Chaeto not growing

[hart24601]

ChaetoGro was talked about, which contains Iron, but I'm not sure its enough. 0.23% by weight along with other metals and potassium. The only time I have ever had issues with Chaeto not growing, but rather crumbling was with low flow. This stuff really loves flow and seams to be invincible otherwise, unless you kill it with chemicals or it runs out of nitrates. If nitrates are low and its not growing, that's not a problem, that's just equilibrium in action.

I don’t really like talking up products, but I can’t lie either, I did nothing but add chaetogro after 3 attempts of growing and having it fall apart over time with 0 other changes and it grows like crazy since then. I have awc with instant ocean but it clearly didn’t provide enough “whatever” my system was missing. I’m sure there are a ton of other products or diy that would work too, but dang it made a crazy difference without any changes in flow or lighting for me.

 

[Subsea]

ChaetoGrow works. Of course it’s a blended cocktail. If one wants to be more scientific, then get CPI test and you will know which trace minerals are required. In tanks I want more growth but not more fish. I add ammonia with ChaetoGrow. I figure phosphate comes in with the air..

 

[hart24601]

I should add that in my system if I notice my phosphates outpacing nitrates I will add a pinch of dry ammonia right on top of the chaeto ball! I don’t recommend people do this, but it works for me. I used to Jane ammonia on a dosing pump but that was for my clams which I donated to my local zoo as they didn’t have any.

 

[anthonyt987]

so whats the consensus lol

24/7 unhealthy or ??

 

[ClownWrangler]

so whats the consensus lol

24/7 unhealthy or ??

There is no consensus. This is one of those things reefers will forever disagree on. I run mine 24/7 and nitrates are always near zero. I tried 12 on 12 off and nitrates went up to 40ppm. But I have a tiny light. I would say it depends on the demand of your system. If nitrates are rising too fast, run it 24/7. If you have enough chaeto going to control nitrates with fewer hours on, then reduce the hours and keep the light on at night to minimize pH swings. Its not getting too much light unless it turns white.

Also, At the beginning you mentioned adding fluconazole. Are you sure its all out of your system? I don't know much about that stuff, but if it kills bryopsis, it will surely harm chaeto. My understanding is that it inhibits photosynthesis somehow. I could be wrong

I also just did some research on Vibrant. Nasty stuff. It kills Chaeto and works with some sort of bacteria. This may be far fetched, but maybe that bacteria established itself somehow. I'm going to assume you are not still using it. If you haven't done a major water change after using those products, it may be a good idea.

 

[anthonyt987]

There is no consensus. This is one of those things reefers will forever disagree on. I run mine 24/7 and nitrates are always near zero. I tried 12 on 12 off and nitrates went up to 40ppm. But I have a tiny light. I would say it depends on the demand of your system. If nitrates are rising too fast, run it 24/7. If you have enough chaeto going to control nitrates with fewer hours on, then reduce the hours and keep the light on at night to minimize pH swings. Its not getting too much light unless it turns white.

Also, At the beginning you mentioned adding fluconazole. Are you sure its all out of your system? I don't know much about that stuff, but if it kills bryopsis, it will surely harm chaeto. My understanding is that it inhibits photosynthesis somehow. I could be wrong

I also just did some research on Vibrant. Nasty stuff. It kills Chaeto and works with some sort of bacteria. This may be far fetched, but maybe that bacteria established itself somehow. I'm going to assume you are not still using it. If you haven't done a major water change after using those products, it may be a good idea.

should be out of the system by now, I run carbon and have a skimmer. Probably have done 8 wc since then as well

My nitrates are never over 15ppm
My issue is phosphates, last I checked a week ago it was .33 but I havent had chaeto that was living lol I checked and it was all stringy mushy but I got some more chaeto to try out today

 

[Subsea]

I skimmed this thread, so my apologies if I missed something, but Iron is a key that most people miss. Mine grows out of the tank and I find all of this to work great... not too high of N or P, iron dosing or water changes (for iron), low flow in the fuge, prune it. I use 12 hour lighting, but I also had good results when using more. Mine slows down when I don't prune it or I go a while without changing water or adding iron.

You can growth inhibit all macro with higher levels of N and P and chaeto seems to slow down about .2-.25P.. not stop, but slow down. N seems to need to be above 50 to make a huge dent. You can bet that it grows a lot faster with lower levels. Unlike corals (microalgae) that mostly cannot really use nitrate without converting it, macro can use it directly.

@Lasse
in the case of Macroalgae, it was my understanding that high concentrations of any one mineral/nutrient would not inhibit macro growth, only low concentration of required nutrients Inhibit macro growth.
*Note: I am only familiar with calcification of hard corals suffering from high phosphate concentrations.

In one case, I spilled a cup of ferric iron in a grow out tank of Gracilaria Hayi. Some years back I read an article by @Randy Holmes-Farley on iron storage mechanisms of macro algae. The spill of 500 ml of Seachem ferric iron in a 55G tank colored water red. Water color cleared in 3 days. Gracilaria Hayi went from thin & slightly brittle with calcium to thick and somewhat spongy with iron.

If your Chaeto is not emerald green and leans toward yellow, if needs iron.

 

[Lasse]

n the case of Macroalgae, it was my understanding that high concentrations of any one mineral/nutrient would not inhibit macro growth, only low concentration of required nutrients Inhibit macro growth.

It my experiences too but you need a CUC if you get what we name "slick" (Cladophora glomerata) on the macros - which can happen if nutrient levels is too high

Sincerely Lasse

 

[anthonyt987]

should I start off with a smaller portion to see if it grows?

 

[Subsea]

should I start off with a smaller portion to see if it grows?

so just set it opposite to the DT schedule?

Anthony,
you have a very small refugium in your AIO. I read your tank thread.

For what purpose, do you expect your macro refugium to perform?

If phosphate is your concern, then get phosphate removal resin.

If you want to grow Chaeto, without doing ICP test than get ChaetoGrow and also consider dosing iron.

If you want to be precise, than get ICP test and follow their recommendation.


PS: I am old school nutrient management that relys on nutrient recycling. The corals in your display are an integral part of your biofiltration and from reading
Your test numbers, it’s doing a good job.

I suggest your macro refugium is too small in your AIO to effect much. Instead, operate it as a cryptic refugium. In my experiences, Cryptic sponges would assist your system more than an algae refugium.

On such a small tank, partial water changes should be sufficient.