ATI Straton LED Light - Comments, Review, PAR, Coverage, Discuss...

[Nburg's Reef]

I was hoping for a fancy app… just the browser version of the software in app form. I guess it makes it more accessible

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

I was hoping for a fancy app… just the browser version of the software in app form. I guess it makes it more accessible

Look closer. Gives you PAR estimations.

 

[Naturalreef]

I advised not turning up your intensity too much because of all the extra UV and other LEDs in the Straton.

Everyone using the Straton should stop trying to customize the schedules and the spectrum and go with one of the presets for at least 6 months. The mixed setting for LPS/SPS is almost perfect. It is set to mimic the ATI T5 bulbs and it does so in spectrum and intensity.

I have my Straton 16 inches from the top of the water and set to 75% intensity. It runs the Mixed mode and every coral/frag I have, has quadrupled in size in the last 3 to 4 months. I have SPS, LPS and a Toadstool or two.

ATI knows better than anyone about the schedules and the ramps of the light. LEDs are much more intense than T5 or MH, it is just a different spectrum delivery. Everyone thinks they have to turn up LEDs to 100% because they have SPS. It's the worst thing you can do. THAT is what is bleaching your corals. It is a large change in what you had previously.

Just take it easy and go slower, nothing you have will suffer and you can always increase intensity as you go and as the corals dictate.

Curious about this statement hurricane…. My apogee sq-420 says 250 par with Sps plakativ at 80%. Light is about 16 inches above a IM lagoon 25 all Sps. I noticed my Sps polyps retracting the last two weeks when I bumped up the light setting to 80%. Alk 7.5 No3…8. Po4 ….05.

I have to think even though Par was 190-220 ish and then bumped up to 250, Sps didn’t like it due to all the UV like you mentioned. I initially thought it was a spaghetti worm irritating the coral.

always seen polyp retraction as a first sign of high lighting.

No pests, Two clownfish……thoughts?

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Curious about this statement hurricane…. My apogee sq-420 says 250 par with Sps plakativ at 80%. Light is about 16 inches above a IM lagoon 25 all Sps. I noticed my Sps polyps retracting the last two weeks when I bumped up the light setting to 80%. Alk 7.5 No3…8. Po4 ….05.

I have to think even though Par was 190-220 ish and then bumped up to 250, Sps didn’t like it due to all the UV like you mentioned. I initially thought it was a spaghetti worm irritating the coral.

always seen polyp retraction as a first sign of high lighting.

No pests, Two clownfish……thoughts?

Hey there, Naturalreef,

A couple of things come to mind. Any reason you're running SPS Plakativ? Do you just like the look? That preset has a lot of white light in it and 80% is far too much. Remember what I said above, it isn't just about UV with the Straton, it has 153 LEDs.

What corals do you have? What are you using for flow and what's the intensity of flow?

PAR is very hard to read in a small cube. It's always better to be lower on the intensity as you can always go up gradually. If you're too high, you'll bleach and kill corals. I'm sure your corals are retracting because of the intensity.

LEDs penetrate much deeper than T5 or Halide. So 250 on a PAR meter for LED is a lot. I've seen some videos on YouTube where some Coral breeders are saying they run they're corals at 450 to 600 PAR. I call BS. Unless you had a 40 inch deep tank, that would most likely bleach everything you had. Initially especially. Now am I saying it's not possible? No, but you're not putting any newly introduced animals under that.

Let me know on the questions.

 

[Naturalreef]

Thanks for your input Hurricane!

I have a acropora dominant system with a 4 inch maxima and a small frag of frogspawn. I’m running two Mp10qd across from each other running antisync with reef crest. Flow is heavy due to running the lights at a higher setting.

Agree with everything you say. I guess I got caught up in the par meter, since I ran radions and Kessil ap9x previously at 250-300 par. Also, sticks were green which made me think they needed more light. But I was dosing chaetogrow which has iron.

I was previously running the deep sea blue which I loved, but was worried I wasn’t giving my sticks enough par. And polyps retracted a week after bumping up the intensity In plakativ. I just lowered my intensity to 60% running deep sea blue.

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Thanks for your input Hurricane!

I have a acropora dominant system with a 4 inch maxima and a small frag of frogspawn. I’m running two Mp10qd across from each other running antisync with reef crest. Flow is heavy due to running the lights at a higher setting.

