I got a reply from them saying 108W, using the 36 LEDs x 3W/LED calculaton. I clarified in a few ways that I was asking about the “actual” wattage from the wall, and am awaiting a response. I’ve used “165 watt” eBay fixtures that pull 50w, so I am cautious of this. A 3W led is only so good if your are giving it 1W for heat purposes, to maintain a sexy slim (and inexpensive) heatsink.
Buy Today! THE NEW Orphek OR 120/ 90 /60 - Bars LED Lights
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I got a reply from them saying 108W, using the 36 LEDs x 3W/LED calculaton. I clarified in a few ways that I was asking about the “actual” wattage from the wall, and am awaiting a response. I’ve used “165 watt” eBay fixtures that pull 50w, so I am cautious of this. A 3W led is only so good if your are giving it 1W for heat purposes, to maintain a sexy slim (and inexpensive) heatsink.
OR 120 UV/Violet draws around 70 watts from the wall (according the Apex).
120 is 36 leds; 90 has 24 leds -- I don't want to assume anything as I don't have OR 90s in UV/Violet in stock to test; but hopefully that gives you an idea.
FWIW, it's actually pretty dang bright for a "UV" bar, because Orphek, smartly placed the lighter blue bulbs in there as well, which help give the brightness along with the pop.
Hope that helps!
That does help, thanks! Interesting about seeing lighter blue in there, or it being "bright" to the eye. Based on the LED layout they have on Pg. 1, of 410 and 430nm, I am surprised to hear that it you see a lighter blue. 430nm is on the lowest end of "Blue", pretty much indigo at that point.
when I said lighter, I meant lighter than the other bulbs on that bar
not like a super light blue. I'll try to take pics if I get a chance later tonight, but might be easier watching this video:
Blue sky received to compliment the UV and 8 bulb t5. Very pleased!! Better pics to follow soon
It would definitely depend on what I was looking to achieve and what I would be supplementing or making it a primary source. As a primary, the BlueSky is phenomenal. As supplemental to an already standing blue spectrum, the UV is great. It is a bit more subtle of a accent than the blue in my opinion. But once the primary lights are off, creates a whole new look. If I were to only pick one, I would probably change the spectrum of the t5 to a more white balance and accent with the blue sky. But, for my application, I believe I have exactly what is needed.
P-Dub
The ocean is open to all, merciful to none.
True true. Let us know what they say. I am torn between the Orphek and the SB Reeflighs Sbar. I like the wavelengths of the Orphek but the lack of dimming and not knowing the true wattage as well as who the maker of the actual diodes is. I also like the customization of the choice of LEDs on the Orphek. I also would like to know how we should measure exactly to determine which lenses to use. I assume the measurements are from the bottom of the tank to the glass lens cover but I hate assuming.
All your questions are answered on their own site which is in the first post I believe
24", 36", 48"
55w, 78w, 110w
60, 90, 120° optics
SBar sucks, they admitted it doesn't put out half the power thats advertised, and people are speculating they no longer exist as a company due to never answering anything for months on end now.
Like everyone. Orphek has proprietary stuff. Ecotech isn't upfront with their diodes or their exact nm range either, this is 100% common and expected.
P-Dub
The ocean is open to all, merciful to none.
@Rakie Thanks for the info but I would like to know where you got that info as it is decidedly not on the website nor the first page, not at least anywhere that I can easily find. It does not indicate the wattage nor the true wattage though I think that we have come to a safe estimate on what the true wattage likely is. It does not indicate how the measurements are taken for making a choice on which lens to use it only reference "Water Depth". Am I to assume that is the depth of the water if the lights are placed at some arbitrary height? I just would like clarification on that. Seeing as you know more than what I am able to glean from the Orphek site or this thread I would greatly appreciate the info I am requesting and where you got that. While "SBars suck" is not a generally quantifiable statement but rather an opinion and it is not very helpful. I have found the Sbox a capable light in its own right hence the reasoning for considering that brand for a LED bar supplement light. We all are aware that there is wattage loss due to heat. If the 120 pulls 70 watts as @Reef Bazaar has stated, that would be an approximate 25% loss which is certainly better than "less than half" that you purport the SBars put out but I still don't know where you got your wattage numbers for the Orphek or where you got your underperforming wattage numbers for the SBar. I do my best to make decisions based on quantifiable information and not hearsay or anecdotal evidence though sometimes we just don't get all the info we would like. So, in closing, I am eager to hear any info that you have and some way that I can verify. Thanks again.
