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But the required amount I heard was 1 lb per gallon? then again, that makes me wonder where all of that is going to be put :/Sry abt the one before I wasn't thinking do 100 not 1000
If u do 1000 lbs per gallon then where is everyone supposed to swimBut the required amount I heard was 1 lb per gallon? then again, that makes me wonder where all of that is going to be put :/
WAIT! Does live sand count towards this number?
Then edit your post. Its getting real hard to follow this thread with all the clutter, not to mention the op has to quote 15 posts to respond to you.Sry abt the one before I wasn't thinking do 100 not 1000
Ok look I'm sry for the clutter I didn't know u could edit but as for the tank this isn't a reef tank it's for horseshoe crabs and sharks or whatever other bottom dwelling creatures a large amount of LR won't allow them to comfortably move around on the sand bed with adequate space. true if he wants he can fill his sump or fuge with LR but it's just not practical to have so much LR in a non reef tank. I've seen it for rays where all the rock was put in this custom 100 gallon sump, where the water would flow threw it and back into the DT and all the bio filtration was done thereThen edit your post. Its getting real hard to follow this thread with all the clutter, not to mention the op has to quote 15 posts to respond to you.
Lad, I think that is a general and irrelevant guideline for a tank.
But in keeping with it...how much rock will be your sump... ive nearly got as much rock in my sump as i do in the tank lol. Im sure that counts
As I replied to @BoneXriffic you could make a custom 100 gallon plastic sump or fuge and put it in thereBut the required amount I heard was 1 lb per gallon? then again, that makes me wonder where all of that is going to be put :/
WAIT! Does live sand count towards this number?
This is absolutely wrong. You cannot "de barb" a ray. You can clip the barb which is somewhat cruel and stresses out the ray. And it would need to be cut on a bi-weekly-monthly basis. Not worth the hassle. Rays generally won't sting a shark anyways.You nailed this none good, also the rays can be debarbed...i think some pencils with be safe for all involved...with or without horseshoes
But the required amount I heard was 1 lb per gallon? then again, that makes me wonder where all of that is going to be put :/
WAIT! Does live sand count towards this number?
Arent the rays kept in the pet tanks at seaword and such clipped? Didnt realize they needed more than once. It seems sensable however that they main form of defense could regrow.This is absolutely wrong. You cannot "de barb" a ray. You can clip the barb which is somewhat cruel and stresses out the ray. And it would need to be cut on a bi-weekly-monthly basis. Not worth the hassle. Rays generally won't sting a shark anyways.
You want the least rock in the tank as possible. More swimming room the better. Id use as much rock as needed to make caves/hideaways in the tank. Rest of your biological should be in the sump.
Marinepure blocks (research leaching alum)
Pond matrix
Bio spira
Etc
All are very pourous material to maximize your available space.
Good skimmer is a must.
A tank that size a fluidized sand pool filter would be a nice option.
As well as a carbon tank.
Nitrate export will be your main goal. Lots of large water changes, macro algae etc.
1000g tank will need 200-300g water changes done constantly. Each water change will cost you 1-1.5 boxes of salt. Plus rodi.
Plus you need a water storage vat to mix that amount of saltwater in.
This size tank will require a substantial amount of money and commitment to build and maintain.
Arent the rays kept in the pet tanks at seaword and such clipped? Didnt realize they needed more than once. It seems sensable however that they main form of defense could regrow.
Yeah I am planning on making something like this with a whole lot of extremely porous rock. I'll put some live rock in there and turn it all into live rock. I'm actually considering using a barrel to do this, although that's problematic in many ways, so I might just stick to plastic.As I replied to @BoneXriffic you could make a custom 100 gallon plastic sump or fuge and put it in there
Yeah, I was pretty much aware of this. I'm one of those people who get worried about the off chances. Like it might not kill me getting stung, but what if a fish gets stung? So if I get a ray, I will be debarbing it.Yes, seaworld continuously maintians the barbs on their rays in the touch tanks. Doesnt mean it isnt stressful on the ray.
Not to mention, the people there are trained in doing this and the rays are used to getting it done constantly.
Now, take a wild caught ray, and a guy with no experience trim a rays barb, one of them is going to get hurt.
Ime urchin spines aren't as sharp as you think, and shark skin is much tougher than you think lol. I've stepped on urchins and they barely broke my skin. Idk about your sharks, but unless they're made to eat the urchins they probably won't.
This is absolutely wrong. You cannot "de barb" a ray. You can clip the barb which is somewhat cruel and stresses out the ray. And it would need to be cut on a bi-weekly-monthly basis. Not worth the hassle. Rays generally won't sting a shark anyways.
You want the least rock in the tank as possible. More swimming room the better. Id use as much rock as needed to make caves/hideaways in the tank. Rest of your biological should be in the sump.
Marinepure blocks (research leaching alum)
Pond matrix
Bio spira
Etc
All are very pourous material to maximize your available space.
Good skimmer is a must.
A tank that size a fluidized sand pool filter would be a nice option.
As well as a carbon tank.
Nitrate export will be your main goal. Lots of large water changes, macro algae etc.
1000g tank will need 200-300g water changes done constantly. Each water change will cost you 1-1.5 boxes of salt. Plus rodi.
Plus you need a water storage vat to mix that amount of saltwater in.
This size tank will require a substantial amount of money and commitment to build and maintain.
Good info. Ive kept a small ray once in an old 100gal by itself because of its barb...it was a rescue. Turned it over to a decent lfs after a few weeks of healingYes, seaworld continuously maintians the barbs on their rays in the touch tanks. Doesnt mean it isnt stressful on the ray.
Not to mention, the people there are trained in doing this and the rays are used to getting it done constantly.
Now, take a wild caught ray, and a guy with no experience trim a rays barb, one of them is going to get hurt.
Good info. Ive kept a small ray once in an old 100gal by itself because of its barb...it was a rescue. Turned it over to a decent lfs after a few weeks of healing
My bad, I meant trimming. I know you can't pull out their barbs, they would bleed to death. (Please tell me there's no one who would do that, PLEASE). I'm only considering trimming if I do get one. However, while I know it would be stressful for the animal, I'm not sure I want to rely on it being unlikely to sting its tankmates. I'm against animal cruelty, so if it really comes down to it, I simply won't get a ray, simple as that.I literally just said you cant debarb a ray and youre saying you would? Not even to mention the fact actual debarbing is impossible-but trimming the barb constantly is just cruel to the ray and you still want to do that....
And yes-with sharks, you need to do huge water changes constantly or nitrates will be through the roof. A full grown shark will EACH eat 3-6 medium frozen shrimp at feeding time. A 6" ray will eat a whole medium shrimp. Thats a TON of waste. And big water changes are necessary. Small couple gallon per day water changes like people do with reef tanks wont cut it. You need to do a large water change every 2 weeks.
14.2g per day water change over 14 days is not equivalent to a 200g water change at once.
Also-Food gets expensove quick. Price out bags of raw frozen foods. Youll go through a couple pounds a week with multiple sharks