Automated RODI with Drinking Water

jknorr23

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Hey Everyone. My house has a dedicated RO unit for drinking water in my basement which connects to a faucet at our sink. That unit is old and recently started leaking, but I happen to be setting up my saltwater mixing station about 10 feet away. I'd like to use my BRS 7 Stage Pro RODI unit for my mixing station as well as to feed my drinking water supply. I'm no expert by any means, but I think I got the basic concept down. I've attached a diagram below of what I was thinking and I'd love another set of eyes to make sure I'm not setting myself up for failure. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!

RODI LAYOUT.jpg
 

xxkenny90xx

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Looks good to me. You just don't want your drinking water going through the di stages is all
 

snorklr

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only thing i'd say is put the booster pump after the sediment and carbon cannisters and before the ro membrane ...that way you arent subjecting them to 80 lbs of pressure all the time
 

Gtinnel

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only thing i'd say is put the booster pump after the sediment and carbon cannisters and before the ro membrane ...that way you arent subjecting them to 80 lbs of pressure all the time
How does putting the booster pump after the sediment/carbon cause it to not have constant pressure on it? The first thing that can stop the water (not including the ball valve) is the auto shut off valve.
 

Phil D.

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How does putting the booster pump after the sediment/carbon cause it to not have constant pressure on it? The first thing that can stop the water (not including the ball valve) is the auto shut off valve.
If you look at all the RO units that have booster pumps, they are in between the sediment/carbon and RO membranes
 

Gtinnel

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If you look at all the RO units that have booster pumps, they are in between the sediment/carbon and RO membranes
I agree that moving it after the sediment/carbon is a good idea I'm just not sure if it will stop it from constantly having the feed pressure on it. Unless it goes after the auto shut off valve.
I wasn't questioning the suggestion of where to move the pump to, just that I don't think his reason is correct. Unless I'm missing something.
 

snorklr

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the sediment/ carbon stages will still have whatever water pressure your house has on them...in the case of my well that varies between 40-60 lbs...which should be a little kinder to the plastic housings than the 80 + coming out of the booster pump....you only need the high pressure to force the water through the RO membrane
 

RocketEngineer

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Put another way: In the last two houses I’ve lived at there has been fine sediment in the water coming from the well. I wouldn’t want that grit getting into my booster pump. At a minimum I would want the sediment filter before the booster pump and if I have one, might was well do the carbon at the same time.
 

KStatefan

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I would move the booster pump to after the sediment/carbon filters as others have said. I would also move the taste filter to the line going to the water faucet. I would also look into adding a high-low level control to your storage tank if you are going to let if fill automatically
 

Saltyanimals

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Are you guys simply teeing off right before DI and drinking that water straight up? I recall there was some re-mineralizing concept that adds back in some of the minerals to make the water taste better. Something about a "carbon polishing block" right before the drinking water just like in the diagram, but I wasn't able to find anything clear on if this is really necessary. Or specially which one to buy.
 

BZOFIQ

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Agree with others re moving booster pump after your pre-filters. The 'taste' filter should be moved after that ball valve and before the faucet.
 

BZOFIQ

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Are you guys simply teeing off right before DI and drinking that water straight up? I recall there was some re-mineralizing concept that adds back in some of the minerals to make the water taste better. Something about a "carbon polishing block" right before the drinking water just like in the diagram, but I wasn't able to find anything clear on if this is really necessary. Or specially which one to buy.

The polishing 'taste' filter removes the somewhat strange taste of RO water stored in storage tanks, some people say its fishy. Some tanks' membranes can give off that taste/smell when the water sits in it.
 

KStatefan

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Are you guys simply teeing off right before DI and drinking that water straight up? I recall there was some re-mineralizing concept that adds back in some of the minerals to make the water taste better. Something about a "carbon polishing block" right before the drinking water just like in the diagram, but I wasn't able to find anything clear on if this is really necessary. Or specially which one to buy.

I have a taste carbon filter where the line goes to the fridge. Spectrapure, buckeye, Air Water Ice, BRS sells them.
 

Saltyanimals

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I have a taste carbon filter where the line goes to the fridge. Spectrapure, buckeye, Air Water Ice, BRS sells them.

Can you post some links please. I see carbon filters, but I thought those are to remove bad taste. Aren't we talking about something that adds minerals or are they really just a 2nd carbon filter right before feeding the drinking water storage.
 

KStatefan

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Saltyanimals

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Ahh ha! So it is a remineralizer not just another carbon block to remove funny taste. BRS sells a Omnipure Inline Carbon Block for taste, but that doesn't appear to be a remineralizer. I guess this is the key to making RO water family-friendly.
 

KStatefan

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Ahh ha! So it is a remineralizer not just another carbon block to remove funny taste. BRS sells a Omnipure Inline Carbon Block for taste, but that doesn't appear to be a remineralizer. I guess this is the key to making RO water family-friendly.

You do not need an remineralizer a taste and odor carbon filter is all I use.
 

KStatefan

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Oh so you don't actually use the Spectrapure link that you shared? Mind sharing which one you actually use? Thanks!

I have used these



 

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