It was directly posted a long time ago, maybe they did remove it because people are demanding dimming fixtures, which they say will lower power by 20%. Or perhaps there was an inconsistency. But it absolutely was in the very first post, but is no longer there.
"our 120 108w 48" fixture" <--- LINK from a different thread
Orphek confirming all LED's are driven at 3 watts <--- Link
Originally all LED bars were rated at each diode being driven at 3W -- they removed that information as it is now changing. That's why nobody was bawking at this. The numbers were posted not long ago.
Above someone is saying their Apex is rating the 120 at 70 watts. I've heard the Apex isn't exactly great at that though so it could be off.
Sbar reported it themselves in their "updating the sbar thread". They stated their power supplies were not what they were being told they were, and that they were extremely under-driven.
"our 120 108w 48" fixture" <--- LINK from a different thread
Orphek confirming all LED's are driven at 3 watts <--- Link
Originally all LED bars were rated at each diode being driven at 3W -- they removed that information as it is now changing. That's why nobody was bawking at this. The numbers were posted not long ago.
Above someone is saying their Apex is rating the 120 at 70 watts. I've heard the Apex isn't exactly great at that though so it could be off.
Sbar reported it themselves in their "updating the sbar thread". They stated their power supplies were not what they were being told they were, and that they were extremely under-driven.
P-Dub
The ocean is open to all, merciful to none.
Great info thank you. still left in much the same position. Would really like to get the lens bit cleared up. Where is the "updating the sbar thread"? A search of R2R yields no results. Has anyone thrown a Kill A Watt power meter on these bars?
sawdonkey
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I have two V4s and I’m thinking about putting a strip across the front of my tank for wider coverage. I don’t like my fish and corals looking back-Lit. My tank is a 210 that’s 30 inches tall and my V4s are about ten inches off the water. What would you do, 120’s or 90’s?
PerplexyHexy
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Im gonna be using this 48” Aquatic Life two bulb t5/mh lamp... the t5 bulbs do absolutely nothing on this fixture with the mh lamps on... so im looking to get supplemental led bars to add to this fixture... Im already using actinic sbars on my 36” ati fixture and wanted to try something different on my larger frag tank... what would you suggest would be a good combo to add to that fixture?
PerplexyHexy
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OP
OP
About Watt , one client can get one number other client can get other number .
The volt can be change from one to other .
The number of watts is equal to amps multiplied by volts.
The volt can be change from one to other .
The number of watts is equal to amps multiplied by volts.
OP
OP
Yes somthing around .
We up the power factor of the driver so the watt get much lower ,so we took out the watt from the site not to give worng number
but same output .
A power factor of 1 means the load is purely resistive and the power is consumed 100%. If there is a reactive load (inductive or capacitive) the power factor is less than 1 which mean there is some powerloses.
For example if power factor is 0.5 then you change to 0.95
So if light was before ~110v it can go to ~70w
So the high power factor is better .
Also before we use one driver for every spectrum
So if client got 1x uV and 1x blue and he was change by mistake the driver the light could flicker .
So we reduced littel the watt and change the driver for wider range .
To reduce problems.
We up the power factor of the driver so the watt get much lower ,so we took out the watt from the site not to give worng number
but same output .
A power factor of 1 means the load is purely resistive and the power is consumed 100%. If there is a reactive load (inductive or capacitive) the power factor is less than 1 which mean there is some powerloses.
For example if power factor is 0.5 then you change to 0.95
So if light was before ~110v it can go to ~70w
So the high power factor is better .
Also before we use one driver for every spectrum
So if client got 1x uV and 1x blue and he was change by mistake the driver the light could flicker .
So we reduced littel the watt and change the driver for wider range .
To reduce problems.
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