Casa Magellan

living_tribunal

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The price of torches has come down since Indo opened back up. $500 torches two months ago are going for $150 now and will continue to fall, to the disdain of every person that was price gouging them before who said "the price is never coming back down."


Dragon souls are the new tout de joure
 
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Magellan

Magellan

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First Acro went into the tank today, thanks @Jose Esteves !! Great looking healthy frag of Oregon Tort.
777FE4FE-E65D-41B8-A07C-6D3D4BF11C87.jpeg
49FE4C82-695B-4D87-971E-D6C26CB54566.jpeg


880FA112-EF3F-4FD5-A393-CC5037443DC8.jpeg
 
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Magellan

Magellan

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Very nice very nice
Thanks! The purple hammer was my first frag, and tried really really hard to be my first coral that died...but I brought it back from the dead and it’s got a lot more color now than when I got it! Finally started splitting too :)
 

crusso1993

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Can you share any pearls of wisdom on your Goniopora? It looks amazing and I know you worked really hard to achieve that. I think mine is surviving, but definitely not thriving.

Coming here asking this guy for "pearls of wisdom"? Holy moly! You must really be hurting! ;Hilarious ;) ;Hilarious
 

New&no clue

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Coming here asking this guy for "pearls of wisdom"? Holy moly! You must really be hurting! ;Hilarious ;) ;Hilarious

Lol I'm new I'll take pearls from whoever is giving them out... honestly I'll take a rock of wisdom as well if you have any.
 

crusso1993

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Lol I'm new I'll take pearls from whoever is giving them out... honestly I'll take a rock of wisdom as well if you have any.

My pebble of wisdom is to steer clear of this thread! Lol

I leave any input on your Goni to the GoniMeister, as you originally requested, but will say that, as I'm sure you know, solid consistency is a big key in this hobby. Even if your parameters aren't "perfect". I never was a big numbers chaser as much as I was a consistency chaser.

I'll be looking forward to what Mr. Ferdinand has to say for you!
 
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Can you share any pearls of wisdom on your Goniopora? It looks amazing and I know you worked really hard to achieve that. I think mine is surviving, but definitely not thriving.
You aren’t exaggerating at all! It’s routine now, but oh man was this thing doing its best to give me grey hairs...

first off, what kind do you have? More photosynthetic species seem to enjoy higher light and flow, like what @living_tribunal has in his tank. (I think those are Australian). Mine comes from Indonesia, and it’s natural habitat is low par, gentle flow, and available food supply. I didn’t have consistent success until I happened to see one in a video that Jake Adams posted of him diving in the ocean. There was a huge Goni colony in one of his shots (a Stokesi just like mine) and it was barely getting any flow at all, and was sort of in a crevice and not getting much light either. I immediately changed my flow to give it the least amount possible, and it started coming out more and more. Didn’t move it to the bottom of the tank until much later, but it should have always been there (much happier with low light, similar to my Ricordea Yumas in that regard). Was slowly beginning to lose color on the side closest to the light before finally my urchin (clearly smarter than I am!) knocked it off it’s original perch.

However, it’s relatively easy to give one low light and low flow. (Even if it took me a while to figure that out!) The key is to FEED it, specifically a mixture of phyto and meaty foods. Species like this are filter feeders, in the wild they are getting regular meals of phytoplankton. I give my tank a daily broadcast of Reef Nutritions Phyto-Feast Live, and later in the day Oyster Feast as well. Sometimes reef roids too, but not very frequently for those. I used to target feed, but my cleaner shrimp would relentlessly steal food from it and I felt like that was doing more harm than good. If I broadcast the shrimp can’t find a source :)

I also turn my flow off when I feed frozen mysis, and I always make sure that some gets to the Goni as well. You will know it’s eating if it shrinks to about half size. If you target feed, make sure the food floats onto it rather than getting launched, or it will close up as a defense mechanism.

my tank definitely took some time to adjust to the extra and regular feedings. I had to add biomedia and phosguard, but surprisingly I don’t have any issues with algae, nitrates, or phosphates. Not running a skimmer helps as well imo, or at least turning the skimmer off when you feed. Preferably for the entire photo period - if the Goni is extended, it’s trying to filter the water for food! Dosing amino acids helps as well. There is a trace element, Manganese, that is really useful for LPS like these (your hammers/euphyllia will benefit also). It is in products like Fuel, and pretty much anything else that contains trace element additives. Even my Reef Fusion 2 part has it.

most importantly: (and this is almost redundant) STABILITY! obviously all corals benefit from stability, but this one is sensitive enough that if it’s happy I know I don’t need to check my water. I call it my tank barometer, I look at it and know immediately if everything is good :)

another thing that might not seem obvious is temperature. It’s happier in warmer water, (Indonesia = warm water!) I let my tank get as hot as 79.5 during the day. At night 77.5, but then let it warm up and my Goni will come out more and more. If I felt like my corals and fish were fine with it I would let it get warmer than that!

