Converting Outlet in Laundry Room to Accommodate RO pump

KStatefan

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I happen to have my 2020 NEC in front of me.... It's based on not overloading the circuit since the water heaters in some washing machines can pull more than 15A so having another load could easily exceed the 80% limit. Built in microwaves have a similar requirement.

2010.11 (C) 2 Laundry Branch Circuits. In addition to the number of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at least one additional 20A branch circuit shall be provided to supply the laundry receptacle outlet(s) required by 210.52(F). This circuit shall have no other outlets.

Does that apply to all circuits in the laundry room?
 

KStatefan

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I am very ill versed in residential code but I believe at least one ded per code in laundry room.

From his pictures it looks like he has two one for the washer and one for the dryer. I did not know if he could switch out the one that the dryer is plugged into since it is a 20 amp also. I have not had to do much code research at work in awhile so I am not current either.
 

olonmv

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From his pictures it looks like he has two one for the washer and one for the dryer. I did not know if he could switch out the one that the dryer is plugged into since it is a 20 amp also. I have not had to do much code research at work in awhile so I am not current either.
They definitely went above and beyond. They did that as well in my house.
 

DaneGer21

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Code or not. Swap out the single 120v outlet with a new double outlet and new face cover.

If you are worried about code issues, it is an easy fix to swap back to a single, PLUS, there will never be a code issue unless you go to sell your home; and again, even if the inspector finds it, it’s a 5min swap.

PS, kill the breaker before you swap it out
 

Brew12

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Does that apply to all circuits in the laundry room?
No, it only applies the the receptacle for the washing machine

Junk drawer never fails!
From the looks of it, that splitter is rated at no more than 15A. Did you verify your washing machine uses less than 15A?
 
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flyfisher2

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I happen to have my 2020 NEC in front of me.... It's based on not overloading the circuit since the water heaters in some washing machines can pull more than 15A so having another load could easily exceed the 80% limit. Built in microwaves have a similar requirement.

2010.11 (C) 2 Laundry Branch Circuits. In addition to the number of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at least one additional 20A branch circuit shall be provided to supply the laundry receptacle outlet(s) required by 210.52(F). This circuit shall have no other outlets.
So should I just leave the adaptor plugged on as I showed in the pic?
 

KStatefan

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No, it only applies the the receptacle for the washing machine


From the looks of it, that splitter is rated at no more than 15A. Did you verify your washing machine uses less than 15A?

So switching the one that the dryer is plugged in would be good to switch to a duplex.
 
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flyfisher2

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image.jpg
 

Brew12

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So switching the one that the dryer is plugged in would be good to switch to a duplex.
I didn't notice that there were 2 separate 120V outlets, completely missed that. Yes, it would be fine to switch the one for the dryer. A 120V dedicated dryer circuit should never be required. If a dryer is electric, it will need the 220V outlet. If it is gas, the electric is categorized as a small appliance which do not require dedicated outlets.
So should I just leave the adaptor plugged on as I showed in the pic?
Since your washer only pulls a max of 10A it should be fine as is, as long as that splitter is rated for 15A. If you don't know the splitter rating, I'd replace it with a new one, they are cheap. Just keep in mind if you replace your washing machine you may need to change how you connect this. The easiest change would be to switch it from your washing machine to where your dryer plugs in.
 
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flyfisher2

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From his pictures it looks like he has two one for the washer and one for the dryer. I did not know if he could switch out the one that the dryer is plugged into since it is a 20 amp also. I have not had to do much code research at work in awhile so I am not current either.
I have two 20’s one behind the washer and one behind the dryer
In addition to the 220 and the gas connection
 

olonmv

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ultimately, if it was me needing this in my house, I’d convert the dryer outlet to (2) ded 20a outlets and replace the breaker to a 2-pole 20a gfci breaker. The wiring within the jbox should consist of 2 hots (blk,red) a neutral and a ground. Share the neutrals and grounds and one hot to one plug the other plug gets remaining hot. If you ever sell the house just revert to original.
 

zalick

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Junk drawer never fails!
7C95FF4E-EE2A-420A-ACEE-F704D1900252.jpeg
I personally would NOT use this or any other adapter. They generally are not meant for permanent installation and they can be fire hazards when used permanently with higher amp draws. (Despite rating) Some threads on here and reef central showing these things melted. Might as well do it right.

Paul gave a good step by step. Also watch a you tube video. Swapping outlets is pretty simple and the right way to do it.(despite that little code thing)
 

SteveMM62Reef

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I’d replace the outlet for the Washer with a 20 Amp. GFCI Receptacle. Unless the Breaker for the Washer is a GFCI. If so use a 20 Amp. Duplex Receptacle. Note; that there is a difference between a 15 Amp. and a 20 Amp. Receptacle. Pull the Washer Plug, Plug a known working light into the Receptacle, turn the breaker off before changing out, and check to see if the light doesn’t work. I would watch several YouTube Videos on how to change a Receptacle out.
 

KStatefan

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ultimately, if it was me needing this in my house, I’d convert the dryer outlet to (2) ded 20a outlets and replace the breaker to a 2-pole 20a gfci breaker. The wiring within the jbox should consist of 2 hots (blk,red) a neutral and a ground. Share the neutrals and grounds and one hot to one plug the other plug gets remaining hot. If you ever sell the house just revert to original.
That seems like a lot of work to power a 1/2 amp booster pump.
 
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flyfisher2

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I didn't notice that there were 2 separate 120V outlets, completely missed that. Yes, it would be fine to switch the one for the dryer. A 120V dedicated dryer circuit should never be required. If a dryer is electric, it will need the 220V outlet. If it is gas, the electric is categorized as a small appliance which do not require dedicated outlets.

Since your washer only pulls a max of 10A it should be fine as is, as long as that splitter is rated for 15A. If you don't know the splitter rating, I'd replace it with a new one, they are cheap. Just keep in mind if you replace your washing machine you may need to change how you connect this. The easiest change would be to switch it from your washing machine to where your dryer plugs in.
Awesome! Sounds like a super easy fix and no alterations and I just confirmed the plug is 15A.
image.jpg

I’d replace the outlet for the Washer with a 20 Amp. GFCI Receptacle. Unless the Breaker for the Washer is a GFCI. If so use a 20 Amp. Duplex Receptacle. Note; that there is a difference between a 15 Amp. and a 20 Amp. Receptacle. Pull the Washer Plug, Plug a known working light into the Receptacle, turn the breaker off before changing out, and check to see if the light doesn’t work. I would watch several YouTube Videos on how to change a Receptacle out.
I’ve changed receptacles before. I just don’t want to be in violation of anything.
It seems we a torn here.
I want to do it correctly.
 

Paul B

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From the looks of it, that splitter is rated at no more than 15A. Did you verify your washing machine uses less than 15A?
You can't plug a 20 amp plug into a 15 amp receptacle or adapter. It won't fit.
20 amp outlets have that silly "T" slot in them. Unless they changed the code again when I wasn't looking. ;Sour

I have a few of these because I keep removing them from my house. Screw the code. :rolleyes:

IMG_4573.JPG
 

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