Agree with everything you say. I guess I got caught up in the par meter, since I ran radions and Kessil ap9x previously at 250-300 par. Also, sticks were green which made me think they needed more light. But I was dosing chaetogrow which has iron.

I was previously running the deep sea blue which I loved, but was worried I wasn’t giving my sticks enough par. And polyps retracted a week after bumping up the intensity In plakativ. I just lowered my intensity to 60% running deep sea blue.

Sounds good. I always ran the Mixed Reef mode as I liked the medium blue, 14k look. I also like the setting you're running, but the Mixed Mode was very good in settings. The only thing I did was create my own preset and used the settings of Mixed Mode and removed most of the red and green. I left them on around 20 each.

You'll do great with the presets, just giving some information. If you ever need some help, let me know.

I would lower the Straton intensity to 60% overall. It will be plenty and you can let your corals adjust. I had mine mounted at 16 inches over a 40 gallon cube and I was running 60% and it was great. I had some frags and frogspawn, nothing major as I hadn't had it up long.

I have the basically new Straton in the box waiting to be sold as I can't use it any longer.

 

[Naturalreef]

Sounds good. I always ran the Mixed Reef mode as I liked the medium blue, 14k look. I also like the setting you're running, but the Mixed Mode was very good in settings. The only thing I did was create my own preset and used the settings of Mixed Mode and removed most of the red and green. I left them on around 20 each.

You'll do great with the presets, just giving some information. If you ever need some help, let me know.

I would lower the Straton intensity to 60% overall. It will be plenty and you can let your corals adjust. I had mine mounted at 16 inches over a 40 gallon cube and I was running 60% and it was great. I had some frags and frogspawn, nothing major as I hadn't had it up long.

I have the basically new Straton in the box waiting to be sold as I can't use it any longer.

Thanks Hurricane, will do. I’m shocked no one has jumped on your straton! It’s a powerful,beautiful light.

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Thanks Hurricane, will do. I’m shocked no one has jumped on your straton! It’s a powerful,beautiful light.

Anytime, you're very welcome. Haha, well I haven't listed it yet. Been really busy with work.

 

[Curiousbranching]

I need help with my straton.
After I switch from direct access to access point mode, I can't connect to my Straton anymore. Now my lamp seems to be working differently from my settings, and I even can't do a factory reset (hold the reset button for 10 seconds).

 

[Naturalreef]

I need help with my straton.
After I switch from direct access to access point mode, I can't connect to my Straton anymore. Now my lamp seems to be working differently from my settings, and I even can't do a factory reset (hold the reset button for 10 seconds).

When I did that, I had to hold the reset button for 30 seconds which worked.

 

[Curiousbranching]

When I did that, I had to hold the reset button for 30 seconds which worked.

Mine does not respond when I do a factory reset. The light on the wireless board keep flashing yellowish.

 

[mstgkillr]

I'm second guessing my choice of (3) Stratons for my Red Sea Reefer-S 1000 (82.7'x26.75"x25.6") predominantly SPS (acropora) mixed reef, or maybe just not getting 4 fixtures instead of 3.

The aesthetics of the fixture itself are awesome! However, coming from Radium MH with VHO, then to Radion G5 Blues (AB+), the SPS Plakativ is way too yellow. Even the mixed reef setting seems too yellow. The LPS setting is ok, but even that could use a little more blue, and I'm not sure if it will produce enough PAR.

Additionally, it appears that many have had issues acclimating both LPS and SPS coral to their Stratons. Are there any success stories?

If my tank wasn't so long (82.7'x26.75"x25.6"), I would have most likely went with the 60" ATI SunPower 8x80W T5 fixture, or the Giesemann Spectra 72" MH with 250W or 400W Radiums and 4x80W T5. I'm kinda wondering if these fixtures, although shorter than the tank, would still be ideal? The tank is eurobraced, so I probably lose 2"-3" per side, making the opening 76.7" to 78.7".

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

I'm second guessing my choice of (3) Stratons for my Red Sea Reefer-S 1000 (82.7'x26.75"x25.6") predominantly SPS (acropora) mixed reef, or maybe just not getting 4 fixtures instead of 3.

The aesthetics of the fixture itself are awesome! However, coming from Radium MH with VHO, then to Radion G5 Blues (AB+), the SPS Plakativ is way too yellow. Even the mixed reef setting seems too yellow. The LPS setting is ok, but even that could use a little more blue, and I'm not sure if it will produce enough PAR.