Edit: just realized I spent 20 minutes typing out a post and didn't specifically address a single parameter other than temperature. I try to keep my tank close to NSW levels, and my corals are happy. But many tanks with many different levels are happy, and I don’t think the specific numbers matter as much as keeping those numbers the same. @crusso1993 is right at least as often as a broken clock ;)
 
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crusso1993

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You aren’t exaggerating at all! It’s routine now, but oh man was this thing doing its best to give me grey hairs...

first off, what kind do you have? More photosynthetic species seem to enjoy more light and flow, like what @living_tribunal has in his tank. (I think those are Australian). Mine comes from Indonesia, and it’s natural habit is low par, gentle flow, and available food supply. I didn’t have consistent success until I happened to see one in a video that Jake Adams posted of him diving in the ocean. There was a huge Goni colony in one of his shots (a Stokesi just like mine) and it was barely getting any flow at all, and was sort of in a crevice and not getting much light either. I immediately changed my flow to give it the least amount possible, and it started coming out more and more. Didn’t move it to the bottom of the tank until much later, but it should have always been there (much happier with low light, similar to my Ricordea Yumas in that regard). Was slowly beginning to lose color on the side closest to the light before finally my urchin (clearly smarter than I am!) knocked it off it’s original perch.

However, it’s relatively easy to give one low light and low flow. (Even if it took me a while to figure that out!) The key is to FEED it, specifically a mixture of phyto and meaty foods. Species like this are filter feeders, in the wild they are getting regular meals of phytoplankton. I give my tank a daily broadcast of Reef Nutritions Phyto-Feast Live, and later in the day Oyster Feast as well. Sometimes reef roids too, but not very frequently for those. I used to target feed, but my cleaner shrimp would relentlessly steal food from it and I felt like that was doing more harm than good. If I broadcast the shrimp can’t find a source :)

I also turn my flow off when I feed frozen mysis, and I always make sure that some gets to the Goni as well. You will know it’s eating if it shrinks to about half size. If you target feed, make sure the food floats onto it rather than getting launched, or it will close up as a defense mechanism.

my tank definitely took some time to adjust to the extra and regular feedings. I had to add biomedia and phosguard, but surprisingly I don’t have any issues with algae, nitrates, or phosphates. Not running a skimmer helps as well imo, or at least turning the skimmer off when you feed. Preferably for the entire photo period - if the Goni is extended, it’s trying to filter the water for food! Dosing amino acids helps as well. There is a trace element, Manganese, that is really useful for LPS like these (your hammers/euphyllia will benefit also). It is in products like Fuel, and pretty much anything else that contains trace element additives. Even my Reef Fusion 2 part has it.

most importantly: (and this is almost redundant) STABILITY! obviously all corals benefit from stability, but this one is sensitive enough that if it’s happy I know I don’t need to check my water. I call it my tank barometer, I look at it and know immediately if everything is good :)

another thing that might not seem obvious is temperature. It’s happier in warmer water, (Indonesia = warm water!) I let my tank get as hot as 79.5 during the day. At night 77.5, but then let it warm up and my Goni will come out more and more. If I felt like my corals and fish were fine with it I would let it get warmer than that!

Edit: just realized I spent 20 minutes typing out a post and didn't specifically address a single parameter other than temperature. I try to keep my tank close to NSW levels, and my corals are happy. But many tanks with many different levels are happy, and I don’t think the specific numbers matter as much as keeping those numbers the same. @crusso1993 is right at least as often as a broken clock ;)

Hey, thanks for giving me a call out about being right. I know how hard that must have been for you! :p
 
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Magellan

Magellan

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Cool. Are you feeding it to the hammer? ;Hilarious
Only if it dies ;)

it has plenty of room don’t worry. Plus I glued it to a snail shell first, and then glued the shell to the rock just in case I do need to move it at some point.
 

ScottR

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Only if it dies ;)

it has plenty of room don’t worry. Plus I glued it to a snail shell first, and then glued the shell to the rock just in case I do need to move it at some point.
Collect all of your sissy sticks (poop coral guy’s name for SPS) and make a calcium reactor.
 

High pressure shells: Do you look for signs of stress in the invertebrates in your reef tank?

  • I regularly look for signs of invertebrate stress in my reef tank.

    Votes: 5 23.8%
  • I occasionally look for signs of invertebrate stress in my reef tank.

    Votes: 8 38.1%
  • I rarely look for signs of invertebrate stress in my reef tank.

    Votes: 4 19.0%
  • I never look for signs of invertebrate stress in my reef tank.

    Votes: 4 19.0%
  • Other.

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