Is that from the piece he had sitting on the top of the frag tank with the zoas?This coral hence forth shall be known as "Solar Flare".
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Is that from the piece he had sitting on the top of the frag tank with the zoas?This coral hence forth shall be known as "Solar Flare".
Is that from the piece he had sitting on the top of the frag tank with the zoas?
That thing looked amazing. I hope it does well for you!That would be it.
That thing looked amazing. I hope it does well for you!
Everything I have from his main tanks looked the same once they got used to my system. Everything I got from his frag runs have wildly morphed into something better (this is only 3 acros but still.). I think that one that you just got is a real gem. I am going to have to hit you up for some in the future.Me too. Looks like I've got better PE already than he did. It looked really good under his blues.
Everything I have from his main tanks looked the same once they got used to my system. Everything I got from his frag runs have wildly morphed into something better (this is only 3 acros but still.). I think that one that you just got is a real gem. I am going to have to hit you up for some in the future.
Nah. Ive been running SB Reef Lights since The end of December 2015.Sure! You are also running the Kessil also?
Nah. Ive been running SB Reef Lights since The end of December 2015.
Everything I have from his main tanks looked the same once they got used to my system. Everything I got from his frag runs have wildly morphed into something better (this is only 3 acros but still.). I think that one that you just got is a real gem. I am going to have to hit you up for some in the future.
The current equipment was assembled when my family moved across base into the new housing. This was Sept 16' and all the rock was in the same tank along with some of these current fish and corals.
I bought the tank and stand from an enlisted Navy guy who couldn't put it in his new 3rd floor apartment. Built as a peninsula tank, 180 gallons, star fire glass, the back and overflow sides painted black.
When I saw the new house I knew exactly what, how, and were the tank would go. The garage was directly behind a long wall, and there was a prefect area to set up my filtration. I wanted as much water volume as possible so bought a 100g Rubbermaid Stock tank as the main sump. My old sump, DIY 40 breeder would act as a remote fuge to grow cheato. I preferred this so that I could have full control and keep derby from going into main sump during maintenance.
I knew there would be a problem with keeping a skimmer in a large sump like this. Micro bubble, water level, and flow to/from skimmer was major concerns. I was lucky to find the perfect solution while at Lowes browsing late at night trying to get everything set up for the system. Rubbermaid Brute tote, I instantly knew this was the solution but unsure if I could get the plumbing right or even if my large 10" skimmer would even fit. I was able to raise and mount the tote on a shelf made of heavy duty steel brackets fastened to the wall. Plywood made the shelf and two 2X4's running long ways helped support it. For extra insurance I placed a brace in the front of the shelf to the floor. This made things very stable.
Plumbing was actually pretty easy, but I wanted to make sure I wouldn't have to cut a single line to disassemble. I used as many threaded fittings, adapters, and unions as possible most sch80 for durability and dependability. I am military and move a lot so making it easy to take a part is a must! Surprisingly I had only one minor leak after it was finished that I quickly found and fixed. 1 1/4" PVC used all around saved me head pressure and flow for my Reef Octopus RO-DC-5500 return pump. Just below the display the return is split and through two 1" bulkheads, then 1" silicon tubing into a 90 1"barb to 3/4" threaded into two more bulkheads inside the overflow. Then out two 3/4 loc-line into the display. Part of the flow is diverted into the remote fuge just above the lip of the main sump.
The drain starts in the overflow, 2" PVC Durso that is perfectly silent! This all flows into the Brute tote and the skimmer then gravity feed to the mainsump. This has worked perfectly.
Equipment:
Flow is one Vortech MP60 and one Tunze 6105 both controled via my APEX
Controller is APEX classic Gold, pH, ORP, Salinity, and Temp probes. I also have the Neptune PMK and WMX moduels, 3 each EB8's, and breakout cables. I can monitor my APEX 24/7 with a power line LAN access point that works great, a much much need upgrade from WiFi.
I bout this board to keep all my controller and pump controllers organized and easy access.
Lighting is two Kessil AP700s and a Hamilton 60" Aruba Sun T5 with ATI Blue Plus bulbs. T5s recently added (~4 weeks ago) to aid my center area where light is dimmer due to a large double pane glass center brace. I love the shimmer and colors of the Kessils, could not be happier with my choice for lighting.