Additionally, it appears that many have had issues acclimating both LPS and SPS coral to their Stratons. Are there any success stories?

If my tank wasn't so long (82.7'x26.75"x25.6"), I would have most likely went with the 60" ATI SunPower 8x80W T5 fixture, or the Giesemann Spectra 72" MH with 250W or 400W Radiums and 4x80W T5. I'm kinda wondering if these fixtures, although shorter than the tank, would still be ideal? The tank is eurobraced, so I probably lose 2"-3" per side, making the opening 76.7" to 78.7".

Have you physically seen the Straton and the spectrum it puts out? You're way off on the modes and the Straton looks near identical to their T5 fixtures.

There's no debate, Metal Halide is the best, T5 is a very close second and LED is third. That's just how it is.

If you don't climate control your home and have central heating and air, then sure MH might put out some heat. I never notice it in my home as it is climate controlled.

It is ZERO difference in electricity bills. Why? I have two, 200w heaters that used to run many times throughout the day. Now, they never run and the water temp stays perfect. Everything has its pros and cons.

You can adjust the Straton to look any way you want it. It has 156 LEDs. Am I saying it's right for your tank, no. You'll have to decide that.

Coral growth is not just lighting. It's a chemistry experiment. Keep the water at the levels the corals need, make sure you have enough flow and correct, varying flow, etc.

 

[mstgkillr]

Have you physically seen the Straton and the spectrum it puts out? You're way off on the modes and the Straton looks near identical to their T5 fixtures.

There's no debate, Metal Halide is the best, T5 is a very close second and LED is third. That's just how it is.

If you don't climate control your home and have central heating and air, then sure MH might put out some heat. I never notice it in my home as it is climate controlled.

It is ZERO difference in electricity bills. Why? I have two, 200w heaters that used to run many times throughout the day. Now, they never run and the water temp stays perfect. Everything has its pros and cons.

You can adjust the Straton to look any way you want it. It has 156 LEDs. Am I saying it's right for your tank, no. You'll have to decide that.

Coral growth is not just lighting. It's a chemistry experiment. Keep the water at the levels the corals need, make sure you have enough flow and correct, varying flow, etc.

I've had Stratons on the tank for about 6 months, so I am well aware of at least the look of the spectrum. Why do you say that I am way off on the modes, and how could their T5 fixtures look near identical with multiple bulb combinations?

I agree with everything else with the exception of making the Stratons look any way you want, as they are a bit shy on the blue spectrum less.

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

I've had Stratons on the tank for about 6 months, so I am well aware of at least the look of the spectrum. Why do you say that I am way off on the modes, and how could their T5 fixtures look near identical with multiple bulb combinations?

I agree with everything else with the exception of making the Stratons look any way you want, as they are a bit shy on the blue spectrum less.

Well, after re-reading my paragraph, I didn't mean to come off that way. So apologies if I offended you.

Back to topic, when I had mine up, it was complete night and day on SPS and Mixed Mode. LPS mode was more blue than mixed mode, but not a super blue so I could see what you're saying there.

I think it's a great light, it does have that flat T5 look and zero shimmer. It's an amazing fixture and I've seen some great tanks running Stratons.

I do know there was another large tank running Stratons and he wasn't happy. He couldn't get his corals to adjust to them. He had a TON of Acro colonies, I mean wall to wall.

Honestly, do yourself a favor. Keep or sell the Stratons and go back to MH or T5s and supplement them with LED. I personally don't think LED is a viable option for the long run. I've seen a lot more failures than successes.

I do know the new firmware and mobile app show you spectrum. Now I don't know it's because they guessed or they actually change as you change the LED brightness. I haven't tried it as mines all boxed up and ready to sell.

 

[mstgkillr]

Well, after re-reading my paragraph, I didn't mean to come off that way. So apologies if I offended you.

Back to topic, when I had mine up, it was complete night and day on SPS and Mixed Mode. LPS mode was more blue than mixed mode, but not a super blue so I could see what you're saying there.

I think it's a great light, it does have that flat T5 look and zero shimmer. It's an amazing fixture and I've seen some great tanks running Stratons.

I do know there was another large tank running Stratons and he wasn't happy. He couldn't get his corals to adjust to them. He had a TON of Acro colonies, I mean wall to wall.

