ATI Straton LED Light - Comments, Review, PAR, Coverage, Discuss...

ATI North America

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Thanks, switch the cables around and running the two the length may work. Seems the hanging cable is the same size so I could just use that.

BTW the ecotech option over an 8’ tank using an RMS amount is a no go, they can’t even support 5 XR30’s without bending inches in the middle.

Good to know, although you would only need 3x Straton to cover the length. Not sure the weight difference.
 

Kyl

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Can a very close up shot of the mounting holes be produced? I would be one of those that would rather direct-mount these to a fixed frame extrusion assembly mounted to a wall, than hang. I assume out of the box they're simply crimp terminated ends?
 

ATI North America

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Can a very close up shot of the mounting holes be produced? I would be one of those that would rather direct-mount these to a fixed frame extrusion assembly mounted to a wall, than hang. I assume out of the box they're simply crimp terminated ends?

Hopefully this works?

They are not crimped terminals they use Grip Lock fasteners like our other hanging kits.

(I am working on determining cable diameter)
 

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Hydrored

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Got the ecotech RMS hung from the ceiling, that was a blast with 15’ ceilings. Need to level it still and pull the old lights down. Came up with a mounting solution for the Straton’s. I will still say that I’m not a big fan of the mounting at all.

EA2B7518-D57E-4ACC-A372-2803F16368B2.jpeg 3EF10900-E69D-4D15-95B0-EBD2A5D74C7D.jpeg
 

Hydrored

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Got the ecotech RMS hung from the ceiling, that was a blast with 15’ ceilings. Need to level it still and pull the old lights down. Came up with a mounting solution for the Straton’s. I will still say that I’m not a big fan of the mounting at all.

EA2B7518-D57E-4ACC-A372-2803F16368B2.jpeg 3EF10900-E69D-4D15-95B0-EBD2A5D74C7D.jpeg

Got all 4 hung, started with LPS and had to lower 2 of the 4 lights using the group. Torches were seeing 330 PAR on the bottom where lights intersect. Have to cut all the hanging wires and even them out-

BBC3458A-B30E-4F26-966A-0A8B33C0C7CB.jpeg
 
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Looks good @Hydrored! I am glad that you were able to come to a solution. PM me if you have any questions as you get yours running. I can share my program too. So far, everything from torches, to lobos, to SPS, to Zoas, and chalices, are loving the light.

@Kyl I posted a zoomed in pic of the friction lock fitting on the light body a few pages back (maybe page 2 or 3?).

If the ecotech rail is too flimsy (they are remarkably flimsy), you could definitely order a stretch of 8020 rail, they come in many form factors, in a few colors too, and they are rigid as all get-out.

I do agree that a tank mount would be cool, but @ATI North America explained why that was not done. If I had a 3D printer, I would totally fabricate something to grab the lights.

Also worth noting, if you get more of the cable, BE CAREFUL TO GET THE SAME DIAMETER, not bigger/thicker/larger diameter cable. It may ruin the height adjuster.

But if you do get more of the cable, you could run the little level adjust cables front to back instead of side to side, and then put the height adjuster on those and then run the cable up to the ceiling.

In my experience, with a little bit of fiddling, getting the lights to align and sit level was not too bad. I'll say this too, everyone that sees my tank who knows reefing immediately comments on how amazing my lights look.
 
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oh one other item worth noting. With many LEDs on the market today, you see people mounting reefbrites to them to get that reefbrite "pop" since the fixture does not have the capability.

I can honestly say with a little fiddling you can replicate the reefbrite XHO blue spectrum, power, and pop with these, and do so with much more even coverage. Which is great, because adding reefbrites to this clean a fixture would be ;Yuck

I'll post some growth/color pics soon. I need to get a porthole for my DSLR so that I can take some better pics. @AVAST Marine want to let me test your top-down porthole and write a review??? ;Happy
 

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LPS were struggling last night even with the same PAR, I lowered the whites and everything opened back up today. I ran it pretty blue with the radions. Curious to hear what everybody else is running for settings.
 
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This is my current schedule, 4 fixtures, about 10" up, I have a lot of SPS and some chalices/zoas/torches/LPS lower down:

1603213141506.png


So you can see I start the day on a color that I made called "pop" which just adds some UV/Violet to the existing "fluorescent". Then I go to "Fluorescent", then LPS/SPS to get a bit more 15K look, then to LPS which is more 20K, then back to Fluorescent, then "Pop" again for evening viewing. So far all seem pretty happy with his. The fixtures stay cool, and my PAR is about 350 for top SPS and about 200 on sandbed.

Here is my "pop" spectrum:

1603213298278.png


I'd be stoked to see what others are running!

I also may try in the future the "spikes" of power during the day that I think Sanjay and some others are doing to play with photoinhibition and high PAR.
 
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Here is where i've settled-

Screen Shot 2020-10-20 at 5.22.46 PM.png

One thing that jumps out at me is that it may have been the UV or Violet levels that your LPS may have been shy of, as opposed to the white. There are a lot of UV/Violet LEDs and I am not really well versed in how much of that light our corals usually see.

I will try your spectrum and see how it looks!
 

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One thing that jumps out at me is that it may have been the UV or Violet levels that your LPS may have been shy of, as opposed to the white. There are a lot of UV/Violet LEDs and I am not really well versed in how much of that light our corals usually see.

I will try your spectrum and see how it looks!

Good catch on that, testing the PAR with an apogee 510 I'm hitting LPS with the same PAR values. For whatever reason they were not happy starting last night, I always ran the G5's at 50% UV so that maybe it.
 

Being sticky and staying connected: Have you used any reef-safe glue?

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