cord and splash guards and that would mean cooling as well. I'm sure you seen the BRS video on cooling t5"s,
I Know I would pay 500 for a quality fixture that hits all the points and accepts LED integration.

When you mention cross braces do you mean the end plates or the LED mounting brackets? Just want to make sure I understand which part.

Appreciate the suggestions.
the end plates that connect the two fixtures, just 2 screws each end,although i just realized the led mounting brackets will help with separation and stability.
 

Kyl

And how does it feel like, to wake up in the sun
View Badges
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
2,474
Reaction score
3,140
Location
humble.fish/community
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
@Kyl & @Mac Galinato if you could find the article and post I would be much obliged
Blocked at work, but I think it was just a picture at /r/reeftank either yesterday or the day before. I'll check to see if it's there in a couple of hours.
 
OP
OP
siggy

siggy

My Aquariums Going Again
View Badges
Joined
Feb 16, 2017
Messages
7,122
Reaction score
21,414
Location
MI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
@Kyl thanks for finding this.
melt-bulb.jpg
 
OP
OP
siggy

siggy

My Aquariums Going Again
View Badges
Joined
Feb 16, 2017
Messages
7,122
Reaction score
21,414
Location
MI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
This is only one out of thousands and several here have been trying different bulb combinations with no reports, so i'm thinking a bad dip or those were some cooked (brittle) bulbs to start with, let's hope.
Polyvinylidene Fluoride (PVDF) shrink tube may be a solution if mine start to do this.
 

AquaticLifeProducts

Aquarium Equipment Company
View Badges
Joined
Oct 22, 2015
Messages
1,035
Reaction score
907
Location
Los Angeles
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
@AquaticLifeProducts after starting this mod I see the need for a better Premium fixture on this platform, with switches a single cord and splash guards and that would mean cooling as well. I'm sure you seen the BRS video on cooling t5"s,
I Know I would pay 500 for a quality fixture that hits all the points and accepts LED integration.


the end plates that connect the two fixtures, just 2 screws each end,although i just realized the led mounting brackets will help with separation and stability.

What do you think if the height of the fixture is increased to add the fans and splash guards? Would the taller profile kill the appeal?

Thanks, there should be two screws each fixture per end for a total of 8. After the LED brackets are attached like you mention the rigidity of the fixture is increased considerably.
 
Back
Top