Honestly, do yourself a favor. Keep or sell the Stratons and go back to MH or T5s and supplement them with LED. I personally don't think LED is a viable option for the long run. I've seen a lot more failures than successes.

I do know the new firmware and mobile app show you spectrum. Now I don't know it's because they guessed or they actually change as you change the LED brightness. I haven't tried it as mines all boxed up and ready to sell.

I did't take your post as offensive... no worries.

My experience is the SPS mode is the most white/yellow, followed by the mixed mode. LPS is the most blue, but nowhere near that of Radion G5 Blues or Radion MH.

It is an awesome fixture! Do you have any examples of the larger SPS tanks that are doing well? With SPS there are so many variables, and I understand a light change can set an SPS tank back by many months if not a year.

I'll have to take a look at the new app a little closer. I didn't see where it showed spectrum... do you mean like 14k, 20k, etc?

 

[oreo54]

I did't take your post as offensive... no worries.

My experience is the SPS mode is the most white/yellow, followed by the mixed mode. LPS is the most blue, but nowhere near that of Radion G5 Blues or Radion MH.

It is an awesome fixture! Do you have any examples of the larger SPS tanks that are doing well? With SPS there are so many variables, and I understand a light change can set an SPS tank back by many months if not a year.

I'll have to take a look at the new app a little closer. I didn't see where it showed spectrum... do you mean like 14k, 20k, etc?

You need to be careful about k temp comparisons.
Most bulbs like mh's used a LOT of artistic license in labelling their bulbs.
Also different ballasts create different k temps.

Especially 20000k which many were just labelled as a " blue bulbs".

Not to mention any k temp has multiple ( infinite?) visual looks depending on the composition of nm's. Many combinations will "average" the same k temp.

 

[oreo54]

There's no debate, Metal Halide is the best, T5 is a very close second and LED is third. That's just how it is.





Coral growth is not just lighting. It's a chemistry experiment.

There is always debates. Some healthy, some not so much.

As to heat/humidity/energy variables are numerous. Like the physical fact that mh's s push more heat down into the tank than most LEDs thus increasing evaporation and as noted decreasing heating costs.
There is no one size fits all though.

At one time people believed t5's couldn't color up corals well.
History:

Metal Halide vs. T5

Ok...looking for some opinions on these two lighting systems. I am currently working on setting up a 100 gallon AGA...48x24x24 Plans are for a mixed reef with an emphasis on SPS corals. My original thoughts were for a dual 250W MH system but after doing some extensive reading I am not so...

www.reef2reef.com

Your last statement is Soo much more important than the light choice though one could add biological and ecological experiment to it.

 

[Sushitheshiba]

Just upgraded the firmware yesterday to the newest one. Is it me or there’s kind of a glitch? I’m trying to select the node (on a laptop) that i would like to change, but it doesn’t “highlight” it anymore. For it to be “highlighted”, i have to drag the node first instead of just a single click. Also, I did not spot the PAR estimations on it (but i also can’t find the ketchup in the fridge most of the time per wife)

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

There is always debates. Some healthy, some not so much.

As to heat/humidity/energy variables are numerous. Like the physical fact that mh's s push more heat down into the tank than most LEDs thus increasing evaporation and as noted decreasing heating costs.
There is no one size fits all though.

At one time people believed t5's couldn't color up corals well.
History:

Metal Halide vs. T5

Ok...looking for some opinions on these two lighting systems. I am currently working on setting up a 100 gallon AGA...48x24x24 Plans are for a mixed reef with an emphasis on SPS corals. My original thoughts were for a dual 250W MH system but after doing some extensive reading I am not so...

www.reef2reef.com

Your last statement is Soo much more important than the light choice though one could add biological and ecological experiment to it.

Couldn't agree more, yes chemistry is Paramount.

@Sushitheshiba - I was looking at the Google app store. I have loaded the app, but I haven't used it. It's called ATI Reef tech.

It isn't the spectral graph, I was mistaken. If you look at this screenshot, look at the top left corner and right under the ATI logo, you'll see "PAR @ 30CM" etc.

This might just be some starting points for people. I remember seeing an article where a place did PAR measurements and spectrum analysis, but they did it out of the water, in the air. I don't agree with that as the water changes things a lot.

Can't say for certain that's what they used, but they may have performed their own tests. I'm sure they have at some point.