Bubble tip anemone

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selvin

selvin

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I understand what you mean. maybe ask them for a light you want and see if they can get it? Also, some of these light companies will or may try to import for you. It's a hassle I know :(
Have to check with them again or let someone returning from US get it for me.... current situation the second option is best for me but will take some time.
 

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This isn't easy for sure. But, don't limit yourself there. These are not live goods, so people will work with you on shipping.
 

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I have tried here but they always recommend some unknown lights which they sell which they don't even know the par or power consumption or the imported ones are ridiculously over priced....like 3x the price...
Or...build the rock up in your tank to move closer to light source. Just a thought. Your current light may be perfectly fine. You wouldn't know for sure without a par meter.
 

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Or...build the rock up in your tank to move closer to light source. Just a thought. Your current light may be perfectly fine. You wouldn't know for sure without a par meter.
Even if you don't physically move him, he would have an option of getting closer to the light.
 

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Does look like an LTA but likely a bubbletip- They DO need to be fed.
They’re fairly low maintenance and they can add a really neat look to your tank. Bubble Tip Anemone care requires you to have a strong understanding of these invertebrates if you want them to thrive. They’re not as easy to own as many people think. Thanks to the symbiotic relationship they form with certain fish, they are a joy to watch and care for. This species splits and propagates very easily in the right conditions, resulting in large captive populations.
The length of the tentacles can vary. The same goes for the size and shape of the bulb. With some specimens, the bulb is accompanied by a small tip. Interestingly enough, the tentacles can change based on the anemone’s environment. Below the splay of tentacles is the anemone’s foot. The foot is delicate. Yet, it has simple muscle fibers that help the creature move and anchor onto rocks.
Rose Bubble Tip Anemones are, by far, the most common type you’ll see on the market. They’re prolific propagators, which undoubtedly contributes to their popularity. This type is quite affordable and is a good option for first-time anemone owners. Rainbow bubble Tip Anemone that’s usually considered to be exotic. They’re rarer than standard Rose varieties and their pricing usually reflects that. The base of the Rainbow Bubble Tip Anemone is vibrant neon blue. This color gradually fades into a rose color on the tips of the tentacles.
Green Bubble Tip Anemones are fairly common. Like the Rose variety, these anemones are quite affordable and readily available in the trade.
Many new and seasoned aquarists dream of owning these invertebrates. But proper Bubble Tip Anemone care requires a bit of work to keep these creatures healthy! In short, we usually don’t recommend them for first-time aquarists. Having thorough knowledge about these animals is a must. The invertebrates are sensitive to water changes and require pristine conditions to stay in good shape. Failing to meet their needs can result in early death and damage to the tank environment as a whole. Yes, getting caught in a power head is a concern but rarely occurs. I have 6 (which time to sell a couple of them and none have ever left their spot in the tank.
The most important thing you’ll need to take care of before you bring your anemone home is perfecting the tank and water conditions. You should never place a Bubble Tip Anemone into a tank you just set up.
Take some time to get parameters just right and let the closed environment cycle for a few months. This ensures that conditions are stable and safe. Bubble Tip Anemones prefer warmer temperatures. Water should be on the alkali side as well. Monitor water conditions regularly to avoid any major changes. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be undetectable at all times using a good quality test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.
  • Water temperature: Between 77°F and 82°F (stay close to the middle of this range)
  • pH level: 8.1 to 8.4
  • Water hardness: 8 to 12 dKH
  • Specific gravity: 1.024 to 1.025
  • Nitrate < .5
When you first introduce the anemone to the tank, turn down any pumps. The flow should be minimal until the anemone gets settled in. Chances are, your new Bubble Tip Anemone will move around the tank until it finds a suitable spot to call home.
If it starts to move towards any coral, simply direct your water jets to the coral. This will discourage the anemone from anchoring near it. It will move to another area to attach.
Bubble Tip Anemone lighting is a very important aspect of their care. These creatures need a lot of light to truly thrive because they’re photosynthetic. Basically, that means that they absorb light to make food and grow. The anemone has zooxanthellae in its body, which are symbiotic microorganisms they feed on. Without proper lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae and turn white. This process is called bleaching and often leads to death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended. Many aquarists agree that too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your jets at the anemone. The creatures enjoy subtle movement at all times. But too much direct flow hitting the anemone will force it to move.
Lastly- Feeding.
Bubble Tip Anemones feeding is one of the easiest parts of their care. These animals get food from a lot of different sources. As mentioned earlier, they are photosynthetic and use light to create food. They will also eat food off of the fish they host. These anemones enjoy small morsels of shrimp and squid. They will also accept many frozen foods. To feed the anemone, attach the food to a stick or large tweezers. Then, touch the anemone with it. The creature will use its tentacles to grab onto the food and consume it. twice a week feedings is ample.
 

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Rockwork
 

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One thing I have heard about is flow. If it’s directly under a power head or there is way to much flow they will stretch out. It’s not always the light but honestly that is a good go too but honestly we need some serious reefers who can do some more experiments with these amazing creatures! I am waiting on 4 RBTA’s rn and will hopefully be able to start some testing of my own!
 
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selvin

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One thing I have heard about is flow. If it’s directly under a power head or there is way to much flow they will stretch out. It’s not always the light but honestly that is a good go too but honestly we need some serious reefers who can do some more experiments with these amazing creatures! I am waiting on 4 RBTA’s rn and will hopefully be able to start some testing of my own!
I have kept a power head opposite to the nem to see if i can get a moderate flow to it, flow or not its the same.
 

agame2021

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I have kept a power head opposite to the nem to see if i can get a moderate flow to it, flow or not its the same.
No it’s more about how high the power head is set. It’s like when you get a new fish that is a bit weak and it needs less flow while it heals or it will get sucked into the powerhead(this has happened to me) but the video I watched it was a BTA and clownfish harem tank. They had the flow super high and they had all stretched out to like 8-10 inches long+. It might just be tired.

again this is my speculation but I am going to be running some tests of my own shortly.
 

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The issue is I am from India and we don't get many choices like you guys do
I am from India, i got three while i could lol. there's the newer v3 ones in india too. Just get a spectra/hipergero 30w from amazon India, would be more than fine for a bta. cheers
 

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Id wager its just low light, don't point the powerhead on him. try not to bother him too much. check your parameters and temp.
we have it bad here in India is a joke tbh.
 
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I am from India, i got three while i could lol. there's the newer v3 ones in india too. Just get a spectra/hipergero 30w from amazon India, would be more than fine for a bta. cheers
Did a water change and reduced the salinity to 1.020 from 1.023, fed him a little and turned off the power head for a day....and for the first time he seems to be all settled up and looks bubbly as he should be.....what a relief..
 
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Hello all thank you everyone for your feedback. Looks like I wasn't feeding him enough so I started feeding him a little bit more and he was good all curled up until a week ago when he started moving. Got out of the rock and towards the top and all of a sudden today he split never expected to see him do that...it's just wonderful to see him do that....

The last pic was before the moving and splitting.
 

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