Skimmer is a large 10" SRO-5000, a real work horse. Avast Swabbie neck Cleaner and a DIY Skimate locker with a float switch to alert me of it fills and shuts off the skimmer to prevent overflow.
My ATO is simple. 32 gallon Brute can and a BRS 50ml pump, controled via APEX it turns on 4mins every 1/2 hour. No switches or valves. Never had an over dose nor has it ever failed to run as programmed. I kept is simple to prevent the problems others have with Kalk and ATOs. Since evaporation is fixed I never have to adjust the time/amount added. This set up provides ultimate stability of both ALK/Cal and pH.
Recently my ALK demand has put paced the Kalk so small amounts of two part ALK/Cal are added every hour with two BRS 1.1ml pumps controled via APEX. I also add a small amount of vinegar every hour with a BRS 1.1 pump.
The main sump contains 3 MarinePure 4x8 blocks and about 50 pounds of LR.
Flow in the main sump is an MP10 controlled via WMX module, along with a RW-8 Jebao.
Two drains are required to keep the Skimmer tote water perfectly level. I can install a filter sock to one if i need to.
My Fuge is lite with a very powerful LED grow light. I added this only two weeks ago based on the BRS finding in their videos. It draws 132 watts, provides >1,000 PAR just under the water line!! It is solely responsible for driving down my NO3 from 20ppm to 4 in just two weeks and PO4 .09 to .03 in the same time.
I run a BRS dual reactor for BRS ROX .8 carbon. The first chamber is used only as a sediment filter and extended the flow life of the carbon from 2-3 weeks to now I can run it as long as I like without prematurely clogging. No longer need GFO with the cheato now doing so well but I have plenty.
Live stock:
Magnificent Fox Face
Blue Tang
Yellow Tang
Copperband Butterfly fish
Mated File fish
Chromis
Extreme Ultra Picasso Clown
Coral Beauty Dwarf Angel
Kaudern's Cardinalfish
2 Large Beautiful Serpent Star Fish one Super Red and the other purple with stripes. My wife says they are crappy but I love them. Unique to me because I don't see them often in other systems.
Peppermint shrimp
Few snails and hermits
Coral:
Lots of SPS, acros and Montis mostly.
Toxic Green Hammer with Purple tips
Varios Acans and Zoas
I have a DIY battery backup for the MP60 to keep flow in the display during power outages. Optima Red Top battery with a BatteryMINDer automatic battery charger/maintainer. Ordered a Vortech battery backup cable, installed two eyelets and applied it to the battery. This will provide more than 2 days of continuous backup power!!! It's already been very very useful, there have been several power outages as they preform more construction in the area for new housing. Outages have been as long as 8-12 hours. Thankful I made it a priority to build and install.
I feed a lot. Ehiem autofeeder adds pellets twice a day. Pellets are a mix of Hikari Marine A, S, Seaweed Extreme, and NLS. I also feed nori and PE mysis daily.
Corals are target fed a few times a week with BRS Reef Chilli.
Dats some nassty stuff!I clean my skimmer each week without fail. In just 7 days it gets nasty!
In a week it collects about an 1.5-2" of black liquid plus whatever solids remain in the cup.
This is the heart, I couldn't imagine not having one. I believe this 10" skimmer is the perfect size for the system and my feeding habits.
All clean
I also change ~55 gallons each week or 20%.
This also is important to me, helps ensure water quality. Salt is cheap and so is the water, so why not.
I make the only the best quality water I can. BRS 6 stage water saver plus system, all upgrades from standard 4 stage.
When it comes to filter changes I don't guess, I test. This is the only way to ensure the best water quality.
I use these strips to test for chlorine in waste water. If I get any reading I know the first stage carbon is done and put the second into the first stage. Then a new one goes into the second. Only BRS 1 micron carbon blocks for me, I have not seen another that has as much carbon in it as the BRS.
I have 130-140 TDS in and 1 out of the RO before DI. I change sediment filter when pressure drops 3-5%. My normal pressure is 60 psi.
I change the fist DI when I see any TDS. Then perform the same method as the carbons. First is out, second goes to the first place and new in the second.
These methods work well for me because it ensures water quality while getting every drop out of each filter.