Balling and ionic disbalance

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Your response also makes me smile. But actually, it’s concerning. Initially, there was speculation on the manufacturers' websites about what could be influencing the sulfur levels, and they admitted they had no explanation for it. When people wanted to discuss the topic of ionic imbalance, it was denied, and they claimed the system was balanced.

It’s very concerning but not shocking. Lots of claims are made that have no proof or evidence and when questioned they just want to silence the critics
 
When I used FM Balling Light I did ended up with sulphur drop:
1738024303194.jpeg


It took me some time to clue in it was ionic imbalance, but not before I got this to fix the issue:
1738024539809.jpeg
I'm so sorry, but where is Sulphur drop here?
 
I don’t personally know what these terms mean exactly, as I expect there’s some variation in how they are used and implemented, but I will say that the form used by Tropic Marin using Balling Part C is ion balanced, as are some two parts which put those same ions into just two of the parts (such as ESV B-ionic).

A two part that relies in water changes may be wholly adequate, especially if rises are in the low side, but they cannot be fully ion balanced. Some of my diy recipes fit that description.
Basically Tropic Marin Classic and Fauna Marin Balling light.
 
Basically Tropic Marin Classic and Fauna Marin Balling light.

I know what exactly is in TM Balling products, as well as my recommended recipe using your own calcium chloride, sodium bicarbonate/carbonate/hydroxide, and TM Balling Part C or Aquaforest mineral salt.

I do not know the composition of the FM product and would not recommend it for that reason. They do not claim in the description that it contains what it must to be balanced. It might be, or not.
 
I know what exactly is in TM Balling products, as well as my recommended recipe using your own calcium chloride, sodium bicarbonate/carbonate/hydroxide, and TM Balling Part C or Aquaforest mineral salt.

I do not know the composition of the FM product and would not recommend it for that reason. They do not claim in the description that it contains what it must to be balanced. It might be, or not.
How can I recognize ionic imbalance in aquarium using ICP?
Is an ionic imbalance when trace elements (Part C in classical Balling) are not added during the formation of NaCl or something another?
 
I'm so sorry, but where is Sulphur drop here?
Is this better???
1738152216317.jpeg


When using FM Balling light…

But perhaps you follow different definitions and this is only sulphur consumption!!!

My understanding is that sulphur should only move with salinity, but perhaps I am wrong. :thinking-face:
 
Is this better???
1738152216317.jpeg


When using FM Balling light…

But perhaps you follow different definitions and this is only sulphur consumption!!!

My understanding is that sulphur should only move with salinity, but perhaps I am wrong. :thinking-face:
Before you showed 900 ppm.
 
Before you showed 900 ppm.
Where?
If you re read and actually look at the picture, my level was at 821. The 900 is the ideal target suggest by FM, and the recommendation to use S bottle to address the issue.

I will say it, from my experience FM Balling light does not result in ionic balance and it doesn’t matter how many times Claude says the opposite on his YouTube videos.

TM Original Balling will provide ionic balance.
 
Last edited:
Where?
If you re read and actually look at the picture, my level was at 821. The 900 is the ideal target suggest by FM, and the recommendation to but S bottle to address the issue.

I will say it, from my experience FM Balling light does not result in ionic balance and it doesn’t matter how many times Claude says the opposite on his YouTube videos.

TM Original Balling will provide ionic balance.
What do you use now?
 
How can I recognize ionic imbalance in aquarium using ICP?
Is an ionic imbalance when trace elements (Part C in classical Balling) are not added during the formation of NaCl or something another?

Low potassium or low sulfate are likely the most clear concerns with this type of ion imbalance, assuming one maintain magnesium, but all ions are depleted by it.
 
The old Balling Light manual from Fauna Marin was a simple text document that listed exactly what was in what powder. See attached document.

Part 1 - Calcium chloride dihydrate, 400 gram/L
Part 2 - Magnesium chloride hexahydrate, 400 gram/L
Part 3 - Sodium bicarbonate, 100 gram/L

Trace elements are added to 1 and 3.

10% weekly water changes were (and are) a mandatory part of the method, to keep the inevitable ionic imbalance within reasonable proportions.

From what I've read/seen/heard about Balling Light recently, I think it is very unlikely the ingredients have changed at all. So there is no sulfate in there, the method won't prevent sulfate from getting diluted out of your tank water if water changes are insufficient. The small amounts of the trace element mixes cannot compensate the ionic imbalance.
 

Attachments

Low potassium or low sulfate are likely the most clear concerns with this type of ion imbalance, assuming one maintain magnesium, but all ions are depleted by it.
Oh boy… here is my stash of some of the bottles:
1738156438107.jpeg


I guess it was educational for me…
 
The old Balling Light manual from Fauna Marin was a simple text document that listed exactly what was in what powder. See attached document.

Part 1 - Calcium chloride dihydrate, 400 gram/L
Part 2 - Magnesium chloride hexahydrate, 400 gram/L
Part 3 - Sodium bicarbonate, 100 gram/L

Trace elements are added to 1 and 3.

10% weekly water changes were (and are) a mandatory part of the method, to keep the inevitable ionic imbalance within reasonable proportions.

From what I've read/seen/heard about Balling Light recently, I think it is very unlikely the ingredients have changed at all. So there is no sulfate in there, the method won't prevent sulfate from getting diluted out of your tank water if water changes are insufficient. The small amounts of the trace element mixes cannot compensate the ionic imbalance.

Same is true of potassium. It will decline even with water changes.
 
Low potassium or low sulfate are likely the most clear concerns with this type of ion imbalance, assuming one maintain magnesium, but all ions are depleted by it.
Thus, we can additionally use K and S to replenish that elements or it can to lead us to something another harmful effect?
 
Same is true of potassium. It will decline even with water changes.
That what got me, I figured the water change would fix it.

In retrospect it is no different when discussing trace elements, the ones that are suppressed/ consumed etc… and cannot be replaced to the original level with water changes.
 
Thus, we can additionally use K and S to replenish that elements or it can to lead us to something another harmful effect?
Just my experience, you end up with 10+ additional bottles and ICP tests to figure out what to dose… Not really fun for me…
 
Thus, we can additionally use K and S to replenish that elements or it can to lead us to something another harmful effect?

I cannot see a rationale to chase everything individually when using Balling Part C or AF mineral salt solves all of them at once without measuring them. At least the ion disruption issue.
 
Makes me wonder how balanced triton core7 actually is.
 
Just my experience, you end up with 10+ additional bottles and ICP tests to figure out what to dose… Not really fun for me…
What deficiency did you have except Potassium and Sulphur?
And now, using Classic version, do you dose the same or different quantities of each solution?
 

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